Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

VF SS Cold Air Intake options - my take on them...

Ron Burgundy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
4,830
Reaction score
4,307
Points
113
Location
NSW
Members Ride
VF II SS
With measurements as explained by K&N the filter RF-10420 should fit. All dimensions work. It is about 10mm shorter than Rotofab overall with the flange included. flange diameter, bottom width and top width with are all within spec. There is only about 12 mm difference in height of the filter media which I doubt would have any affect on performance.
i.e. k&n 165mm vs rotofab 177mm filter media height.

On special atm

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/K-N-Uni...349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
 
Last edited:

Ron Burgundy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
4,830
Reaction score
4,307
Points
113
Location
NSW
Members Ride
VF II SS
On thing I noticed over last 3 months. The intake elbow of rotofab intake is always super hot.

With OTR I recall the top plastic on otr being just warm even though the whole thing was on top of the radiator.

There is little doubt that OTR would always deliver coolest possible air, but I wonder if this would amount to significant difference in performance ?

I can really tell any significant difference in performance after switching to Rotofab. I think OTR sounds better and louder so that can be confused for better performance
 

MrBags

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
1,253
Reaction score
2,363
Points
113
Age
45
Location
Melbourne
Members Ride
VE SSV Z SERIES
I think the sound definitely adds to the appeal, that’s for sure.
 

Derekthetree

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 19, 2019
Messages
1,174
Reaction score
3,913
Points
113
Location
Victoria
Members Ride
Gen-F R8 SV Manual
On thing I noticed over last 3 months. The intake elbow of rotofab intake is always super hot.

With OTR I recall the top plastic on otr being just warm even though the whole thing was on top of the radiator.

There is little doubt that OTR would always deliver coolest possible air, but I wonder if this would amount to significant difference in performance ?

I can really tell any significant difference in performance after switching to Rotofab. I think OTR sounds better and louder so that can be confused for better performance

When are you touching it (;)), I guess there is more real estate from the elbow vs OTR direct tube for engine bay heat to sink into. Could also be a different type of plastic.

While the car is under load, and the throttle is actually open, it will be drawing in cool air via either route? The heat transfer under noticeable load (and therefore air throughput) would be minimal? Most high intake temps are from cars where the end of the pipe is in the engine bay?
 

bradp51

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2018
Messages
127
Reaction score
113
Points
43
Age
62
Location
Sydney
Members Ride
OCT 2017 VF2 SSV Redline - Light My Fire

Here is another Rotofab. I purchased the kit beginning of the year but only recently fitted it. I ordered the extra cover piece that they sell as well. I got the dry filter option.

I got the extra cover piece, the OEM radiator cover, the intake tube, a flange that Rotofab uses to connect to the airbus, the frame of the perspex cover, and fuse box in the engine bay all aqua dipped in a carbon fibre effect. I knew that will all the nice shiny gloss fake CF that the standard Rotofab airbox might look a bit plain. I painted it gloss black with a special plastic paint, but I was not happy with the job I did so got a painter to do it. While I had the MAF piece off I painted that in gloss black as well. Being a small job it was good enough to pass muster

The USA Chevy SS has the sound tube set up on the other side so in the Rotofab kit it exits on the inside of the 90 degree intake tube. They supply a straight fitting but I changed it to a 90 deg one which exits down. I then did another 90 deg joint which goes under the intake bend. Another 90 deg bend sends it to the OEM part of the sound tube immediately prior to the valve that opens or closes. I used 25mm ID rubber heater hose and covered it with CF wrap to make it look better. The CF wrap is just temporary, and I am going to try and use another black braid cover that I have seen later on down the track. Before fitting I saw that the top radiator hose passed under the air intake system. So I wrapped it in heat wrap which was a pain to do. I also decided to use some heat shield foil on the bottom of the airbus. Anywhere you were not going to see it, I covered with that heat shield. While I had the MAF off I gave it a dose of CRC Mass Airflow cleaner.

The last thing I did to spruce the engine bay was to put several coats of clear over the engine cover. When I purchase my car I splashed out a few weeks later for the GM red engine cover. It is the same as the OEM except it says V8 in silver paint and some it has red paint. It looks quite glossy now. Will attach some pictures after I work out how to resize them so the forum accepts them. Here is the OEM although you can see in this shot I have already repainted the MAF in gloss black.

