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Standard ecotec v6 to s/c v6

Corey 'Fishman'

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Mar 9, 2017
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Vx commodore S. 2001
V6 in my Commodore and I want to just upgrade to supercharged V6 how much of a head **** is it gonna be and can anybody give me any ideas on what I have to do first time doing this
 

Husky

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VXII L67 Berlina Wagon and VEIISSV M6 Sportswagon
V6 in my Commodore and I want to just upgrade to supercharged V6 how much of a head **** is it gonna be and can anybody give me any ideas on what I have to do first time doing this

It's a pretty straight forward conversion. Best bet is to get a donor car. You'll need the engine, transmission (Or use you trans but you need the L67 flex plate and stall), Transmission cooler (if not already fitted on your car) and the engine loom. You'll also need a Memcal (The mace one will clip onto the exisiting N/A computer so you don't need a tune). Lastly you need a fuel pump, as the L67 pump is a 2 stage and pump much more fuel then the N/A one (More than the v8 as well). A lot of people use aftermarket pumps but I had mine wired to always run the faster speed so I can just fir an L67 pump into the ecotec fuel pump harness.
 
H

harrop.senator

Guest
I used a standard l36 loom in mine and just lengthened the drivers side to go around the supercharger. I also then repinned it to an auto set of plugs so i could use the pcm from a vy as vu has a bin file pcm and doesn't run a chip. The only difference between the harnesses is the length of the drivers side and the boost cut off solenoid but most people delete that anyway.

If you're looking at doing it pretty stockish on a street motor I find the top end conversion works really well with the slightly higher compression ratio of the l36 bottom end. It's not as strong but has been done plenty of times.

Theirs a few cheap mods you can do to them but most are pretty expensive. I have a reground camshaft in mine which is a rip off of the crow stage 1 and cost me $170 and i retained the stock length pushrods. I then used an l36 timing chain set up as the gear is 2 degrees more retarded so it pushes the powerband further into the rpm range.

Also the mace insulators and smaller pulley make a good noticable difference.

I have a spare l67 flex plate sitting around if you get stuck but i dno if worth posting.
Do you plan on keeping it auto or manual?

It's quite an easy swap and with a repair manual some patience and mechanical knowledge you'll easily be able to get through it.
 
H

harrop.senator

Guest
oh also I went straight to a warlboro 255 pump as mines in a ute and couldn't use the l67 pump they're only $160 new and will flow more then you'll ever need.
 

Corey 'Fishman'

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Joined
Mar 9, 2017
Messages
8
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Location
Wallan, Victoria
Members Ride
Vx commodore S. 2001
It's a pretty straight forward conversion. Best bet is to get a donor car. You'll need the engine, transmission (Or use you trans but you need the L67 flex plate and stall), Transmission cooler (if not already fitted on your car) and the engine loom. You'll also need a Memcal (The mace one will clip onto the exisiting N/A computer so you don't need a tune). Lastly you need a fuel pump, as the L67 pump is a 2 stage and pump much more fuel then the N/A one (More than the v8 as well). A lot of people use aftermarket pumps but I had mine wired to always run the faster speed so I can just fir an L67 pump into the ecotec fuel pump harness.
Thanks for the useful info and the heads up you're a good man
 
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