Turbo Charge my Vy 'S'

[chunderlicious]

that price list for for all new gear, done to run higher boost with top quality gear. for one a 400 dollar blow off valve is probly the most expensive street style BOV youll find. 3000 dollar manifold is full mandrel bent 1.7mm stainless tig welded with tuned length headers. i know for a fact (turboing a V8 currently, expecting to run low 11s atleast) that a fabrication shop will build a V8 manifold for that price.

An 850 dollar wastegate is the same as the 400 dollar BOV.... WTF!!! and 1900 for a ROLLER bearing turbo is plain robbery... lookin at a GT35 700HP BALLbearing for that price.

1 new roller bearing turbo $1900 RIPOFF
2 stainless steel manifolds $ 3000 VERY GOOD WORK FOR THAT PRICE, BUT NOT NEEDED
depending on build quality
3 wastgate $ 850 RIP OFF
4 blow off valve $ 400 RIP OFF
5 intercooler and piping $ 1350 CAN DO IT CHEAPER IF YOU LOOK INTO IT
6 drain fitted to sump including hot tank sump $ 220
7 braided s\s oil line & silicone return hose $ 130 YOU MUST KNOW SOMEONE TO GET IT THAT CHEAP7 k&n pod filter 4" $ 140
8 s\s dump pipe $ 230 GET THE EXHAUST SHOP TO MAKE IT WITH THE 3" EXHAUST FOR A TOTAL OF THE TWO FOR $700
9 turbo silicone hose for turbo+intercooler+t,body $ 100 WHY DO YOU NEED IT FOR THE INTERCOOLER, RIP OFF
10 bosch green injectors $ 450 PRETTY GOOD PRICE
11 high flow fuel pump $ 230 FOR THAT PRICE IT WONT BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE 1900 DOLLAR TURBO
12 rising rate regulator $ 160 CHEAP AND NASTY
13 larger maf + adapters $ 360
14 exhaust system 3inch $ READ ABOVE POST ON DUMP PIPE
15 mobile1 oil, oil filter, platnum spark plusg $ 220CAN DO BETTER PRICE THAN THAT
16 custom chip on dyno $ 1600 YOU CAN FIND BETTER FOR THAT PRICE
and a few other bits and peices $ 300


other people might not agree with me but you can do it alot cheaper than 15 grand if you only want to run a small amount of boost. 8 pound will spin through an NA engine for quite a few kays aslong as it is tuned right. if you start spinning over 14 thats when these fancy 5 million dollar manifolds are needed with a full engine rebuild. you arent gonna loose much power by not having a 3000 dollar exhaust manifold, thats just crap..

 

[Tradewind]

U won't be doing no custom chip on the machine , maybe a live tune and then reflash the ECU and there ain't too many people in Aus who can for VY. Less than 5 in total.

 

[muvro]

that price list for for all new gear, done to run higher boost with top quality gear. for one a 400 dollar blow off valve is probly the most expensive street style BOV youll find. 3000 dollar manifold is full mandrel bent 1.7mm stainless tig welded with tuned length headers. i know for a fact (turboing a V8 currently, expecting to run low 11s atleast) that a fabrication shop will build a V8 manifold for that price.

An 850 dollar wastegate is the same as the 400 dollar BOV.... WTF!!! and 1900 for a ROLLER bearing turbo is plain robbery... lookin at a GT35 700HP BALLbearing for that price.

1 new roller bearing turbo $1900 RIPOFF
2 stainless steel manifolds $ 3000 VERY GOOD WORK FOR THAT PRICE, BUT NOT NEEDED
depending on build quality
3 wastgate $ 850 RIP OFF
4 blow off valve $ 400 RIP OFF
5 intercooler and piping $ 1350 CAN DO IT CHEAPER IF YOU LOOK INTO IT
6 drain fitted to sump including hot tank sump $ 220
7 braided s\s oil line & silicone return hose $ 130 YOU MUST KNOW SOMEONE TO GET IT THAT CHEAP7 k&n pod filter 4" $ 140
8 s\s dump pipe $ 230 GET THE EXHAUST SHOP TO MAKE IT WITH THE 3" EXHAUST FOR A TOTAL OF THE TWO FOR $700
9 turbo silicone hose for turbo+intercooler+t,body $ 100 WHY DO YOU NEED IT FOR THE INTERCOOLER, RIP OFF
10 bosch green injectors $ 450 PRETTY GOOD PRICE
11 high flow fuel pump $ 230 FOR THAT PRICE IT WONT BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE 1900 DOLLAR TURBO
12 rising rate regulator $ 160 CHEAP AND NASTY
13 larger maf + adapters $ 360
14 exhaust system 3inch $ READ ABOVE POST ON DUMP PIPE
15 mobile1 oil, oil filter, platnum spark plusg $ 220CAN DO BETTER PRICE THAN THAT
16 custom chip on dyno $ 1600 YOU CAN FIND BETTER FOR THAT PRICE
and a few other bits and peices $ 300


