Ve ss dyno results please give your opinion

[Tim-dietrich]

Yea im definitely considering otr and retune should only cost couple hundred to retune just a tickle up.

Will probably be putting a cam in it this time next year.

I dont understand how that undy222 made 235kw standard mine made 217kw before the tune and i already had full exhaust and intake done. Do some dynos just read that drastically different.

How can a car make more power in hotter conditions it kind of contradicts everything about a cold air intake. Colder the air the more dense it is and the bigger the bang.

 

[07GTS]

they all read different my stock run with cai was 221rkw and that's a ls2 307 engine, as long as u use same dyno and make improvements that's all that matters, also the intake temp is a multiplier for the dyno output figure because it affects it so much it offsets it so u can make consistent runs throughout the day and not be seeing changes just because the weather changed

 

[monstar]

Yea im definitely considering otr and retune should only cost couple hundred to retune just a tickle up.

Will probably be putting a cam in it this time next year.

I dont understand how that undy222 made 235kw standard mine made 217kw before the tune and i already had full exhaust and intake done. Do some dynos just read that drastically different.

How can a car make more power in hotter conditions it kind of contradicts everything about a cold air intake. Colder the air the more dense it is and the bigger the bang.

Easy way to explain dyno errors: All torque readings must be matched to engine RPM across the pull, very few are, that is the main problem. ie most charts are flawed.
But anyway regarding raw figures and corrected, to be of any comparative use at all, raw power (torque x RPM) readings taken at 0°C ambient versus another at 40°C ambient need to reliably show the same engine output no mater what the prevailing atmospheric conditions. Is how a car is rated at say 307 kW, irrespective of qualifying that with prevailing atmospheric conditions at time of measurement.
The raw power figure and atmospheric conditions from the dyno station are compared using PC software to a set of ratified, standard conditions and offsets defined here in Oz as SAE (J1349) and STD (J607), and with the rise of the Germans, DIN. There are several subsets and qualifications to these standards but the main purpose is to reliably simplify communication of any power output claim without having to quote all atmospheric conditions then multiplying compensation factors in order to compare power output.
In other words a dyno measures the raw torque figure and takes the engine RPM and atmospheric into account, compares it to the above standards which are like ideal lab conditions, and comes up with a power output which the car would make if it were under those same ideal conditions.
The further away from ideal conditions of the above standards, the greater correction is applied, eg. always going to have more correction added at 40° actual ambient vs 0° J607 test standard.

 

[undy222]

Good result, if it was bolt-on only. Tune should see 320 efficiently out of that combo, no point in running it that low deliberately?

Tim with properly corrected dyno the output actually strays higher with warmer ambient.

yeah it made more power but they down tuned for longevity + I wouldn't be surprised it lower reading DYNO ei

Yea im definitely considering otr and retune should only cost couple hundred to retune just a tickle up.

Will probably be putting a cam in it this time next year.

I dont understand how that undy222 made 235kw standard mine made 217kw before the tune and i already had full exhaust and intake done. Do some dynos just read that drastically different.

How can a car make more power in hotter conditions it kind of contradicts everything about a cold air intake. Colder the air the more dense it is and the bigger the bang.

I spose every Dyno is different & for me it wasn't about numbers more about how it drives, & it drives great. & pulls like a train

 

[Tim-dietrich]

Yea i can understand that every dyno is different and i absolutely agree with you its all about how it drives and pulls and i definitely think it drives nicely and i like the way they tuned the trans the shifting feels firmer and it definitely pulls harder was just hoping for bigger numbers. Ive been reading lots and lots about pods vs otr and otrs perform well on dyno but in real driving conditions sometimes the pods perform better dont get as bad heatsoak would really love to have the money to test it for myself tuning between the two and doing road testing seeing how it all feels

 

[07GTS]

i wouldnt worry bout heat soak in a OTR when driving they get the air from the front of the car, where as the pod sitting behind the front light gets no airflow what so ever, i got my OTR because the pod i had before was heating up into the 50's deg on the dyno where the OTR was in the 30's just above ambient

 

[vr304]

i wouldnt worry bout heat soak in a OTR when driving they get the air from the front of the car, where as the pod sitting behind the front light gets no airflow what so ever, i got my OTR because the pod i had before was heating up into the 50's deg on the dyno where the OTR was in the 30's just above ambient

Yip there's a reason why otr intakes are so commonly used

 

[NU13]

Yip there's a reason why otr intakes are so commonly used

What part of NZ are you in?
The only major difference between our setups is the deleted cats and manual. From what i have read the paracitic power loss between a manual and auto is about 10% - 15%. EG - The auto losses about 25% to 15% of power between the engine and rear wheel where as the maunal losses between 10% - 15% between engine and wheels. And yes i am happy to be corrected
With a full 2.5inch Defillipo system with cats deleted and extractors, Harrop OTR, full custom retune i got 278RWKW. Going to fork out for the cam/spring and custom retune in about 3 weeks for my E1 GTS manual, hoping to hit about 305RWKW with it.

 

[vr304]

What part of NZ are you in?
The only major difference between our setups is the deleted cats and manual. From what i have read the paracitic power loss between a manual and auto is about 10% - 15%. EG - The auto losses about 25% to 15% of power between the engine and rear wheel where as the maunal losses between 10% - 15% between engine and wheels. And yes i am happy to be corrected
With a full 2.5inch Defillipo system with cats deleted and extractors, Harrop OTR, full custom retune i got 278RWKW. Going to fork out for the cam/spring and custom retune in about 3 weeks for my E1 GTS manual, hoping to hit about 305RWKW with it.

I'm in Auckland mate my setup consists of hsv headers with cat delete pipes, 2.5 inch stainless x force cat back, eastern automotive branded otr and manual also, my car was dynoed with the std SS headers and gutted cats so has probably picked up a couple more kW with the hsv headers and proper de cat pipes... Feels like it has anyway good luck with the cam I'd love to do the same myself what cam r u going for?

 

[NU13]

Going for a VCM884. Could have gone bigger but the wife will drown out the sound of the cam with her moaning lol.