vl cuts out when warm!?

[vlrad]

Another thing that I just realised - slow left hand corners are always about 250metres just before the car stops. If fuel is less than half tank, air might be getting into the fuel lines, being pumped up to the engine. After the car stops when I try to start it - it is like it is getting fuel again, gradually though- if it was electrical then the car would just go on with a turn of the key after 10 minutes. When it starts to cut out - it is like a light bulb flickering or like it is swollowing air instead of fuel.

 

[Jono_VL]

yeah the same thing happens to me.... for about 5 mins before it cuts out it starts misfiring (kinda like the flickering light bulb).
Also now that ya mention it, a few times i have just been sitting in my car with the ignition ON waiting for the car to cool down, when all of a sudden i hear the fuel pump kick back in!! wtf?! surely that doesnt mean the pump(s) need replacing does it, coz they seem to work fine when cold. funny thing is its its prolly such a simple problem

 

[vlrad]

Try changing the horn relay or other xxxxx451 to your fuel relay - make sure same number of relays that is both xxxxxx451. This fixed mine a little while.

 

[YKORAY]

take plugs off your injectors and spray some water dispersant in them/ or contact cleaner.. allow 5-10 mins, plugem bak up and give it a go. may just have moisture build-up

 

[vlrad]

my VL cut out again today - went and saw the EFI specialist, again - he just said flog the car off and buy one from him - no ethics, but I would say plenty of dollars. He should stopping advertising as repair and go into sales.

Last thing I did was got the oxygen sensor talking to computer - today another potential fix - I got the red light to flash in time with the green one (2000rpm and position A on computer screw). VL's computers, if have problem run mix rich. I reckon that I was running rich all the time.

When the car was cold the car loved it. When the car got hotter the mix was way to rich for the thinner air. I think this because if the car stopped, I would pull fuse 3, turn the key - staving the motor of fuel. Put the fuse 3 back in and the car would start straight away.

Going for a test drive at 9.30 tonight - think I have it this time.

 

[vlrad]

The mechanic reckon I was made when I told him if I sold the VL I would buy another one to do up. I reckon he was mad to think I would rather power up in a corolla (shopping for the ladies) then sit in a VL.

 

[vlrad]

I watched the tacho when I turned the ignition off - drop fast as. I replaced the external fuel pump today and I think the gremlines causing the downtime after 30mins have moved out of the old car.

 

[coolngroovy]

I thought that was the crankangle sensor?

 

[VL_WAGON]

I have the same problem my VL stops when hot but will be fine on the motor way as long as I have got speed up, but if I turn the car off it won't start again or if im in traffic or sitting at the lights the car starts to stutter and finally dies. I notice the tacho meter flickers, to this leads me to think its the CAS (crank angle sensor) when it completely dies the tacho does not even move when winding it over I think this might happen when the coil dies to but im not sure. But if I wait 15-30 mins it will start fine again, also when its starts to miss after being in traffic but I get it moving again before it cuts out it will stop at say 2000RPM and won’t go over that then 2500 3000 4000 5000 after a good long time driving at speed it comes right allowing it to reach max RPM. My plug on the CAS sensor was heavily corroded and lose and the rubber cover the plug was rotted away I think moisture has found its way into the CAS sensor and temperature is the catalyst to the problem.

 

[Bucket]

have you replaced the CAS before, is your car really hot when it conks out (by hot i mean over half). Dont ask me why but i have a hunch that when the CAS is faulty the car doesnt run so well and runs hotter which is a catalyst for the CAS to fail. Just a theory but im relying on some feedback here. Check it out anyway, see what happens.

The reason i asked about the replacing of the CAS, i read elsewhere that crappy CAS's imported from taiwan or china tend to fail at high temperatures, even in cases of 6 months old.