VE Series 2 "Z" Series Audio.

[Dad's Ute]

Hi Folks,
I'm a long time reader but first time contributor so please be gentle.

I've just taken delivery of a new VE "Z' Series SV-6. The car drives well, the seats offer plenty of support and the extra room inside is handy. All my driving is highway work using Cruise Control but there's still plenty in reserve if I have to pass another car. I haven't towed with it yet.

Gosh there are areas of the interior build that leave a lot to be desired. The other two cars in the family are imports and I can understand why this make of car is outselling Holden. Holden really need to lift their game here.

Anyway.............onto the audio in the Z.

It's disgraceful and deplorable.

If Holden have an Audio Design Department and I had any influence you'd all be looking for new jobs tomorrow. What a joke.

I've been trawling through all the threads and I have compiled a fair bit of information but I guess I'm after a December 2012 update if anybody will contribute.

I removed the center dash speaker after the third day of owning the car. I read on the forums where the center speaker grills on the VE'S are temperamental to remove. They say to persevere though and to be brutal as you won't break them.

This is incorrect.

There are actually two types of center speaker grills that are basically identical, except for one having a tough metal mesh and the other plastic.

The plastic center speaker grills will break if you are rough with them.

I'd agree with other posters that the removal of that center speaker is an improvement.

That center speaker is an insult to iron ore, copper and paper. Granny's 1960 AM Battery Transistor Radio had a better speaker in it than that.

I'm planning my update on the audio so I am asking for some advice. Technology is moving ahead so there may be some updated equipment you guys are aware of that I am not.

I'm after quality over quantity. My I Pod is always plugged in and I'm not into any Screamo or Doof Doof.

I already have the enclosures for a pair of 6" x 9"'s to go behind the seats. I don't really require subs and I feel the 6 x 9's will give me enough bass anyway. I'll update the door speakers with some decent 2 ways and fill the service holes and Dyna Mat the doors. That's all taken care of. I'll be updating the wiring too.

Next is where I need the advice. I'm thinking of a digital EQ (converting to RCA) then into a 4 (or 5.1) channel amp.

I've been reading where you guys have been installing just a stand alone high level input amp and that's been working too. I'd prefer a sound processor or EQ in line first.

Are there any updated thoughts other than what's posted in previous threads? I'll be sourcing everything on-line from O/S and self installing. I'm also based in Melbourne.

Thanks and all the best for the festive season.

 

[Frank2112]

I went the DSP (Audison Bit Ten) and amplifier route with my SV6. Really happy with the results. Upgraded the speakers as well. Not impressed with the level of plastic in the VE but apart from that the only hassle is the sunglasses rattling in the roof holder when I turn up the volume.

 

[The X Man]

The sound in a VE Commodore is the worst i have experienced in a new car over at least 10 years. To build a car with such poor quality sound in this stone age is deplorable. Yes, those engineers responsible should be sacked immediatley and re-employed by Wendy's selling ice-creams as that's all they are probably good at. The Falcon and Aurion leave the Commodore for dead in the sound department, even base models. In fact the Nissan Tilda i was in yesterday had better sound.

I will never understand Holden's mentality, that is if they have any at all. They just don't seem to be able to get any car in their range right, this is despite spending 1 Billion on the VE!

Also, good luck with rattles and squeaks once you pull everything apart. It's put together with clips that break easily and trim that marks if you dare touch it. If you value your sanity don't touch it, EVER!

 

[bonners]

I agree totally with the quality.

I upgraded the clubby with Rockford Fosgate speakers and amp and a Fusion amp/sub enclosure we had. We removed the rear parcel shelf speakers. Damn what a difference> For about $1200 fitted I have increased the quality so much. And I havent really done anything.

It wouldnt be that hard to improve the quality nor cost them much.

 

[Dad's Ute]

The speakers

Hey Frank,
Did you swap out the factory tweeters in your install for better ones?

Or did you leave them untouched? Getting those small tweeter grills out without doing any damage has been on the back of my mind.

I guess I'd expect to pay around the $500 mark for the Audison Bit 10?

Thanks.

I went the DSP (Audison Bit Ten) and amplifier route with my SV6. Really happy with the results. Upgraded the speakers as well. Not impressed with the level of plastic in the VE but apart from that the only hassle is the sunglasses rattling in the roof holder when I turn up the volume.

