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Power Windows

stockvk

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I have a 98 VT Acclaim Series 1, which i have just installed power windows into. I purchased new relays for the doors from holden, and have power at both of them, but have no power to the Orange wire (with yellow stripe) behind the relay. I also have a low bcm fitted to car, but when I purchased windows got a mid bcm to go with them. Of course with no power to the orange wire, the switches dont have any power. Just wondering if anyone may have the answer,

stockvk
 

Not_An_Abba_Fan

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Something triggers my memory that the VT is negatively switched. If you have earthed the relay it won't work. I could be wrong about the switching.
 

Cobra30

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In a VY, ya need to fit a 20A circuit breaker to get power on that Orange/yellow wire - the location should be marked on the panel......... (a 20A fuse won't last very long)

It plugs in like a blade fuse under the steering column (those GMH circuit breakers have longer pins than a blade fuse).
Be careful if you buy an after market ciruit breaker because the one I bought (Narva - for memory) had short pins and needed to be extended to plug in).
 

stockvk

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Thanks for the help guys, found the problem, didnt see that I needed a circuit breaker for power ( what a d*ck), now 3 windows work, except drivers window. Get power to shut it, but no power to open the bloody thing. Any suggestions?
 

Cobra30

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You say there is power to shut the window - so the motor must be OK. The motor only gets a polarity change from the switch/BCM.

1. Those switches are known to play up. Get a multimeter/test light across the switch pins and make sure there is power with the switch in both directions.

2. The fault could also be in the BCM.
 
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stockvk

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Bought a brand new switch as the connections in old switch were a bit dodgey.
Thanks for that, who can check out the bcm? an auto elec, or holden? Have also run wires from a battery charger to window reg, and reg works fine, so must be bcm or dodgey wire
 
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Cobra30

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Wiring must all be OK if window works in one direction.
Sounds like the auto down timer in the BCM has died.

You could save some money if you weren't bothered with the auto down feature.
Trace the switch wire colours to the BCM.
Trace the door loom wire colours to the BCM.
Remove these wires from the BCM connectors and connect them together so that the switch controls the window reg motor directly - just like the rear doors.

Info here
 

stockvk

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Cobra,
Thanks heaps, good page with lots of handy info. Will give it a go tomorrow morning, as I work nights. Thanks again for all your help
 

ephect

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with the low series bcm there was no autodown timer.. follow the below to get the drivers window working.. this is for the VS, may be of use to u

Bypassing the BCM:

Basically what you need to do is look at the 2 plugs on the BCM.
In connector A, the 9 pin one, there is a blue/white wire on one corner - beside that is the green/black wire from the switch.

You need to cut that green/black wire.

Leave the stump in the connector of the BCM (so you can properly insulate it with tape/heatshrink) and on the end that dissappears into the loom, strip it & add about a 6" length of wire - solder & shrink the connection well.

Now head for the door harness. You should be able to spot it easily in the RH kick panel area up above the bonnet release - it will have a rubber sleeve over the wires in the pillar area, but this stops a few inches before the connector.
Locate that connector - it is a funny shape with 4 central larger terminals surrounded by smaller terminals on 3 sides.
You will find the green/orange wire underneath the black wire, and beside the blue/white wire in the door connector.
Cut the green orange wire about 2 inches away from the door connector on the body harness side of the plug.
Insulate the bit that goes back into the main dash harness.

Grab the little 2" bit of wire from the connector, strip it, solder it & heatshrink it to the wire you extended off the green/black wire.

The window will now work like the other 3, without auto down.
 
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