VC Resto - 1JZ GTE - Lemon

[Callum14]

Bit left of field but the taillights appear to be VB, rather than VC....VC have black running through the centre of the taillights and horizontal inbetween each light source...ie blinker/brake/reverse light...

Good spot, I hadn't even noticed. Car came with a single VC tail light and the pair of (what I now know) are VB tail lights. Will likely look for another VC tail light as the black probably looks nicer than the red, but I'm a while away from this

Even bead blasting can warp panels. Go with soda and then use something more abrasive around the rusty areas and in places where warping is unlikely to occur.

Yeah I don't know the ins and outs of sandblasting, however I trust the mob doing it and they've done more than enough to know what they're doing.

Nice, look forward to following your build, What's the running gear going to be?

Great question, not too sure yet. I'm thinking a 304 but going for the ol' Carby setup to look "period correct", and by carby I mean something like the Holley Sniper EFI. That's a while away though, I've got plenty of mates with LS's that go hard, just not sure I'm all for it.

Will get the body all painted and back together before stressing too much, especially with the prices I've seen recently. But hey, that's how it is these days.

 

[Callum14]

Also got all the sound deadening out, that was a job and a half. Need to go over it with a heatgun to remove the leftover bits and the sealer. That's a job for another day

 

[harrop.senator]

The 355 torque a lot of the time shows up LS cars with a higher peak hp

If want the old school carby look I'd run a Harrop or torque power with a throttle body and the injectors. You'll be able to spot the fuel rails but maintain a Delco computer running the system which are very capable.

The price is barely any difference between a carby manifold and EFI. The throttle body is only about $4-500 vs almost 2k.

From what I've read a set and forget is more reliable then tuning on the fly.

 

[Skylarking]

Car panels are thinner than a trailer panel, therefore doesn't take much to warp a car panel compared to a trailer panel

From memory, car panels are ` point 6MM thick...Older car panels around the early 70's were point 8 Mm thick, so they could handle a bit more punishment, per say

Yes I have seen sand blasting done at home, using a small air compressor and elcheapo spray gun....What a mess and what an a hole of a job just removing paint from one panel...Took about 2 hours to do 1 guard and 1 door...Was on a 46 Ford coupe

Yeah i realise that car panels ae thinner than the steel used in a trailer but water blasting supposedly doesn't generate heat within the panel in the same way that air blasting does so warping shouldn't be an issue and it doesn't seem to eat away at the metal either.... Hense my question who on the forum has done such.

Here is just one example of how it can be done at home.

and a more professional water blasting process

As i said it's a wet and dirty job (the cleanup post blasting as sweeping wet sand/pint mix aint fun but also cleaning the crevises to ensure all sand is washed away from the car being stripped). It's nothing like dry air blasting which requires breathing equipment and sealled spaces else the dust gets everywhere...

I suspect that doing such wet blasting at home means that once sound deadener is removed you can get straight into it without cleaning up small leftover gunk and sealer...

Anyway, was just wondering how well water blasting works on a car at home... Such worked very well on my trailer when i did it on the nature strip
Callum may or may not be interested in doing such at home but thats ok

 

[Callum14]

Callum may or may not be interested in doing such at home but thats ok

I'd love to have the blasting done at home, but unfortunately that's not an option until we buy rural (one day soon I hope) Plus my neighbors probably aren't too fond of 2k epoxy being sprayed in their street.

 

[Gozza1]

As for engine, it's your choice I get why people go LS way, lots of power and turn key performance but having said I am sucker for old push rod Carby V8s hehe the smell, sound and shakes cannot beat it ...

 

[Callum14]

As for engine, it's your choice I get why people go LS way, lots of power and turn key performance but having said I am sucker for old push rod Carby V8s hehe the smell, sound and shakes cannot beat it ...

The shakes/smells... that’s 100% it anyone can build a fast car, if that’s what you want then LS, but yeh, I’m with you on the old V8’s

 

[vc commodore]

What side taillight are you missing? I have a spare right hand one that I'll let go

 

[Gozza1]

Good to hear Callum I am not the only one, hehe I had so many cars over the years, even High tech cars such as Porsche 928 S4 but Nothing beats the sound of my old chavelle, yes if you stand next to it the shirt will stink of pollution it emits hence I am sticking to Carby on my Vc, it was good for 42 years see no reason to change

 

[Callum14]

Nothing beats the sound of my old chavelle, yes if you stand next to it the shirt will stink of pollution it emits

Absolutely this. I've had fast cars in the past, hell I just got out of a BMW F80 M3, but I'm at that point where I've realize that I don't need to be able to do 300kp/h on the highway. I'd rather spent my time stinking of petrol / exhaust fumes tbh

Also, thats one veerrrry nice Chevelle! The jealousy is real.

What side taillight are you missing? I have a spare right hand one that I'll let go

Bugger, looks like I've got a RHS one. That said it's got a pretty nasty crack in it, so I might take it off your hands depending what you're chasing?

The VB ones I have are missing the globe holders (well, now one is after pinching from the VC light), and there's a clip missing on both, but I think I'll run these until I come across a pair.

On another note, been going hard on seam sealer removal. Removing from the rear arches is less than pleasant, however I got the majority of it off with a wire wheel. Asked the blaster if I can leave the underbody coating for them to take off, it's pretty hard so I might be lucky.

Will put some photos below of that if anyone's interested.

I'm no professional, and I absolutely hate seam sealer removal. Need to go over it all again.

Got the seam sealer that joins the boot floor to the beaver panel, however it's got a few holes and it's pretty dented. Speaking to the rust repair guy we think it's better to just replace the whole panel so it looks nice and new.

Photos make it look worse than it is.