Starting problems VL manual

[Holdfast]

Yeah, well here's an update.

Got the NRMA bloke out to have a look.

He thumped the fuel pump like a rhino, did no good.

Then he reckon maybe I had no fuel, I did.

Then he squeezes the fuel,line to check I had pressure, yep pressure.

Then I explain about how I have to clutch start it to get it goin and all the parts I've replaced.

Then he chucks on the battery leads to see if it was battery probs. I have a new battery, so then he checks the dissy cap and rotor. Rotor is tight, cap is newish but he cleaned all the points.

he's a nice bloke and doin a great job so far.

Then he gets me crankin it over for a few more times and says it's tryin to run backwards.

He gets in and puts the foot on the throttle but she wont start, meanwhile I'm watch her cough and splutter and sh'e tryin to run backwards again.

Then he lightly touches the throttle abd she goes.

he reckons it could be the crank angle sensor but says take it to an auto elec and get it checked out on a computer.

As an after thought just now vl rad mentioned about the ignition barrell. Well last week it was sticking pretty bad so I bunged in some WD. As you push the key forward it wouldn't flick back as normal but now it's ok.

So that's all I've got for you fellas. I have a new spare Crank Angle sensor so do you reckon I should put it in or what?

 

[Holdfast]

Thanks vlrad and bucket for your latest comments and thanks everyone for your help so far.

Bucket, I've left the ignition on for over ten seconds until the fuel pump has stopped that noise.


The cold crank is the same as the hot crank except that when she's been running for awhile (reached operating temp)and I turn her off she'll start again no worries.

it's only when she's cooled right down that I can't start her again :thumbsup:

Cheers Holdfast

 

[Holdfast]

She still wont kick over :b:

She nearly does but just doesn't get there

 

[vlrad]

WD40 and wriggle the airflow meter connector - make sure it's on properly -- I say this because my car won't start today and the airflow plug was not connected properly.

The other thing is the dizzy cap I'm using is a little corroded.

The other thing is that I changed a few components and have forgot to erase memory on computer.

Over the last few months - I should have printed the advice out and gone and done the tests on the car - instead I read and read and thought and thought and didn't keep at the car.

For example I checked the timing - it was 2.3 notches advanced at 700rpm - I thought yep this works and went on to drop the tank (why cause it had to be something else I thought) I should have asked myself what is the timing meant to do with revs. Answer advance with revs. If I had used the timing light when I was having trouble with ignition then I could have seen that the timing was retarding due to the crap black (instead of silver) crank angle sensor.

If my engine wouldn't crank then I would ask myself is the coil getting the charge it needs when the starter is being turned. I would look the wiring diagram up and see what should be 12volts on the coil?? Then I would measure it with the car running and then when the engine was cold. I would then think - maybe the power transistor and/or the coil are not bolted cleanly to the engine. Since this is a big heat area on the engine maybe when the engine is hot the transistor earths a bit better.

 

[vlrad]

read all the postings in your thread - I think you could remove airfilter to see if you are choking the air supply off. Only keep airfilter out for test - put back in asap as dust will root your engine.

When the engine first starts is there a little bit of vapour coming from the exhaust?

 

[vlrad]

I'd hold off from doing too much work with cas and other non-starter specific things - if you post bucket with more details of what its doing he may be able to help - he diagnosed my engine problems - just took a while for me to stay focused on the problem and describe it enough. I say this because I replaced every component on the car when the first component I suspected (isolated) was the culprit

 

[Holdfast]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>When the engine first starts is there a little bit of vapour coming from the exhaust?<<<<<<<<<<<<<

Yes there is quite a bit, well that's what the road service bloke said.

Thanks vlrad;-)

yeah, I'm hanging in there and I'll do what you say. I'll have to check everything is tight etc. I'll retighten the Power transistor and reset the Control module.

Glad I've got a hill at my place It makes clutch starting so much easier.

Regards Holdfast

 

[vlrad]

Sounds like too much fuel compared with spark. If you crank the engine without fuse 3 (stop the fuel being pumped) this will tell you if the car was too much fuel and not enough spark. The first few cranks nothing - then run for about 10 seconds and the fuel runs out.

 

[Bucket]

Are you getting a code for the CAS at all on the computer?

BTW you arent chewing water in radiator at all?

ok try this one, when sitting for a while or cold as it may be, remove the coil to dizzy lead, then remove all the plugs, now keep and eye on the hole the plug was in, see if fuel shoots out when you start it... possible injectors leaking out through the end... maybe.

Pull each plug you can see off one by one, including the CAS, scratch each of the male terminals with a razor blade or really small flat blade screw driver and if any connections are lose, close the femlale conn a little to make a good contact.

You have got a good one ill give you that.

 

[Holdfast]

Ok, thanks for staying with me on this fellas :thumbsup:

I'll do all you say tomorrow.

>>>>>>>>>BTW you arent chewing water in radiator at all?<<<<<<<<<<

Na, the radiators good and I only put a drop in every month or so. She doesn't drink water at all.

I'll re check the codes right now 5:50PM and let you know what they are.

I'll be back soon