VF External Transmission Cooler Installation - Fluid Filling

[chrisp]

Does anyone know the temp range the thermal block opens/ operates at ?

I’d expect the VF workshop manual PDF that you can find for download within the forum would indicate the fully open temp of the transmission fluid thermal bypass valve as used with our external cooler. I haven’t had a chance to look at it but you can find and download it and check it out yourself.

Many Chevy that used 6L80E also use a thermal bypass valve bolted to the transmissions side. Those original TBV’s would fully open at 90C but a revised part was retrofitted and that valve opened at 70C. The relevant TSB is easier to find and listed below.

http://[URL]https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2021/MC-10207911-9999.pdf

[/URL]

Note RPO code of MYC is 6L80 while MYD is 6L90 auto.

I tried to work out the opening/closing temperature so time ago. I haven’t managed to work it out. The aluminium block is just a set of fluid channels (and is a different shape or size in different applications), so the critical bit is the actual thermostat in the bypass valve.

I have a bypass valve and I can see the codes on the cover that goes over the thermostat, but I haven’t been able to conclusively workout the temperature. I’d be interested to know if anyone else knows how to read the code, or if the temperature code is actually on the internal thermostat.

 

[NJD-1992]

I’d expect the VF workshop manual PDF that you can find for download within the forum would indicate the fully open temp of the transmission fluid thermal bypass valve as used with our external cooler. I haven’t had a chance to look at it but you can find and download it and check it out yourself.

Weirdly, it doesn't. Ive got that file and currently Im actually looking at the ACDelco TDS portal (So up to date version)
Under "Transmission Cooling" and "Specifications" it only gives you faster torques and no other details, where as you know it normally gives you a full run down on the particular system. It may be buried somewhere else in the manual but I haven't found it

Also fun fact, if any Mac users here want to access the TDS Portal site for the most update service manuals etc, I suggest using Parallels and Windows to do so. If you just suspend Parrallels, it won't register your cut off time. I payed for a 3 day subscription (Its now only 1 Day).......over a year ago and still using it

I tried to work out the opening/closing temperature so time ago. I haven’t managed to work it out. The aluminium block is just a set of fluid channels (and is a different shape or size in different applications), so the critical bit is the actual thermostat in the bypass valve.

I have a bypass valve and I can see the codes on the cover that goes over the thermostat, but I haven’t been able to conclusively workout the temperature. I’d be interested to know if anyone else knows how to read the code, or if the temperature code is actually on the internal thermostat.

View attachment 261948

I removed the circlip and valve on mine to replace the o-rings given it came from used car. It's basically just a spring with a metal valve body (Looked like brass?) so no doubt just works on expansion of the metal. I ended up having to delay the upgrade, as the manual seems to imply the pre-formed pipes go in alot easier than they actually do. Though the manual only stipulates V8 models, and I think the aircon piping is different to the V6's for that (Its what's in the way) so going to have to remove more of the front end

 

[dassaur]

Weirdly, it doesn't. Ive got that file and currently Im actually looking at the ACDelco TDS portal (So up to date version)
Under "Transmission Cooling" and "Specifications" it only gives you faster torques and no other details, where as you know it normally gives you a full run down on the particular system. It may be buried somewhere else in the manual but I haven't found it

Also fun fact, if any Mac users here want to access the TDS Portal site for the most update service manuals etc, I suggest using Parallels and Windows to do so. If you just suspend Parrallels, it won't register your cut off time. I payed for a 3 day subscription (Its now only 1 Day).......over a year ago and still using it



I removed the circlip and valve on mine to replace the o-rings given it came from used car. It's basically just a spring with a metal valve body (Looked like brass?) so no doubt just works on expansion of the metal. I ended up having to delay the upgrade, as the manual seems to imply the pre-formed pipes go in alot easier than they actually do. Though the manual only stipulates V8 models, and I think the aircon piping is different to the V6's for that (Its what's in the way) so going to have to remove more of the front end

The preformed pipes should go in very easily. Be sure to remove the cover, pull the clip out (it's a weird shape), insert the pipe, pop the clip in, then push the cover back on.

