chrisp
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2009
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- Location
- Melbourne Victoria
- Members Ride
- VF2 MY16 SS Redline Sportwagon
As I have mentioned, I have had customers question whether they can actually undo wheel nuts, once I have torqued them up with a wrench or torque bar....So my solution has been to hand them a cross brace and get them to undo it and do them back up....
So with customers physcially undoing them and doing them back up with a cross brace, why would you have to use a torque wrench or torque bar to make sure the wheel nuts are tight?
Why? I do it so I have a good idea of what ‘tight’ is. I find tight is very subjective and changes with body positioning and reach. If sit down on the ground and do them up tight, it’ll be different to standing up and doing them up tight.
I’m not sure about letting the customer decide what is tight enough based on their strength (or what they can undo). I’d be inclined to ask them to do them up to what they think is right (with the wheel brace provided with the car) - then hand them a torque wrench! It could be a learning experience for all involved!
I was surprised just how different ‘tight’ perception changes when doing up spark plugs. It’s really easy to do up the easy-to-access spark plugs, and I was surprised just how much force I had to use to get the correct torque on the hard-to-reach spark plugs.
But why guess, just use a torque wrench and know they are correct.
Also, someone mentioned the VE/VF having 14mm studs and requiring a higher torque. They mentioned that it was difficult to get that torque with the wheel brace provided with the car. I can attest that is true and I seem to recall that the Holden wheel brace actually bends/distorts a bit before the correct torque is reached. I use a breaker bar and a torque wrench instead but the OEM wheel brace is still there if needed.
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