other people might not agree with me but you can do it alot cheaper than 15 grand if you only want to run a small amount of boost. 8 pound will spin through an NA engine for quite a few kays aslong as it is tuned right. if you start spinning over 14 thats when these fancy 5 million dollar manifolds are needed with a full engine rebuild. you arent gonna loose much power by not having a 3000 dollar exhaust manifold, thats just crap..

Man there's nicer ways of saying stuff...

There are ways to do things and ways to do things right and there are ways to do it and just scrape through.

Personally I do everything right the first time with quality stuff so it will last a long time and be trouble free.

What you are saying though is quite correct you can do it much cheaper. Especially if you only want a low boost setup.

That list of parts appears to be a RRP list. Yes alot of that stuff can be gotten cheaper.

But again if you want it done right it does cost a bit.

The manifolds cost well, if you want it done in steam pipe (3mm) and want a good job done it could get up there especially if you want it ceramic coated. I personally would NEVER use thinner walled pipe on any turbo manifolds I make. Due to a few reasons. Heat retension, strength, resistance to cracking to mention a few.

The wastegate is one area like the turbo where you want to spend a good bit of coin. But is only needed if you are using turbo large enough to warrent/need an external. For it to be needed you would want to be running a big turbo setup and large boost. For a small turbo setup (low boost) would only require a smaller turbo and an internal wastegate. There for negating this cost for the sake of this thread.

Yeah the blow off valve is kinda steep and a simple lower spec unit can be used with vertually the same effect.

Yeah it can be done cheaper but it would be using a very cheap cooler core and well I owuldn't be expecting anything great when it comes to pipe assembly/welding/build quality. A good core can cost around $500 and up for an average sized cooler. Then there are tanks to be made and assembled etc. But yes it can be done cheaper.

With the exhaust yes it can be done cheaper. But $700 for both? It wouldn't be a very good system, nor would it be expected to last long. A good wel made spilt pipe dump (remember internal wastegate) can cost upwards of 600-700 alone but for a decent one can be had for around 400-500. In good stainless. You can get them made cheaper but they will never work any where near as well as a good quality one.

Yes you need silicone hose for the intercooler piping. From turbo to pipe, from pipe to cooler and from cooler to pipe, then pipe to TB. Not to mention if there are any other connections in between. Not to mention clamps and the quality of clamp you use. In this instance normal hose clamps can be used. But for a high end setup the clamps get up to 12-15 dollars each. Then you go to V clamp setups..... Don't go there.. ahah

Fuel reg... Yep totally agree with you. I'd imagine a Malpassi has been quoted there. Wouldn't touch it even in an emergency! I'd go minimum SARD. $250-300

Custom 3" exhaust. For a good quality one with good mufflers in stainless you'd be looking at 700 minimum. It can be done for very cheap but generally don't last more than a few years before they rust out. Yeah one could argue that you could replace three mild steel systems before matching the cost of a good custom stainless system. But if you intend to keep the car and slowly upgrade over time then definately go stainless. But if you intend on selling in a few years then it could be an option.

All in all though yeah as has said, it can be done cheaper. But generally it can't be done for the money budgeted for. Unless alot of work can be done by the owner.

My turbo build I expect to exceed 15k. But that includes doing the gearbox and one piece tailshaft, TO4Z, full engine rebuild with forgies, custom cam, blah blah. But it also includes me doing all but the engines bottom end. I'll be making everything from custom inlet plenum to porting heads, to Dump pipe and exhaust. But as I said I like to do things right the first time.

Tark

 

[chunderlicious]

sorry i didnt mean to sound harsh but internet makes me sound like a meany...

fair enough you want a good setup but, the point i so bluntly and rudely made was that it can be done cheaper. and the exhaust full mandral bent 3 inch dump to tip with a hiflow cat being extra but including a single 3.5 inch muffler will cost me $450 fully tig welded by a mate at an exhaust shopat very good mates rates. he did a very custom twin 3 inch mandrel (splice and tig, 6 peices to a 25 degree bend) cost him 500 from the back of his pacemakers which were modified to be 3 inch outlet (its a 351 running 454 heads that still needed to be flowed)

its not what you know its who you know

still sounds harsh but its not meant to be

Evan

 

