Project Phoenix - VR Grange tribute/replica

[someguy360]

Well today I planned to do:
* Oil change
* Trans temp gauge
* New throttle return spring
* Look for somewhere suitable to mount a catch can.


What I ended up doing:
Driving it out, washing it, putting it back away.

I hate winters in Adelaide, no motivation.

In other news, it's booked in for Roll Racing in August at the bend, it won't be fast but it will be fun and it will sound cool, and isn't that really all that matters.
Will be nice to be able to hear the secondaries open on the new throttle setup, it's near impossible to get to the point of opening them on the street unless you feel like a trip to impound.

That means I need to finally stop procrastinating and get around to fitting my LT1 valve springs, I'm pushing waaaaay too much lift through 200,000km old stock valve springs to feel comfortable doing repeat WOT passes.

 

[VN_SS_CM]

Installed my throttle body and man the idle is 2K rpm and hissing......what settings did you adjust in the tune?
Would you have a copy of your BIN file? I also installed a return spring and found this online which suggests a return spring....
https://product-arena.s3.us-west-1....ies/PCE138.1002/_Instructions/PCE138.1002.pdf
Thanks

 

[someguy360]

Installed my throttle body and man the idle is 2K rpm and hissing......what settings did you adjust in the tune?
Would you have a copy of your BIN file? I also installed a return spring and found this online which suggests a return spring....
https://product-arena.s3.us-west-1.amazonaws.com/ProcompElectronics/PCE138 - Throttle Bodies/PCE138.1002/_Instructions/PCE138.1002.pdf
Thanks

I had the same issue, if you haven't changed any IAC settings in the tune it will rev to the moon as the IAC will be too far open on this TB compared ot the factory one. Also take your IAC back out and make sure it hasn't got stuck/unwound, I found I needed to use the VT-VY V6 IAC which has a slightly larger pintle on it that doesn't get stuck in the IAC chamber and unwind the sensor.

You definately need a return spring on that throttle as it will just get stuck open when your driving, I just got one from bunnings for like $2 that has served me fine all year.

If you PM me your email address I can send you my bin file.

Mainly changes that need to be made:
* Desired steps at normal idle = 20 (factory is around 70 I think).
* Maximum steps threshold for park (120)
* Maximum steps threshold for drive (75)

The hissing is normal as the IAC chamber on these throttle bodies is open to the air cleaner housing compared to the OEM setup which has it sealed inside the intake.

Once you've got an air cleaner mounted on it you won't hear the IAC hiss.

Also make sure you've sealed off any unused vacuum ports, I didn't use the map port in the front as I draw my map readings from the intake manifold itself like the factory setup does so I made a blanking plate for it.

 

[VN_SS_CM]

I tried adjusting the steps and lets just say cold start was weird.....Thanks. Sent you a PM

 

[someguy360]

Spending my lockdown doing roll racing prep and some general upgrades.

Swapped my volt gauge out for a trans temp gauge, figured now I'm running a shift kit and a stall converter trans temps probably a bit more vital.

Installed a new oval air cleaner so I can reach the throttle linkages/lever from the engine bay now, the old round one completely blocked access.

No pic on this one but I'm setting up a sealed baffled catch can under neath the front bumper near the vacuum ball too as I've noticed a bit of oil build up in the intake manifold (easy to spot it with the dual plane compared to the bananas). I'm going to keep it running inline with the factory PCV system.

Hiding it under the car to keep the engine bay clean from clutter, I'm also thinking later in the year I'm going to delete the heater too so I can get rid of all the ugly heater hoses everywhere. I rarely use it as I don't drive the car in super bad weather anyway and we don't have roadworthies in SA.

I'm also thinking I'm going to relocate the battery to the boot then relocate the ABS module to the battery tray area and enclose it in a box to keep that hidden too as in my opinion those are the ugliest part of a VR/S engine bay and also makes it super hard to work on the drivers side of the engine.


Also practicing with my valve spring removal tool on one of my spare heads as proof of concept before doing it in the engine bay. Just waiting for the lockdown to end so I can grab my compressor back from the old man to keep the cylinders pressurised during the swap.

 

[Deuce]

Sport comp gauges look quite good compared to the stock gauges. I'm using z-series by autometer.
Great idea about ABS unit. They are ugly in that spot.
On another note, I really don't like those flexi radiator hoses like your top one. Have you tried searching for a replacement from a different vehicle? (I think diesel highlander top hose or something worked for me with COME TTB)

 

[Immortality]

I'm also thinking I'm going to relocate the battery to the boot then relocate the ABS module to the battery tray area and enclose it in a box to keep that hidden too as in my opinion those are the ugliest part of a VR/S engine bay and also makes it super hard to work on the drivers side of the engine.

I really want to do this too, just wonder how legal it is on a road car.

 

[someguy360]

I really want to do this too, just wonder how legal it is on a road car.

I've asked around with a few people in the eastern states who have roadworthies and haven't had a problem. As far as I know it just has to be there and function.

My concern is more for insurance than anything else, insurance companies are pretty touchy when it comes to brakes.

 

[someguy360]

On another note, I really don't like those flexi radiator hoses like your top one.

Haha yeah I don't like it either, it's on the list of things to do when I next mess with the cooling system.

When I delete the heater hoses I need to do the water pump too as I'm noticing a tiny weap from it so I'm gonna do it all at once and will probably source a hose then.

 

[someguy360]

Finished off the catch can yesterday, added some aeroflow filter foam into the baffles of the catch can to allow for better oil separation.

Bought a new alloy trans pan as the factory pan is to thin to properly tap into for the trans temp sensor, not bad quality for $100, it's decently thick alloy.