storking a vr v6

[wayvr]

be better of getting the whole motor ?

 

[wayvr]

how much would the stage 3 shift kit and rebuild be on the standard gear box

 

[wayvr]

so all i need to do is buy the new engine from c.o.m.e put that in
rebuild the gear box
do the lsd
put stallie in
and they tow it to get dyno?tune.. will it be drive able when he rebuild gearbox and new motor goes in it .. and does the gear box gear ratio need tobe changed? and the diffs .. but when i put the dif in a can not drive it that right?

 

[wayvr]

do i need to chang the gear ratios on the diff and gear box or just put them in as they are?

 

[sircruisealotVS]

so all i need to do is buy the new engine from c.o.m.e put that in
rebuild the gear box
do the lsd
put stallie in
and they tow it to get dyno?tune.. will it be drive able when he rebuild gearbox and new motor goes in it .. and does the gear box gear ratio need tobe changed? and the diffs .. but when i put the dif in a can not drive it that right?

ok, the stallie is essentially a higher rpm torque converter, which is part of the transmission and will be taken care of when the trans is rebuilt.
the reason i say you'd tow it to a dyno tuner is simply because the engine wont run very well at all on a stock tune once the new stroker engine is put in. it might start and run, but probably wouldnt be advisable to drive.
if you were to buy the complete engine ($9k) from c.o.m.e. that comes with the tune you would need and the engine is already run-in on the dyno.
not sure what you mean by transmission ratio needing to be changed, just forget about that.
the diff swap would not affect you being able to drive the car, the only thing needed to get the car running properly once all parts are changed (engine, trans and diff) is a suitable tune.
if you were to get a different gear ratio for the diff - say 3.7, your speedo would be inacurate, but the car would be perfectly drivable.

 

[wayvr]

so when i get my box rebuilt with the stallie and the 3 stage shift kit when i give it to the place to get rebuilt would he no how do it all like with the stallie at the right rmp? and how much would that be .... and when i buy the diff and who ever puts that in would they no the perfect ratio for it .. do i tell hem that the motor will get stroked and what not .. i will prob do gearbox , then diff then motor most prob and do i need to take it to a specialish gearbox rebuilder and just a normal machanic can but the motor in and diff or what would be he best to do .. thanks for the help again and a will prob have to get the speedo calerbrated

 

[sircruisealotVS]

when you get the trans done the builder will (if he's good) find out about your engine, then put all the specs onto a program which works out the best stallie you should get for your application and he'll recommend what do to.
the diff is not the same, there is no perfect ratio, its all down to what the car is used for and what sort of ratio you want. if you were to get say 4.11's the car would be reving very high on the highway, using alot of fuel - but it would have very quick standstill accleration.
most people go for a happy medium between not reving too high at over 100'k/hr but still having good acceleration, so something like a 3.7 is a popular choice.
i personally would do everything at once if i was you, if you can afford that.
it would save on some labour and also have everything finished ready to be dyno tuned - which is the last thing you'd do after everything else.
so i would take your car to your mechanic, get him to take the engine and trans out, send the engine to c.o.m.e. and the trans to a trans specialist workshop. then while waiting for those to come back you could have the diff installed. once the engine and trans are back from their rebuilds you chuck everything back in and your sweet to go.

 

[wayvr]

i thought it was best to buy a new engine and cheaper then doing mine up ...? how long would it take to recieve my engine ? i emailed c.o.m.e and they said a stallie at 2200 i was going to do the gearbox and diff at the same time so my car would still be drive able then do the engine so i would not be wateing on the engine if h box and diff was all in .. then get the egine and then they could be swaped or my one put back in .. the car will run fine with just the gearbox rebuild and the new diff and the stock engine ?

 

[wayvr]

4.2 litre Holden VN-VR V6 S.T-3 EFI Stroker engine. (Normally aspirated)

ENGINE FEATURES

• Heads are fully rebuilt with original size valves. They are fully ported to our S.T-3 specification with additional chamber work to maximise air flow potential. Fitted with bronze valve guides, 3 angle valve seats, chambers equalised to a final compression ratio of 9.5:1. New LT-1 valve springs and chrome moly retainers fitted to suit the camshaft grind used in this combo. Stock rocker gear is used in this combination and is more than adequate for the application.
• Your original block is bored and torque plate honed. Decks are machined to square to main tunnels. New cam bearings and brass welsh plugs fitted. New oil pump gears are fitted, new balance shaft bushes and bearings are installed. A new COME cam billet is ground to our CSBR-416 or CSBR-523 profile depending on desired power level and degree of daily driveability. OEM lifters are serviced and retained or replaced if required.
• A new COME nodular cast iron Stroker crank, forged “I” beam 4340 steel conrods and cast hyperuetectic pistons are fitted. The complete assembly is fully balanced and a new Powerbond harmonic balancer is fitted.
• Engine fully assembled with new King rod and main bearings. ACL gasket set, moly piston rings.
• Your original fuel injectors are ultrasonically cleaned and flow matched. The complete engine is Dyno run in and all computer programming is done in “real time” to suit your specific engine. No further tuning is necessary. Engine is supplied with the matching “real time” program.
• This engine combo is based on you supplying your original VN (Series 2 only) or VP, VR 3.8 litre EFI engine complete for us to build to S.T-3 specs. Power output is a minimum of 190kw and 270ft.lbs torque in a great drive every day package that is still streetable in all applications.
• A typical VN Commodore with this engine should have the best possible exhaust system fitted including extractors and a top flowing single system to maximise results. This combination works best with upgraded diff ratio (3.45:1) and 2200 hi stall converter if maximum acceleration is the goal.
• Performance potential is easily high 13’s or low 14’s over the ¼ mile. The final result will depend on the car model and hence weight of car. Heavier models will be marginally slower due to greater weight but can be improved to similar potential with lower 3.7:1 diff ratio upgrades.

this is what they replied back to me 2 point has the stallie and the last one has the diff ratio

 

[wayvr]

so at the end of th day i should get a KAAZ diff with a ratio of 3.7:1, gearbox with stage 3 shift kit and stalie at 2200 as c.o.m.e said or go how the program said and where can i get this program from or the gearbox rebuilder will know, and the engine from c.o.m.e my enigne rebuilt or new engine from ? what be better and then put them in and tune and she would be good to go any thing i need to do to the engine once it is in ? and this will prob sound stupid but everyone has to learn things.. what does the stallie do hold the idle revs up ?? and what does the shift kit do ? and what if the stallie is to high or low if u get me what could happen