[bandsaw]

sorry i didnt mean to sound harsh but internet makes me sound like a meany...

fair enough you want a good setup but, the point i so bluntly and rudely made was that it can be done cheaper. and the exhaust full mandral bent 3 inch dump to tip with a hiflow cat being extra but including a single 3.5 inch muffler will cost me $450 fully tig welded by a mate at an exhaust shopat very good mates rates. he did a very custom twin 3 inch mandrel (splice and tig, 6 peices to a 25 degree bend) cost him 500 from the back of his pacemakers which were modified to be 3 inch outlet (its a 351 running 454 heads that still needed to be flowed)

its not what you know its who you know

still sounds harsh but its not meant to be

Evan

Mate you didn't mean to be harsh but the fact of the matter is, you were,
proberbly just seeking attention, coz no one will give you any with an attitude like that.
I was just stating what my brother got quoted by various shops, take note I did
say shops, and not backyard dead shits like yourself, these are places of business where The people running them are there to make some money, that’s why they’re in business, they do not buy specialized equipment, learn a trade, pay rent monthly plus other associated costs of running their business to give people like you **** for nothing.
You say you’re a tight arse and that’s fine, you’re entitled to modify and build your cars as cheep and nasty as you wish but that does not qualify you in any way to disrespect what other have to say, it is a public forum.
My brother earns good money and he would prefer to pay professional business
to do a proper job the first time round just like Muvro said.
People like your self that don’t even entertain the thought of paying good
money or for that matter any money at all for a job well done, and are generally people with envy that can't afford **** like that, going around trying to high note themselves.
So if you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all coz I really don’t think there
are too many that want to hear it.

 

[krawczuk]

Mate you didn't mean to be harsh but the fact of the matter is, you were,
proberbly just seeking attention, coz no one will give you any with an attitude like that.
I was just stating what my brother got quoted by various shops, take note I did
say shops, and not backyard dead shits like yourself, these are places of business where The people running them are there to make some money, that’s why they’re in business, they do not buy specialized equipment, learn a trade, pay rent monthly plus other associated costs of running their business to give people like you **** for nothing.
You say you’re a tight arse and that’s fine, you’re entitled to modify and build your cars as cheep and nasty as you wish but that does not qualify you in any way to disrespect what other have to say, it is a public forum.
My brother earns good money and he would prefer to pay professional business
to do a proper job the first time round just like Muvro said.
People like your self that don’t even entertain the thought of paying good
money or for that matter any money at all for a job well done, and are generally people with envy that can't afford **** like that, going around trying to high note themselves.
So if you have nothing nice to say, don't say anything at all coz I really don’t think there
are too many that want to hear it.

hi, as for pistons, even cast ones are fine, i used cast , running 15 psi (160kw@rear) all day everyday , everytime it got driven it got thrashed, lean out is the killer, not psi/..

mark k

 

[muvro]

sorry i didnt mean to sound harsh but internet makes me sound like a meany...

fair enough you want a good setup but, the point i so bluntly and rudely made was that it can be done cheaper. and the exhaust full mandral bent 3 inch dump to tip with a hiflow cat being extra but including a single 3.5 inch muffler will cost me $450 fully tig welded by a mate at an exhaust shopat very good mates rates. he did a very custom twin 3 inch mandrel (splice and tig, 6 peices to a 25 degree bend) cost him 500 from the back of his pacemakers which were modified to be 3 inch outlet (its a 351 running 454 heads that still needed to be flowed)

its not what you know its who you know

still sounds harsh but its not meant to be

Evan

Yeah no probs here,

It might be all well in good that you can get it done really cheap yourself. I can make mine for the cost of the materials and spend days on it if i want to. But unfortunately only a handful of people are in teh position where they can get it imensly cheap.

So hte prices that were quoted previously are about right for the average punter looking to get this sort of work done.

I have had people i know say that my price for a full custom exhaust in 316 stainless is a rip off. Coz they heard it can be done for X amount of dollars coz they read it on the net. I tell them that I don't want to work on thier car if they don't trust my price is right. LOL

Anyways, no harm done.

Totally agree in this game it's definately who you know!!!

 

[Blue-Chip]

Man there's nicer ways of saying stuff...

There are ways to do things and ways to do things right and there are ways to do it and just scrape through.

Personally I do everything right the first time with quality stuff so it will last a long time and be trouble free.

What you are saying though is quite correct you can do it much cheaper. Especially if you only want a low boost setup.

That list of parts appears to be a RRP list. Yes alot of that stuff can be gotten cheaper.

But again if you want it done right it does cost a bit.

