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Replacing rear rotors and review of Remsa brake pads

Ron Burgundy

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I am changing all rotors and pads tomorrow.

Anything I need to be aware of before I pull the rear rotors off ?
I am not sure how electronic park brake works and whether I need to do anything different to the usual process ...
 

Smitty

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.. have the handbrake OFF
before you pull the rear rotors
(like a manual handbrake)
 

Z31na

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I remember an Auto Tech night saying something about always fully disabling an electric brake when working with rear brakes. Day job is selling the parts not being a mechanic so I don't remember specifics from those classes. Plus my siblings have "borrowed" all my books. If I see them tomorrow I'll get the books back and put up what they say about the park brake.
 

Skylarking

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@Ron Burgundy the VF workshop manual doesn’t make any special statements on page 2868 “Rear brake rotor replacement” but obviously it would be prudent to release the hand brake prior to removing the rotor and then also checking park brake shoe and drum wear and correct adjustment before installing the new rotor. But handbrake is now EPB :rolleyes:

So, on page 3137 “Park Brake Adjustment” it is stated to disable the park brake cable adjuster (it’s on page 3122) and do some checks and adjust the shoe to 189.6mm before refitting they rotor and enable the park brake cable adjuster (on page 3123).

Probably worth getting a copy of the VF workshop manual if you haven’t already done so.. a link exists within a thread on the VF forum ;)

Ps: obviously you have a copy of the workshop manual judging by your post :D And don’t judge what should be done by what shortcuts are made in the commercial world in the pursuit of the $$. We enthusiast should have higher standards and should check runout, index, etc... to be sure to be sure :cool:
 
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Ron Burgundy

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@Ron Burgundy the VF workshop manual doesn’t make any special statements on page 2868 “Rear brake rotor replacement” but obviously it would be prudent to release the hand brake prior to removing the rotor and then also checking park brake shoe and drum wear and correct adjustment before installing the new rotor. But handbrake is now EPB :rolleyes:

So, on page 3137 “Park Brake Adjustment” it is stated to disable the park brake cable adjuster (it’s on page 3122) and do some checks and adjust the shoe to 189.6mm before refitting they rotor and enable the park brake cable adjuster (on page 3123).

Probably worth getting a copy of the VF workshop manual if you haven’t already done so.. a link exists within a thread on the VF forum ;)

Ps: obviously you have a copy of the workshop manual judging by your post :D And don’t judge what should be done by what shortcuts are made in the commercial world in the pursuit of the $$. We enthusiast should have higher standards and should check runout, index, etc... to be sure to be sure :cool:
Sweet. Thanks for that mate. Bummer about the hassle with park brake adjustment.
Might do the the fronts only and take it Holden to sort out rear rotors...
 

Skylarking

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^ don’t let EPB adjustment frighten you... you can’t stuff it up any more than some (un?)trained Holden tech. And you won’t get grease smeared within the interior of your pride and joy ;)
 

lmoengnr

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Does anyone actually do indexing/runout procedure when replacing the rotors ?
No need to index when replacing rotors.
If I'm removing and refitting the same rotors, I'll mark a stud with a texta, and mark the rotor next to the stud.
Just so it goes back in the same position.
I use my Mark 1 eyeball to check runout, if visible run out, I then set up a magnetic base dial indicator.
 

MattSAU2XR8

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Indexing can be a good thing if your are not re-using the same rotors.
Point of doing it is that if the existing hub, or the new disc has runout then it may be possible to find a spot where they cancel out
As an example I had brake shudder problems on a G6E about 5 years back when I upgraded the front 298 mm discs to 321mm
- Original factory PBR discs had no runout on my dial gauge when removed
- Replacement RDA slotteds had about 7/100 mm and shuddered terribly with hard (Ferodo DS) pads
- So then bought PRB slotteds which also had similar runout and again shuddered, obviously less QC that they used to supply OE to Ford
- Then put in some Bendix Ultimate pads banking on their abrasive nature to machine up the discs, which they did, although took about 10,000 kms of commuting
- And then finally fitted up a set of DBA 4000 series non slotted which had only 1/100 mm of runout so didn't even bother indexing
- Subsequently bought DBA street series non slotted for my VE SS with Brembos and again only about 1/100 mm of runout

Point of all this from my point of view was that a lot of new rotors are well outside tolerance when purchased, at least around 3 to 5 years ago, and I had a better run with DBA than RDA. Possibly also that if a slotted rotor is out of true its probably easier for a slot to catch on the edge of the pad...
 

Ron Burgundy

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Indexing can be a good thing if your are not re-using the same rotors.
Point of doing it is that if the existing hub, or the new disc has runout then it may be possible to find a spot where they cancel out
As an example I had brake shudder problems on a G6E about 5 years back when I upgraded the front 298 mm discs to 321mm
- Original factory PBR discs had no runout on my dial gauge when removed
- Replacement RDA slotteds had about 7/100 mm and shuddered terribly with hard (Ferodo DS) pads
- So then bought PRB slotteds which also had similar runout and again shuddered, obviously less QC that they used to supply OE to Ford
- Then put in some Bendix Ultimate pads banking on their abrasive nature to machine up the discs, which they did, although took about 10,000 kms of commuting
- And then finally fitted up a set of DBA 4000 series non slotted which had only 1/100 mm of runout so didn't even bother indexing
- Subsequently bought DBA street series non slotted for my VE SS with Brembos and again only about 1/100 mm of runout

Point of all this from my point of view was that a lot of new rotors are well outside tolerance when purchased, at least around 3 to 5 years ago, and I had a better run with DBA than RDA. Possibly also that if a slotted rotor is out of true its probably easier for a slot to catch on the edge of the pad...
Thanks mate that all makes sense.
I am removing stock rotors.
The new rotors ara DBA 4000 series slotted rotors.
 
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