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The Ultimate Alloytec Performance Thread

Dz811

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got it off ebay actually, (found out later it was only 20% underdrive lol), and it was delivered with new high quality belt, one of those awesome ones with the crocodile teeth in it, and 2 new pulleys, which i haven't even put on yet.

the good thing about VZs is that there's heaps of room between the harmonic balancer and the radiator fan, so you dont't have to pull the radiator and stuff off to get to it with a puller. You just have to pull your intake pipe and MAF off so you've got room to get down the front of the engine bay.

And basically from there on it's easy, don't have to worry about timing or aligning, because the timing chains are separate from the belt and balancer. Just undo the centre bolt and get the old one off (hard part), and slide the new and improved one on and re-do the bolt up, just make sure you do it very tight if you dont have a torque wrench, and probably a good idea to leave the car in 4th (or park lol) or something so the crank doesnt turn while your loosening or tightening the bolt.

Then just release the tensioner a bit and slide your new belt on, and job done :)

will explain replacement of the 2 pulleys when i do it, kinda worried the pulley that's on the tensioner will just spring off and go everywhere when i undo it haha.
Otherwise it's a good value-for-money kit, and you'll notice as soon as you fire it up it just jumps to idle, and when free revving it seems more lively.

As for real-life power gains, they are definitely there, but i'm a sucker for the placebo effect so unless you had a dyno nobody knows for sure. I'd be guessing around the 5-7 kw mark, not a huge noticable gain, but a fun mod :) DO IT!!!
 

Greesie

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awwsome mate, sounds pretty easy. might be a stupid question, but do they reduce the power going to the accesories? cus im not 100% sure how they work, i thought they basically make the accessories work slower so that the engine has more power available to go to the wheels instead of say ur a/c and alternator, does this mean ur a/c may not be as efficient?

cheers for your rightup mate
 

vr1uz-fe

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performancemanifolds also dose cams for the alloytec

i also found out that you can delete the variable timing it is complicated but performancemanifolds can do it

the advantage of deleting the variable timing is for upgaded camshafts so you can maintain corect phasing of the cams
 

vr1uz-fe

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and just to put this out there i dont think the cpr6 lower and upper intake are compatible with spacers im not 100% on this but maby some one would know


:edit no the spacers should be fine
 
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Phyco

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awwsome mate, sounds pretty easy. might be a stupid question, but do they reduce the power going to the accesories? cus im not 100% sure how they work, i thought they basically make the accessories work slower so that the engine has more power available to go to the wheels instead of say ur a/c and alternator, does this mean ur a/c may not be as efficient?

cheers for your rightup mate

Yes if anyone can shed some light on this, it would be great. Only thing that is stopping me from buying one right now!
 

kuzman89

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and just to put this out there i dont think the cpr6 lower and upper intake are compatible with spacers im not 100% on this but maby some one would know


:edit no the spacers should be fine

dont think they are, clearance issues on the bonnet i believe was the reason
 

vr1uz-fe

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with the cpr6 i canot be certain but i spoke to the owner about this and he dident know so i did some research and i belive that the cpr6 should work with the sidi in the 3.6 only performancemanifolds might have tested this by now im not sure im not going to find out as i decided not to buy an alloytec
 

Dz811

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As for the underdrive pulley:

Yes essentially it drives your alternator, water pump, a/c, power steering etc 20% less.

By reducing the power used to run these things, more is freed up to be used at your wheels.

I was worried to begin with, that driving these less might be noticeable somewhere, but it isn't, steering feels exactly the same, no electrical or voltage problems (checked with multimeter too, difference is next to nothing), no overheating or temperature related problems, and as for the a/c, I haven't timed the difference it takes to defog the windscreen, but it still seems as though it hasn't changed at all.

Which makes sense, think about it... When your driving, you're between 1500- 6000+ rpm, that's a huge variance in drive speed already.
reducing that by 20% even at 1500 rpm, basically means ur only running the accessories at 1200 rpm... Which is still well above idle and more than enough to drive everything...
 
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