The manifolds cost well, if you want it done in steam pipe (3mm) and want a good job done it could get up there especially if you want it ceramic coated. I personally would NEVER use thinner walled pipe on any turbo manifolds I make. Due to a few reasons. Heat retension, strength, resistance to cracking to mention a few.

The wastegate is one area like the turbo where you want to spend a good bit of coin. But is only needed if you are using turbo large enough to warrent/need an external. For it to be needed you would want to be running a big turbo setup and large boost. For a small turbo setup (low boost) would only require a smaller turbo and an internal wastegate. There for negating this cost for the sake of this thread.

Yeah the blow off valve is kinda steep and a simple lower spec unit can be used with vertually the same effect.

Yeah it can be done cheaper but it would be using a very cheap cooler core and well I owuldn't be expecting anything great when it comes to pipe assembly/welding/build quality. A good core can cost around $500 and up for an average sized cooler. Then there are tanks to be made and assembled etc. But yes it can be done cheaper.

With the exhaust yes it can be done cheaper. But $700 for both? It wouldn't be a very good system, nor would it be expected to last long. A good wel made spilt pipe dump (remember internal wastegate) can cost upwards of 600-700 alone but for a decent one can be had for around 400-500. In good stainless. You can get them made cheaper but they will never work any where near as well as a good quality one.

Yes you need silicone hose for the intercooler piping. From turbo to pipe, from pipe to cooler and from cooler to pipe, then pipe to TB. Not to mention if there are any other connections in between. Not to mention clamps and the quality of clamp you use. In this instance normal hose clamps can be used. But for a high end setup the clamps get up to 12-15 dollars each. Then you go to V clamp setups..... Don't go there.. ahah

Fuel reg... Yep totally agree with you. I'd imagine a Malpassi has been quoted there. Wouldn't touch it even in an emergency! I'd go minimum SARD. $250-300

Custom 3" exhaust. For a good quality one with good mufflers in stainless you'd be looking at 700 minimum. It can be done for very cheap but generally don't last more than a few years before they rust out. Yeah one could argue that you could replace three mild steel systems before matching the cost of a good custom stainless system. But if you intend to keep the car and slowly upgrade over time then definately go stainless. But if you intend on selling in a few years then it could be an option.

All in all though yeah as has said, it can be done cheaper. But generally it can't be done for the money budgeted for. Unless alot of work can be done by the owner.

My turbo build I expect to exceed 15k. But that includes doing the gearbox and one piece tailshaft, TO4Z, full engine rebuild with forgies, custom cam, blah blah. But it also includes me doing all but the engines bottom end. I'll be making everything from custom inlet plenum to porting heads, to Dump pipe and exhaust. But as I said I like to do things right the first time.

Tark

Hi Muvro,

It certainly sounds like you've done your home work, and a bloody TO4Z
that's an awesome size turbo.
what sort of boost level are you intending to run? and are you doing a cam
change, if so I would recommend one with no overlap in it at all.
My other concern would also be the gate coz with a snail that size as you
would know, would be very difficult controlling lower boost levels unless you
use quite a large gate.
Just out of interest what A\R ratio are you running on the turbine side of your
TO4Z?
But all in all it sounds like a very good project, Keep up the good work.

Cheers Lou

BCT.

 

[wizza]

Man there's nicer ways of saying stuff...

There are ways to do things and ways to do things right and there are ways to do it and just scrape through.

Personally I do everything right the first time with quality stuff so it will last a long time and be trouble free.

What you are saying though is quite correct you can do it much cheaper. Especially if you only want a low boost setup.

That list of parts appears to be a RRP list. Yes alot of that stuff can be gotten cheaper.

But again if you want it done right it does cost a bit.

The manifolds cost well, if you want it done in steam pipe (3mm) and want a good job done it could get up there especially if you want it ceramic coated. I personally would NEVER use thinner walled pipe on any turbo manifolds I make. Due to a few reasons. Heat retension, strength, resistance to cracking to mention a few.

The wastegate is one area like the turbo where you want to spend a good bit of coin. But is only needed if you are using turbo large enough to warrent/need an external. For it to be needed you would want to be running a big turbo setup and large boost. For a small turbo setup (low boost) would only require a smaller turbo and an internal wastegate. There for negating this cost for the sake of this thread.

Yeah the blow off valve is kinda steep and a simple lower spec unit can be used with vertually the same effect.

Yeah it can be done cheaper but it would be using a very cheap cooler core and well I owuldn't be expecting anything great when it comes to pipe assembly/welding/build quality. A good core can cost around $500 and up for an average sized cooler. Then there are tanks to be made and assembled etc. But yes it can be done cheaper.

