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Question on cooling system of VZ 6cyl.

greenacc

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The air bleed won’t remove the air though. It removes a tiny bit and leaves a large volume in there. The only way to remove the air so the system is working properly is to either vacuum fill or to bleed using a reservoir.

The system will continue to self bleed small/tiny amounts of air through the coolant bottle.
I don't believe that. If you bleed the system using the bleed screw/ or tube for a VE when there is full pressure in the system that pressure will be a lot higher than you will create with a filling reservoir. That's how I've been doing it the last 10 years and my system is always full and works perfectly.
 

Fu Manchu

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Fair point. Lots of different ways, like so many things in life.

On the VZ, when I first did it after I bought it, used the bleed screw and then the reservoir and had to add a lot of coolant as the car idled and heated. So each time since I haven't bothered.

I will be doing the job again soon, replacing heater tap, coolant sensor and water pump.
 

greenacc

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Heater tap, hmmmm that made me stop and think. Does the VE have a heater tap? (I know this is the VZ forum but still) I haven't seen one on the VE but if it's there somewhere it must be time to change it. I've experienced the sudden cloud of steam that happens when the heater tap explodes on my old VS. Always in the worst possible place, on the motorway in the morning peak hour..:eek::rolleyes::cool:
Lucky the ecotecs could survive anything.
 

Fu Manchu

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Heater tap is on my VZ.
The VE does not have one.
 

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The air bleed won’t remove the air though. It removes a tiny bit and leaves a large volume in there. The only way to remove the air so the system is working properly is to either vacuum fill or to bleed using a reservoir.

The system will continue to self bleed small/tiny amounts of air through the coolant bottle.
Not True I had done a Holden Cruze a few weeks back bloody nephew decided to replace his recovery tank ( surge tank ) as it had hairline fractures , anyway without allowing the air to escape made the top of radiator bubble like made when it got up to temperature, coolant cant rise to the top until the air is pushed out that's why you must open it up or you wont be able to have a full radiator, it wont bleed out because this designed wont allow it to bleed itself the hoses ant top and bottom, I got almost a extra 2L in by removing the air bleeder, no more bubbling and runs perfect, Shane probably right that you wont get all the air out but it makes a hell of a deafferents.
 

Fu Manchu

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You might have missed something there
 
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