What does the A/C piping have to do with trans cooling - or have I missed something?

 

[NJD-1992]

The preformed pipes should go in very easily. Be sure to remove the cover, pull the clip out (it's a weird shape), insert the pipe, pop the clip in, then push the cover back on.

What does the A/C piping have to do with trans cooling - or have I missed something?

More so me not clearly explaining

The quick connect fittings are dead easy as you mentioned.

Im referring to actually "routing" the pipes into the correct position to install them. The shape of them makes it rather tricky to manevour them around the radiator and thermo fans. On the V6 (Maybe there also on V8?) there is part of the AC condenser hose that is hanging down and makes it near impossible to (At least from what I can see) to install the pipes without removing the front air deflectors and the plastic that channels air into the radiator etc etc.

I was hoping that I could get away with just leaning the radiator back and snaking them round, no dice. I was able to get the mount bracket, thermo block and radiator in this way, but couldn't get the cooler pipes installed. At the folks place for Christmas, and didnt want to go too far disassembling the car and would rather do that back at home base

 

[dassaur]

More so me not clearly explaining

The quick connect fittings are dead easy as you mentioned.

Im referring to actually "routing" the pipes into the correct position to install them. The shape of them makes it rather tricky to manevour them around the radiator and thermo fans. On the V6 (Maybe there also on V8?) there is part of the AC condenser hose that is hanging down and makes it near impossible to (At least from what I can see) to install the pipes without removing the front air deflectors and the plastic that channels air into the radiator etc etc.

I was hoping that I could get away with just leaning the radiator back and snaking them round, no dice. I was able to get the mount bracket, thermo block and radiator in this way, but couldn't get the cooler pipes installed. At the folks place for Christmas, and didnt want to go too far disassembling the car and would rather do that back at home base

Understood.
The condensor is incredibly movable- unbolt it from the radiator and fans and you can completely move it out of the way while still attached to a/c hoses - seems the same for V8 and V6.

 

[NJD-1992]

As an update, ANZAC day project was a success, finally got around to mounting up the external cooler.

As per pics, if anyone tries this in the future, unbolting the impact bar and then lowering down the air inlet ducting, gives you ample room to route the pipes around the radiator.

Leaning the radiator back slightly lets you get the mount bracket in also.

And from my initial question, I ended up pre-filling the external radiator with transmission fluid, the doing the same to all the piping using a syringe and rubber house. Basically got it all mostly topped up, started and ran up to temp with no issues.

Given the lack of info for the OEM external transmission coolers, hopefully someone finds this helpful in the future!

 

[Redline457]

As an update, ANZAC day project was a success, finally got around to mounting up the external cooler.

As per pics, if anyone tries this in the future, unbolting the impact bar and then lowering down the air inlet ducting, gives you ample room to route the pipes around the radiator.

Leaning the radiator back slightly lets you get the mount bracket in also.

View attachment 267257

View attachment 267258

And from my initial question, I ended up pre-filling the external radiator with transmission fluid, the doing the same to all the piping using a syringe and rubber house. Basically got it all mostly topped up, started and ran up to temp with no issues.

Given the lack of info for the OEM external transmission coolers, hopefully someone finds this helpful in the future!

As an update, ANZAC day project was a success, finally got around to mounting up the external cooler.

As per pics, if anyone tries this in the future, unbolting the impact bar and then lowering down the air inlet ducting, gives you ample room to route the pipes around the radiator.

Leaning the radiator back slightly lets you get the mount bracket in also.

View attachment 267257

View attachment 267258

And from my initial question, I ended up pre-filling the external radiator with transmission fluid, the doing the same to all the piping using a syringe and rubber house. Basically got it all mostly topped up, started and ran up to temp with no issues.

Given the lack of info for the OEM external transmission coolers, hopefully someone finds this helpful in the future!

Great write up NJD thanks.