TR6060 thread

[waikato willy]

been a while, took forever to get the little struts that go in to the synchro's but most the stuff is here now, gearbox cleaned up really good, just got to finish installing the tailshaft gears and reverse, now that covid has wrecked any drag racing coming up till sept ill try and get this all in before then

 

[Deuce]

been a while, took forever to get the little struts that go in to the synchro's but most the stuff is here now, gearbox cleaned up really good, just got to finish installing the tailshaft gears and reverse, now that covid has wrecked any drag racing coming up till sept ill try and get this all in before then
View attachment 232933

Yeah I saw that the postponed FDD has now been canned.
Now hopefully everything blows over by August so we can race the first Sunday of September as usual again.

 

[waikato willy]

so I can now confirm this all fits in with no modification to the tunnel at all, no hammering, no cutting , nothing hits at all, lots of room around the top and sides
Because I got the box that would have had a stupid dual mass the spline is a little short, I may have to make another flywheel or shorten the bell housing another 15-20mm, no biggy just more time
I scored a malex shifter for free of my brother who was going to use this in his FD RX7 but he went the way of a rip shifter

 

[waikato willy]

small update, turns out i have been running a "raised finger" pressure plate, this would explain why its all really always been a right ass to adjust, only found this because after I have milled the bellhousing there is no way I could make the release bearing/pressure plate work, just had a vn 304 pressure plate turn up today and its got about 10mm less sticking out than the other plate I was using, fingers crossed it all fits will try this tonight

 

[ephect]

Pics or it didn't happen.

 

[waikato willy]

Pics or it didn't happen.

ha ha here you go

so a rusty old "flat finger" pressure plate i found in my scrap vs the "raised finger" i pulled from my vk, big difference

new 304 vn pressure plate heaps more clearance for release bearing

so my Frankenstein bellhousing, milling the mating face to block showed only 10mm wall thickness, a bit to thin, welded some more 10mm to get some strength back into it and braced the sides to stop it warping to much during welding
this is a 308 pattern to a 4 both m20/m21/Saginaw/toploader pattern modified, shortened almost 20mm

so using stock vn 304 clutch fork , stock plastic release bearing i have a good amount of adjustment now and good pedal travel, next step crossmember / drive shaft and I need to weld the bracket for the clutch cable on

 

[ephect]

It's looking fantastic, and loving this thread.
the pics help us to see what you're doing and our experiences members to chime in if they notice anything a chance to help out.

Keep us posted

 

[Skylarking]

Thanks for posting, there is very little info on doing these conversions and pictures are worth a thousand words.

And unless the pics are hosted on JC's, they could disappear as happened on many threads

 

[waikato willy]

so finally last bit of welding finished, this dam bellhousing had no kind of mounting for the clutch cable, and the pivot point for the clutch fork was way off as well, is got Graham Berry Race cars cast into it, probably really old, but had plenty of meat to tap a new pivot point and it welds up pretty good for a casting with minimal contamination pouring out of the welds
I can bolt it all in now and fab up the cross member

I just looked up and realized there is a bracket that bolts to the bellhousing for the clutch cable, oh well dont need that now, plus they look to be over $100 bucks!
My supra 5 speed had a hole cast to the side of the bellhousing for the cable

 

[Immortality]

And unless the pics are hosted on JC's, they could disappear as happened on many threads

It looks like the OP has posted the pics directly to this thread so it shouldn't be an issue.