 

[Dad's Ute]

Thanks bonners.

The "Z" has Dual Zone Climate Control which is as practical in a Ute Cabin as a snooze button on a smoke alarm.

I understand with all the tooling in the assembly line process that it's probably more cost effective just to install it rather than not. They say that these days it's now cheaper to install electric windows than mechanicals.

I'd rather drop the Dual Zone Climate Control in favor of a better audio system.

 

[PIR4TE]

I've got a wagon and it needs more dB SPL to get a hifi sound so is different, worse with stock speakers. It was the first aftermarket install on the IQ front end, which at the time assumed was the root of bad sound / the need to compensate with active DSP etc.
No, it is the amp:
At worst just amp IQ and change front splits, at best get someone who makes a living and wins awards for professional car installations. I had mine installed by guys who hold the record for 'dB Drag Racing' - a loudness competition. Of course they wanted to rip out everything and centre speaker delete didn't phase me, neither did DSP and sub so signed off on system install without really looking into what D Class amp meant and standard features of integrated digital processing available (JL Audio 900/5).
I supervised the year down, dynamat install, wire routing and final tuning and (I've built several digital audio systems and JayCar amps etc over past 30 years) FWIW *get a professional to tune and install a good amp* - investing and concentrating effort on back speakers and equalisers is analogous to making good with Dolby B cassette-tapes.
Find a car sound professional that will tune and normalize the cabin sound using the right equipment and customise the VE sound stage to your liking. Not just wham bam splice and rewire.
EDIT: Line level testing of differential balanced inputs and spectral analysis of speaker response saved me spending $500 on a DSP or EQ as amp handles all of that precisely. Also guarantees absolutely no interference.
The middle speaker should only be heard when the ignition is off, amp is off, yes sounds like an old AWA but you are not draining the battery listening to it. Don't worry about it, left un-amped the gain is so low you can't hear it interfere with the main four speakers. Ideal for kids and hands free calls.
Spend money on digital amp first, front splits second, bugger all for the backs - mine was $1800 installed incl sub box and dampening.
The IQ is near perfect with a good external amp and speakers, no need for active tweaks or fiddling with knobs to compensate all the time. You get tone, timber and musicality / colour from selecting the right front splits to suit your music style on the VE's front stage.
The sportwagon needs bass extension (subwoofer), not sure how practical or effective that would be in typical sedan install, under driver seat maybe?

 

[Dad's Ute]

Hey thanks PIR4TE

I agree with the Sportwagon versus the Ute cabin. My "Z" is a Ute. We are talking about a different kettle of fish. From what I've read on the Forums a sub would be overkill for me. I basically just want quality sound and I haven't got that with the standard unit. I've left the center speaker cover off until I decide what to do.

I'm panning through amps and LOC's at the moment and I've been speaking with some installers. The Audsen Bit 10 interface keeps coming up as a great option. There's nothing in the door card removal replacing front splits and rear parcel shelf removal and Dyna Mat installation that I can't do myself. I really think I can do a better job anyway.

What did you do with factory tweeters?

 

[Dad's Ute]

Hey thanks Pirate.

I agree with the Sportwagon versus the Ute cabin. My "Z" is a Ute. We are talking about a different kettle of fish. From what I've read on the Forums a sub would be overkill for me. I basically just want quality sound and I haven't got that with the standard unit. I've left the center speaker cover off until I decide what to do.

I'm panning through amps and LOC's at the moment and I've been speaking with some installers. The Audsen Bit 10 interface keeps coming up as a great option. There's nothing in the door card removal replacing front splits and rear parcel shelf removal and Dyna Mat installation that I can't do myself. I really think I can do a better job anyway.

What did you do with factory tweeters?

 

[Dad's Ute]

Hey Folks so far I'm considering:-

Amp:- Rockford Fosgate R600-4D.
6" x 9"'s which I'll place in enclosures behind the seats:- Rockford Fosgate Power T1693.
For the door cards either:- Rockford Fosgate T2652-S, or Rockford Fosgate Power T165 (depending on what others have done regarding the tweeters).

I can get all of that out of the USA for about $730 delivered. Wiring I'll purchase here and then there's the interface (LOC) which I haven't decided on yet.