Update to Cant bleed up clutch

[REXDRUMMER]

Hey guys,,So installed new master cylinder while retasining the slave and line at gearbox and have managed to get pressure after bleeding..really good pressure infact,,however after depressing the clutch pedal it still wont go into gear,,im thinking maybe clutch plate now,,just seems strange with not being able to bleed then fixing that and discovering this new problem,,is there a certin way for the clutch and pp to go on,,i remember reading it had to be lined up with something yada yada or just do it like any other clutch in the past,,

 

[losh1971]

Garage struggled with mine a while back. I ended up having no clutch for the last 400m before getting back to his garage after picking it up and noticed it was losing fluid after getting home. They are a prick of a thing.

 

[BlackVXGTS]

Refer to the item below that I wrote some time ago. I suspect that the clutch arrangement in the VE is no different. It may (or may not) help you with your problem.

"I have a Textralia X-grip clutch system installed on my VX GTS 427 with a standard master and slave cylinder, and don't have the problems you are experiencing. Having said that, an HD clutch will always be more temperamental in terms of release and smoothness compared with a standard clutch - however, the standard ones won't cut the mustard !!!

I suspect that your clutch is not being bled properly - it's difficult to do with the clutch slave cylinder being installed inside the bell housing. Firstly, I recommend you purchase and install an extended bleeder from eBay - you may get it cheaper from Bursons and other motor retailers. This allows you to easily attach a hose and container to the bleed nipple:

The next thing is very important. I replace my clutch fluid every six months because it becomes contaminated (and black) and I've tried all different methods to replace the fluid and get a good pedal. You need to forget the guidelines you may have seen in relation to bleeding brake lines.

1. Once you have installed the extended bleeder, remove all the old brake fluid from the clutch master cylinder. I use a turkey baster to syringe all the fluid out and kitchen paper and a toothbrush to get rid of any remaining dirt and fluid.
2. Fill the master cylinder with new fluid - I use racing brake fluid but I'm not sure if that works any better than standard high quality brake fluid.
3. Attach a (clear) plastic tube attached to a container, which is located higher than the slave cylinder.
4. Crack the bleed nipple about 1/2 of a turn.
5. Slowly pump the clutch pedal three times.
6. Refill the master cylinder and repeat step 5 until the fluid in the plastic tube is clear. you need to be careful as the clutch master cylinder is rather small and if you pump the clutch more than three times, or forget to fill the master cylinder you will have to start all over again.
7. Once the fluid in the tube is clear, tighten the bleed screw, top up the master cylinder, and you will have a magnificent clutch pedal that has no sponginess and performs well.
8. Be careful when you remove the plastic tube and reservoir to prevent old clutch fluid contaminating you and the environment !!!"

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

Never done a VE clutch but have done hundreds of motorbike and early holden clutches which were hydraulic and I just use a vacuum bleeder as it save all the messing around. I use this kit well the one I use is over 20 years old and had 2 rebuild kits through it but basically the same and the same brand and highly recommended especially on a lot of Harley forums when they used to use DOT 5 silicon brake fluid which is prick to bleed as it forms micro bubbles and when not done properly gives a real spongey brake. DOT 4 is way easier to bleed.

MITYVAC Automotive Test & Bleed Kit - Mityvac Online Shop

Original Mityvac hand vacuum pump kit that service technicians use to perform a variety of mechanical and diagnostic tests on automobiles as well as to bleed brakes by hand. Our most well-liked Selectline hand vacuum pump, along with a vacuum gauge and accessories, is included in the MV8000 kit.

mityvac.com.au

 

[losh1971]

The LS slave is a different kettle of fish. It's a bastard to put it politely.

 

[uglyoldfatbastard]

The LS slave is a different kettle of fish. It's a bastard to put it politely.

As I said never done one and don't even know what it looks like but with vacuum bleeding you do not need to open and close the bleeder with vacuum applied and just need someone to keep pouring in fluid until the bubbles stop and then close the bleeder once.

 

[lmoengnr]

Never done a VE clutch but have done hundreds of motorbike and early holden clutches which were hydraulic and I just use a vacuum bleeder as it save all the messing around. I use this kit well the one I use is over 20 years old and had 2 rebuild kits through it but basically the same and the same brand and highly recommended especially on a lot of Harley forums when they used to use DOT 5 silicon brake fluid which is prick to bleed as it forms micro bubbles and when not done properly gives a real spongey brake. DOT 4 is way easier to bleed.

http://[URL]https://mityvac.com.au/product/mityvac-automotive-test-bleed-kit/

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Was gonna suggest a Mityvac, if you can attach the hose to the bleed nipple it should be fine.