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Short Trips - Extra Care?

Jesterarts

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I'm just wondering why you'd be running 10W-50?

Specs say 10W-30 so a multi grade oil up to 50 is pretty thick.

If anything one would think that a thinner oil like 5W-30 or 5W-40 would be better for cold start & shorter run applications.

Just a thought ....

sorry, i meant to say I use 10-60W

10-30 might be fine when the engine is new, but after it's run in alot of guys switch to a 10-60 or so as it's thicker and workes better when the engine is warm.

Plus the 10-30w recommendation also comes from an economics and fuel consumption aspect. A 10-30W will give getter fuel economy than a 10-60W but the 10-60W will protect better at temp.

Not sure if I would want to go down to a 5W... that's pretty thin... And since with time and engine wear tolerances INCREASE there would be no reason to go below manufacturer spec.
 

RiCeY

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Idling the car to warm it up isnt recommended as this takes the longest. Driving straight away with light throttle warms the car up the quickest and is the best method.

As for thicker oil, if the car has been looked after (serviced correctly) all its life it shouldnt need it, clearances dont open up so dramatically over 100,000kms or so to warrant an oil that thick. My LS1 has done 170,000kms and I still use 10/30 and it still runs as quiet as it did when it was new.
 

IPCOlsenVZ

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after it's run in alot of guys switch to a 10-60 or so as it's thicker and workes better when the engine is warm.
Works better in what way? Based on your situation the vehicle wont reach operating temperature.

Plus the 10-30w recommendation also comes from an economics and fuel consumption aspect.
Proof? So FPV's v8 spec for 5w20 comes soley from a fuel consumption aspect?


Not sure if I would want to go down to a 5W... that's pretty thin.
When that part of the grade is relevant it still has a higher viscosity than your 10W60 at 100C so I don't see how its 'pretty thin'. Graph it. Graph your oils

And since with time and engine wear tolerances INCREASE there would be no reason to go below manufacturer spec.
I do. I run 0W40 or 5w30 in a 93 Lancer with 200k kms. 0w20 in a 2010 focus (Aussie spec for 5w30) and in a 2010 CR-V (Aussie spec 0W30-15W40). Did a a trip to Brissy in the CR-V fully loaded, wouldn't have run anything else in it. Use 0w40 in the VZ, would loose sleep if it had anything else in it. My used oil analysis saw it was fit for use. M1 0W40

Have a look through the hundreds of UOAs and see how many use low viscosity and their results. They may not be best indicator for wear but they are something to look at. These are some highlights: Honda 20,000kms 0w-20 and 0W-30 Honda S2000 63,238kms w/bypass.

Some manufactures, Ford, Toyota, Honda and Hyundai have 5W20 as their main grade in the US. Where are the masses of failed motors due to the viscosity?

Not sure why operating temp viscosity of Xw60 is so important to you, taxi's last 500k+ kms because they are kept at operating temp. Its getting there which causes most wear.

At the end of the day use what ever makes you sleep at night.
 

Jesterarts

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Works better in what way? Based on your situation the vehicle wont reach operating temperature.

Based on my situation my vehicle won't reach operating temp MOST of the time. But sometimes it will. So why wouldn't I use an oil that will work in all situations rather than some situations?

Proof? So FPV's v8 spec for 5w20 comes soley from a fuel consumption aspect?

Never said soley did I? Please don't try to put works in my mouth. Aside from that, it's fairly common knowledge that oil recommendations are based on fuel efficiency and emissions perspective. For someone who seems to think they know alot about this stuff I am surprised you didn't know this.

When that part of the grade is relevant it still has a higher viscosity than your 10W60 at 100C so I don't see how its 'pretty thin'. Graph it.

This is incorrect. I suggest you look at your graphs again.

5W-30 @ 100C = 10.4 cSt
10W-60 @ 100C = 15.6 cSt

Or am I interpretting the data wrong?

Not sure why operating temp viscosity of Xw60 is so important to you, taxi's last 500k+ kms because they are kept at operating temp. Its getting there which causes most wear

Because this is what was recommended to me for my particular engine setup at the time by someone in the know about oils. Now, my circumstances are changing and I am looking for advice again. I thought that would have been quite evident in this thread.

I definately see where you are coming from sincemy car will not be mainly doing short trips, but I don't get why in your opinion it's fine to go below manufacturer spec but not above? In particlar with the "W" grade since a car is ALWAYS going to be cold at some point while may not reach temp in all cases.
 
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IPCOlsenVZ

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Based on my situation my vehicle won't reach operating temp MOST of the time. But sometimes it will. So why wouldn't I use an oil that will work in all situations rather than some situations?


Never said soley did I? Please don't try to put works in my mouth. Aside from that, it's fairly common knowledge that oil recommendations are based on fuel efficiency and emissions perspective. For someone who seems to think they know alot about this stuff I am surprised you didn't know this.


This is incorrect. I suggest you look at your graphs again.

5W-30 @ 100C = 10.4 cSt
10W-60 @ 100C = 15.6 cSt

Or am I interpretting the data wrong?

I never quoted that you said ‘solely’ I simply asked it in a question hence the question mark. I never stated I know a lot, I know nothing. I was asking questions so I (and others) could gain an understanding from your perspective which is why during that post I did not state you make any changes, I simply wrote it for thought and discussion (not trolling).

When the 5w part of the grade is relevant (eg Edge 5w30 - 71.4cSt @ 40C) it has a viscosity that this thicker than your 10w60 at 100C (24cSt @ 100C) so I was wondering why you said 5w is “pretty thin”?

I definately see where you are coming from sincemy car will not be mainly doing short trips, but I don't get why in your opinion it's fine to go below manufacturer spec but not above? In particlar with the "W" grade since a car is ALWAYS going to be cold at some point while may not reach temp in all cases.

It’s not my opinion to go lower. My opinion is to use the manufactures recommendation or use whatever makes you sleep at night, and in my case it’s the latter. I was simply pointing out that going below may not be the end of the world for the motor which is why I subbed in links and examples to once again provoke thought.

Side ‘thought’ note: will the battery’s reliability be reduced by continual short strips?
 

Jesterarts

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I never quoted that you said ‘solely’ I simply asked it in a question hence the question mark. I never stated I know a lot, I know nothing. I was asking questions so I (and others) could gain an understanding from your perspective which is why during that post I did not state you make any changes, I simply wrote it for thought and discussion (not trolling).

When the 5w part of the grade is relevant (eg Edge 5w30 - 71.4cSt @ 40C) it has a viscosity that this thicker than your 10w60 at 100C (24cSt @ 100C) so I was wondering why you said 5w is “pretty thin”?



It’s not my opinion to go lower. My opinion is to use the manufactures recommendation or use whatever makes you sleep at night, and in my case it’s the latter. I was simply pointing out that going below may not be the end of the world for the motor which is why I subbed in links and examples to once again provoke thought.

Side ‘thought’ note: will the battery’s reliability be reduced by continual short strips?

Yeah, the battery may cause be grief I think. It's already not the happiest sometimes on my 17km to and from trips. So 4km will probably kill it.
 
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