Vibration

[Wacko]

Hi, I have an annoying vibration that starts at about 110km and gets worse from there,
I've have had my wheels balanced twice, changed front brake rotors, changed castor and radius bushes, changed the harmonic balancer, torqued the wheel nuts and its still doing it. I feel the vibration through the steering wheel and my bum, and still does it if I take it out of gear.
Its driving me mental, any idea of what it might be will be appreciated, thanks.

 

[pittyonyx]

Tailshaft bearing maybe?

 

[pittyonyx]

Or could be a bad tyre or a buckle in a rim could do it? Just my 2 cents

 

[simple wagon]

^^^ possibly any of the above, but surely the tyre place would of told you if the wheels were buckled. did you go to 2 different shops for wheel balance?

 

[Wacko]

Yeah I went to two different places and watched them do it, the wheels were good, I haven't hit anything or locked them up.

 

[426Cuda]

Just a few thoughts: When did it start, was it sudden or gradually worsening over time. Is it worse under load than coasting in neutral? Worse when braking, even lightly? Is it handling as normal? If you can, check for movement in the steering components, including the radius rods. Measure the distance from the rear of the front wheels to the guards. They should be the same both sides, but can be out by quite a bit. The brackets where the stabilizer bar bolts on can come loose. This is often missed by suspension shops too.

 

[Wacko]

It started when I got new suspension on the car, it does get slightly worse under load but not much, I had all the bushes replaced.

 

[bfhoon]

Just a few thoughts: When did it start, was it sudden or gradually worsening over time. Is it worse under load than coasting in neutral? Worse when braking, even lightly? Is it handling as normal? If you can, check for movement in the steering components, including the radius rods. Measure the distance from the rear of the front wheels to the guards. They should be the same both sides, but can be out by quite a bit. The brackets where the stabilizer bar bolts on can come loose. This is often missed by suspension shops too.

I just done the above myself measuring that is and I cam up with the below

Driver side side skirt edge to inside tread marker 95mm top of guard to top of rim 150mm
Passenger side skirt edge to inside tread marker 91mm top of guard to top of rim 155mm

I also notice when i directly jack the car up from the front and in the middle the drivers side wheel always needs a bit more to get of the ground whereas the passenger side you can spin the wheel early while the drivers side is still stuck and not fully elevated? First car I have owned that has done this and the floor is level in the garage. Also when I lower it you can see the wheels spreading out like they actually slide outwards until they find a spot they sit at? Is all this normal because I too have the same issue the op has.

 

[426Cuda]

All sounds normal to me. But I'm no expert. The jacking up scenario you describe is likely just as a result of the jack not being in exact centre from a weight distribution perspective. While the 5mm top of wheel height is probably just due to floor level variation. A mm or two in floor levels over the length of the wheels, and diagonally will make a difference to this height. As will having the wheels turned slightly, tyre pressures etc.

I don't know about he measurements you've quoted, and would suggest the 4mm difference may be due to the wheels not being dead centre. I can tell you that on my VF the measurement form the centre of the hub to the guard at the rear of the rim, with the tape level is around 395mm. This should be constant irrespective of rim / tyre size. If there is a difference in this measurement then it might pay to get a shop to have a look at the wheel alignment.

 

[NZ-GTR]

Are the tyres at the right pressure? I was running mine too soft at 36 psi on 19's and had annoying steering wheel vibration. Now I run at 42 psi and it runs smooth as a babys.