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VL poor fuel economy-check this

ucwepn

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so which one is the sensor? the yellow two pin plug or the small black slide one?
 

Bax

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Small black slide in one. PS I can't remember what we were talking about.. I'm assuming its the coolant temp sensor.
 

ucwepn

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coz if it is the 2 pin yellow plug, one of my clips is broken that holds it on, would this stop it from making good contact with the pins? it just seems to sit there it doesn't come off but its not secure at all, what is involved in changing the plug?
 

ucwepn

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cheers gonna break out the sand paper coz its dirty as hell
 

Bucket

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get a little flat blade or one of mums metal skewers and scratch the bugger like a flea ridden dog till its shinny again so you will get a good contact, if it looks like a vynle floor of a kitchen after an 18th B\day party and no lustre, it needs a buff!
 

Decksta

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So if this plug is used by the dash and the ecu then if the temp gauge never come up to operating temp but the engine is warm then you would have a problem???? yes
 

TAILS83

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or it could be the thermostat. if thats stuck open then it ain't going to warm up. meaning it will be in cold start mode. i changed the thermostat in mine the other day. thermostat opens when the gauge gets to half way(obviously this is operating temp).
before it would sit on the very first mark and thats it. still to see if i get more than 200KM/tank. as the dizzy **** it's self, i fixed it but go no money now to get a timming light lol. but yeah, car runs alot more smoother now. so ireckon fuel econ will be better. also i adjusted the AFM to standard setting of 382ohms, it was at like 336ohms.
 

VLACS

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TAILS83 said:
or it could be the thermostat. if thats stuck open then it ain't going to warm up. meaning it will be in cold start mode. i changed the thermostat in mine the other day. thermostat opens when the gauge gets to half way(obviously this is operating temp).
before it would sit on the very first mark and thats it. still to see if i get more than 200KM/tank. as the dizzy **** it's self, i fixed it but go no money now to get a timming light lol. but yeah, car runs alot more smoother now. so ireckon fuel econ will be better. also i adjusted the AFM to standard setting of 382ohms, it was at like 336ohms.


whats up with the ohms for the afm. could you explain that to me
 

Bucket

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volts not ohms. Plug a multimeter into the two end wires on the afm and you should get about 3.6-4V, if not, turn the screw left/right till you get it. Give it a day or two and check to make sure it stays same.
 

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Bucket said:
volts not ohms. Plug a multimeter into the two end wires on the afm and you should get about 3.6-4V, if not, turn the screw left/right till you get it. Give it a day or two and check to make sure it stays same.

well that maybe one way(but it's actually a test to see if it's functioning), as in described in the gregories manual(although the way u described it is wrong way of doing it anyway). you may need to read the gregories manual to see what i mean.

the other way to actually put it to the correct setting, is to put a multi-meter to the 2 end wires(terminal 1 and 6 on the AFM) and and get a reading of 382ohms. if u don't turn the crew till u do. easy as. puts it to the factory setting.
 
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