Added a pic of the radiator hose wrap. Looks untidy. I ended up moving the hose clamps around. I will add more pics later. It is a bit time consuming.
Radiator Hose wrapped.jpg
OEM engine bay.jpg
 
Last edited:

Ron Burgundy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2004
Messages
4,830
Reaction score
4,307
Points
113
Location
NSW
Members Ride
VF II SS
Here is another Rotofab. I purchased the kit beginning of the year but only recently fitted it. I ordered the extra cover piece that they sell as well. I got the dry filter option.

I got the extra cover piece, the OEM radiator cover, the intake tube, a flange that Rotofab uses to connect to the airbus, the frame of the perspex cover, and fuse box in the engine bay all aqua dipped in a carbon fibre effect. I knew that will all the nice shiny gloss fake CF that the standard Rotofab airbox might look a bit plain. I painted it gloss black with a special plastic paint, but I was not happy with the job I did so got a painter to do it. While I had the MAF piece off I painted that in gloss black as well. Being a small job it was good enough to pass muster

The USA Chevy SS has the sound tube set up on the other side so in the Rotofab kit it exits on the inside of the 90 degree intake tube. They supply a straight fitting but I changed it to a 90 deg one which exits down. I then did another 90 deg joint which goes under the intake bend. Another 90 deg bend sends it to the OEM part of the sound tube immediately prior to the valve that opens or closes. I used 25mm ID rubber heater hose and covered it with CF wrap to make it look better. The CF wrap is just temporary, and I am going to try and use another black braid cover that I have seen later on down the track. Before fitting I saw that the top radiator hose passed under the air intake system. So I wrapped it in heat wrap which was a pain to do. I also decided to use some heat shield foil on the bottom of the airbus. Anywhere you were not going to see it, I covered with that heat shield. While I had the MAF off I gave it a dose of CRC Mass Airflow cleaner.

The last thing I did to spruce the engine bay was to put several coats of clear over the engine cover. When I purchase my car I splashed out a few weeks later for the GM red engine cover. It is the same as the OEM except it says V8 in silver paint and some it has red paint. It looks quite glossy now. Will attach some pictures after I work out how to resize them so the forum accepts them. Here is the OEM although you can see in this shot I have already repainted the MAF in gloss black.

Added a pic of the radiator hose wrap. Looks untidy. I ended up moving the hose clamps around. I will add more pics later. It is a bit time consuming.
View attachment 242104View attachment 242103

Where did you get 90 degree elbow from; the one that scews into the intake pipe ?
 

bradp51

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2018
Messages
127
Reaction score
113
Points
43
Age
62
Location
Sydney
Members Ride
OCT 2017 VF2 SSV Redline - Light My Fire
Where did you get 90 degree elbow from; the one that scews into the intake pipe ?
Hello Ron
I purchased quite a few from different places. It is BSP 1 inch thread with a 25mm male push on which fitted the 25mm inner diameter hose I used.
I got caught out wasting money and more importantly time ordering different ones which did not fit as the thread was tapered.
In the end I think a Pope Bunnings part number I/N3126489 fitted.
I am not 100% sure as I purchased about 6 or 7 things that did not work from suppliers over the net. Take the supplied RotoFab one with you when go.
The lesson I learned was some BSP is tapered some not.
 

bradp51

Active Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2018
Messages
127
Reaction score
113
Points
43
Age
62
Location
Sydney
Members Ride
OCT 2017 VF2 SSV Redline - Light My Fire
Here is some more photos from Post #67. Now that I have worked out how to resize the photos. :)

This is the MAF sensor before I glossed it. You can see the difference compared to the "after" in post #67.
MAF before.jpg


Took the chance to clean the MAF
MAF cleaner.jpg


This next photo shows some heat shield I applied to the Rotofab airbox. I only applied it where you could not see it, underneath and to the sides
Applying heat reflector to the Rotofab airbox.jpg


Here is a shot of the finished product. Note the black alloy window washer tank cap which comes with the kit if you buy the extra cover piece.
Engine bay 2.jpg

Those with a keen eye will see that when I took this photo I had not reinstalled some of the plastic pins. I actually purchased the label that warns about opening a "hot radiator cap" You can see the rectangular shaped intent in the radiator cover where the sticker goes. I purchased it as an OEM part. I also purchased a spare fuze box cover and radiator cover so I can take this back to OEM anytime.
I plan to replace some of the OEM fasteners with some nice black Ti fasteners.

I had to put some thin black rubber washers on some bolts to ensure not to damage the aqua dip CF film. Next job is to replace the OEM heater hoses and reposition them down along the offside of the engine as others have done.

I also have some plans for the plastic engine cover to improve cooling rather than just leaving it off. All in good time.

Engine bay 1 .jpg
 
Top