ryco oil filters

[Immortality]

not all oils are equal in quality, same goes for oil filters. personally, i won't be using fram filters again. they use carboard ends in the filter that are prone to failure.

i've have never personally suffered from a oil filter leaking and i only hand tighten em, i oil the seal (i remove it from the filter and cover the entire rubber seal) but i certainly require a filter wrench to get em off. over hte years i've used ryco, valvoline and fram

with regards to longer oil change intervals, increased sump capacity is part of the answer, so is increased oil quality and so is engine design. another great influence would be the operating conditions of the engine/vehicle another greatly overlooked issue is that oil companies would like you to change the the oil on a more regular basis (how often do you change your oil and what is the reason for that oil change, maybe because thats what your dad did?), engine manufactureres test there engines with what ever they specify and say that the oil is good for X Km's, however, how do you know that the oil is actually bad before you change it. personaly i don't mind changing the oil on a more regular basis as i get it cheap. oil testing is a good solution, however until it's cheaper to test oil then it is to drain and replace the oil i don't see that happening.

just to throw another issue into the mix, did you know that during a cold start, a good portion of the oil bypasses the oil filter and goes straight to the engine. when a engine sits, any particle contamination present in the oil will tend to settle at the bottom of the sump, so on a cold start, this is the oil that the pick-up gets first, doesn't go through the filter and goes straight to your bearings.........

just a note of interest, back in the day, brockies race cars ran a remote, twin filter setup. a race car that gets clean oil after every race meet, if not after every race, yet they wanted maximum oil filtration

 

[vxcalais_01]

The anti-drain back valves are meant to hold oil in the filter for the start up, but yes, that is why majority of wear in an engine occurs at star tup. Any oil available, even a 0w or 5w oil is too thick at start up to significantly reduce wear on 'start up' compared to a thicker 15w or 20w. Seeing as we cant do anything about start up, 'Warm up' is the period where we can significantly reduce wear and need to concentrate. The 0/5w, 10ws are better than this than a thicker start up obviously, then evens as the oil thins towards operating temp. Also to protect the engine for that fraction of a second there is not oil flow is the anti wear additives, Zinc, Moly, Boron, di-ester etc. It is not only at start up where there is no oil, in the bearings the same situation applies. Look at water, if you put your hand in slowly, if goes in effortlessly, but when you smack it quickly, goes harder. Apparently the oil turns to solid bearings and pins areas, so these anti wear kick in.

They still wont stop your engine from seizing. One important thing i have learnt, is i always thought that the oil i saw sitting on engine parts was important and that oil lubricated the engine. Thinking this oil was good at startup. If you look on ebay the fantastic inside combustion engine camera showing how the oil flows through all the parts etc, its like that lucas oil wheel at supercheap, its the actual oil flow not the mere presence of oil that lubricates the engine. Like using water to lubricate the saw while cutting concrete etc. If that was the case it would just splash off all the time. So the more oil you can have flowing at start up is very important, not to stop all wear, but its cumulative, all adds up in the end to stop that crank or cam bearing, rings etc from going during the life of the engine. The oil sitting on engine parts reduces corrosion, keeps anti wear additives in place when needed, cleans the engine parts (detergents), and if it has ester base oil, aids with the attraction of the oil to stick to metal parts when flowing. Its amazing how fast the crank spins, yet oil still manages to stay on it.

It has also been recommended on another commodore forum by a very knowledgeable gentleman that one should not fill the new oil filter with fresh oil as there are no guidelines or requirements for the new oil in a bottle to be free come certain contaminants. If you look on the BITOG forum, the number of virgin oil analysis of engine oils, there are some contaminants that can find their way in. I still put some in (i don't fill it) not for start up, but more to wet the filter element and wipe some on the filter seat gasket.

 

[Michelson4301]

Unfortunately the ZDDP additive has been removed from 99% of oils sold over the counter in Australia due to emissions.

 

[vxcalais_01]

Unfortunately the ZDDP additive has been removed from 99% of oils sold over the counter in Australia due to emissions.

No it has not been removed, it has only been reduced........show me 1 oil that has it completely removed ? Penrite may have an Enviro version i seen, but it would still have some in it. Its been reduced the the thinner grade fuel economy SM rated oils(low saps) and CJ-4 diesels. Other additives are used to compensate, Boron, Moly, Graphite etc. They do not completely remove it, if they did you would not be able to use it. :thumbsup:

ENVIRO PLUS - Penrite Oil

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/1Enviro + Engine Oils.pdf

See the data table on the bottom, see the Phosphate Zinc mass ? Compare it to this one

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/pis_pdfs/PI_HPR 10.pdf

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/85_ZINC_ DIESEL_OILS_AND_API.pdf (This is some good clear info on it)

THis one actually shows different levels in each oil, this one made me understand why some Penrite oils are more expensive than others, Zinc is expensive.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/149 LATEST ZINC LEVELS.pdf

Good luck !

 

[danja]

So seeing as we've branched into oil additives, does anyone know much about anti-friction additives like Liqui-Moly:
LIQUI-MOLY Fuel and Oil Treatments & Additives

Or this Roil Gold stuff:
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/gsl-rallysport/59206-roil-gold-metal-conditioner.html

Does it work as advertised? Is there a catch?

 

[Reaper]

ffs - is this still going??? Whatever happened to the group hug?

Reaper

 

[vxcalais_01]

So seeing as we've branched into oil additives, does anyone know much about anti-friction additives like Liqui-Moly:
LIQUI-MOLY Fuel and Oil Treatments & Additives

Or this Roil Gold stuff:
http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/gsl-rallysport/59206-roil-gold-metal-conditioner.html

Does it work as advertised? Is there a catch?

Liqui Moly is excellent stuff, i have a spare tin sitting somewhere. Auto-RX and LC-20 are the only others worth using. You will see a common phrase when it comes to additives " Oil already has it so you dont need additives !". Yes this is true, but Oil does not have cleaners as effective as Auto-RX and LC-20, and an increase in Moly can be a good thing. These additives have been endorsed by Dyson Labs, offshoot of the biggest oil tester in the U.S.A. The liqui moly is good, but you use it full can once and from then on just half or so each change to maintain the coating on the engine parts. I would use this Liqui Moly with a cheaper $25 and under mineral oil, or when i have just changed a intake or head gasket with possible foreign contaminates etc. Some oils already have Moly, some have none, its is truely amazing stuff, but so is Zinc and Esters and Boron even better. Vanlube is also excellent,Shell, Oronite, Lubrizol etc, these are the suppliers that Mobil, Shell, Castrol etc buy their additives from.

http://www.rtvanderbilt.com/news_19.htm