With the exhaust yes it can be done cheaper. But $700 for both? It wouldn't be a very good system, nor would it be expected to last long. A good wel made spilt pipe dump (remember internal wastegate) can cost upwards of 600-700 alone but for a decent one can be had for around 400-500. In good stainless. You can get them made cheaper but they will never work any where near as well as a good quality one.

Yes you need silicone hose for the intercooler piping. From turbo to pipe, from pipe to cooler and from cooler to pipe, then pipe to TB. Not to mention if there are any other connections in between. Not to mention clamps and the quality of clamp you use. In this instance normal hose clamps can be used. But for a high end setup the clamps get up to 12-15 dollars each. Then you go to V clamp setups..... Don't go there.. ahah

Fuel reg... Yep totally agree with you. I'd imagine a Malpassi has been quoted there. Wouldn't touch it even in an emergency! I'd go minimum SARD. $250-300

Custom 3" exhaust. For a good quality one with good mufflers in stainless you'd be looking at 700 minimum. It can be done for very cheap but generally don't last more than a few years before they rust out. Yeah one could argue that you could replace three mild steel systems before matching the cost of a good custom stainless system. But if you intend to keep the car and slowly upgrade over time then definately go stainless. But if you intend on selling in a few years then it could be an option.

All in all though yeah as has said, it can be done cheaper. But generally it can't be done for the money budgeted for. Unless alot of work can be done by the owner.

My turbo build I expect to exceed 15k. But that includes doing the gearbox and one piece tailshaft, TO4Z, full engine rebuild with forgies, custom cam, blah blah. But it also includes me doing all but the engines bottom end. I'll be making everything from custom inlet plenum to porting heads, to Dump pipe and exhaust. But as I said I like to do things right the first time.

Tark

its alot of work. honeslty for 15k your better off gettin a completly new engine/ rotary / tt already made and getting that all rebuilt / dumpt in and engineered... = more power than ****ing around with a shitty na 6. what a waste of money and time

 

[muvro]

Hi Muvro,

It certainly sounds like you've done your home work, and a bloody TO4Z
that's an awesome size turbo.
what sort of boost level are you intending to run? and are you doing a cam
change, if so I would recommend one with no overlap in it at all.
My other concern would also be the gate coz with a snail that size as you
would know, would be very difficult controlling lower boost levels unless you
use quite a large gate.
Just out of interest what A\R ratio are you running on the turbine side of your
TO4Z?
But all in all it sounds like a very good project, Keep up the good work.

Cheers Lou

BCT.

G'day Lou,

Yeah I have been doing a SHITE load of homework. I just ended about 3 yrs of reasearch on the L67 making up the intercooler setup etc. Then when the piston let go (previous damage not from the last setup) it was time to get serious... LOL

Yeah I already have the cam. It's a custom ground cam. It's got a max valve lift of .574" and LSA is 115.8. Advertised duration is 274 degrees. All these are inlet figures. Ex is slightly different.

Yeah the turbo isn't set in concrete yet as I am going to wait till I port the heads and inlet manifold and get it all flow tested before I actually purchase the turbo. Also once it's all flow tested it wil give me more of an idea on what sort of hp I'll be able to aim for, making it easier in selecting the correct turbo. It's either going to be a GT35r or the TO4z.

Yeah gate duties wil be done with a Tial 44mm. I am just going to use a mech boost controller to get it all running. Then later I'll prolly invest in one of those E-boost 2 controllers.

Again not sure on the exact turbo specs yet. But I am pretty certain I'll be around the 1.0 mark. Although I do want it to have around 12-15 psi by 3k. SO I might have to go a .8 if it's too laggy. Either way it's going to have a huge stall in it.. LOL

I'll be making the ex manifolds etc. I haven't worked out the exact specs yet as there are a few other things to do before I get there. I'll also be making a custom upper inlet manifold ontop of the slightly ported and polished VX lower IM.

Thanks for the encouragement!!!

It's going to be a long road but I plan on driving my car from my wedding next year. So I have a fair bit of time up my sleeve to amek sure everything is going to be perfect!

Gotta help the old man first, and finish the race car we are restoring. Then it's full time on my car.

Thanks and I'll put up a thread on the build when I get stuck into it. Keep you updated!

Cheers

Tark







WIZZA..........:thumbsup:

Well it shows your knowledge on the subject...... :bang:

Before you mouth off, you might want to find out a little about the person you are mouthing off at first...

Also a little more reading and absorbing will take you further than useless posts like yours...

Don't like it don't comment unless you have something constructive to say!

Tark:whistling