RCA conversion by ASR for Series 2

[Woollie]

Hi all,

I have also put this in the audio section but no answers yet.

I was talking to Greg from ASR Audio last night about modifying my IQ system to have RCA outputs. He still hasn't done one of these yet so I might be the guinea pig here. I'm worried about doing it because it is a new car and I didn't want anything to go wrong.

Can anyone tell me what the worst that could happen is???

I was just going to use an LC2 converter but I know this conversion will definitely give me the best outcome. I like the fact that he also creates a remote wire as well.

Any thought?

 

[one_and_only2004]

The LC idea will work, but it will sound like ****. I had one in mine before the RCA mod and ill never use one again.

Worse case scenario is your head unit blows up, igniting fuel from a leaky fuel line close by and you die a terrible death driving to the shops.

A more likely scenario is Greg will do a fantastic job and you'll have an awesome stereo.

 

[davey g-force]

Don't worry too much mate. Greg is a professional and nothing will go wrong.

He's done 100's of Series 1 stereos and I cant imagine the Series 2 would be that different..

 

[Woollie]

Worse case scenario is your head unit blows up, igniting fuel from a leaky fuel line close by and you die a terrible death driving to the shops.

lol :rofl2:

 

[raff]

I have used a LC6i LOC on my series 2 SS and very impressed by the results. No noise or issues and provides a remote out to turn on amps through signal sensing. Saves modding the head unit and voiding any warranty issues should problems arise.

 

[VTSS350]

I agree. I have used the LC6i and also a Focal amp with a line level converter built in. Both did a fantastic job.

 

[one_and_only2004]

I had an LC6i - was **** compared to the RCA mod.

 

[Woollie]

Had the conversion done last night, I am officially the guinee pig. All went well except for the fact some of the dash panels are a little different to the series 1.

Anyway, I installed my amp today and I'm getting some serious turn off thump about a minute after the car has been switched off. Greg said it could be where he attached his remote wire.

If I move it to the brown wire under the glovebox will this get rid of this thump I am having? Greg seems to think that the remote wire he created is powering off too slow.

 

[timj]

My guess is he has picked a wire that stays powered up for a min or two, if you lock the car at night time you will notice the internal dash lighting will stay on for quiet a while. Not sure about the brown wire you speak of but really you need to find a wire in the fuse board that powers off as soon as you remove the key or open the door of the vehicle after removing the key from the ignition. If that makes sence, sorry been on the turps tonight

 

[UFO]

tap into something like the windscreen wiper motor wire... powered when key is turned on, powered off the second key is turned off... no delay.