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VL runs on 3 cylinders!! unplug 1 injector and runs on 5
- Thread starter DOORMY
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Tree cutter
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It could be getting too much fuel with all injectors plugged in. If the vacuum hose has fallen off the fuel pressure regulator you will have high fuel pressure at idle so your engine will run rich. Pull a spark plug out and check to see if it is black from running rich.
siroller
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deffinetly pull out those plugs to check for richness. I should have explained in more detail but you can tell a lot about how a car is running from the plugs.
I'd still be looking at any fuel blockages. that makes logical sense to me thats all. is the pump wired up ciorrectly? I haven't done it but my father replaced the in tank pump and couldn't figure out why the hell the car wouldn't run properly. he had it wired in reverse so it was fighting against the main pump....
other than that the vac lines on the pressure regulater is a good suggestion. you said the afm is properly adjusted?
I'd still be looking at any fuel blockages. that makes logical sense to me thats all. is the pump wired up ciorrectly? I haven't done it but my father replaced the in tank pump and couldn't figure out why the hell the car wouldn't run properly. he had it wired in reverse so it was fighting against the main pump....
other than that the vac lines on the pressure regulater is a good suggestion. you said the afm is properly adjusted?
DOORMY
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Finally got the engine purring !! what I first done was remove the computer and swap it with my other vl computer
that is working fine in the other car. No change to engine at all, so I put the original computer back in.
Then swapped distributors!! again the same , no change still running rough!! so then I thought to put back the other computer
from my other vl, and guess what its running beautiful. At the end of the day I would imagine the CAS was stuffed as well as
the computer, because no change was made to the engine running rough using the computer and distributor separately!! both
had to be together to fix the problem, Luckily I had the other vl for parts. Thanks everyone for you input!! much appreciated.
that is working fine in the other car. No change to engine at all, so I put the original computer back in.
Then swapped distributors!! again the same , no change still running rough!! so then I thought to put back the other computer
from my other vl, and guess what its running beautiful. At the end of the day I would imagine the CAS was stuffed as well as
the computer, because no change was made to the engine running rough using the computer and distributor separately!! both
had to be together to fix the problem, Luckily I had the other vl for parts. Thanks everyone for you input!! much appreciated.
bachig24u
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step 1. disconnect MAF/AFM and start engine? any difference? note: it is normal for the engine to only rev to about 2000rpm.
step 2. disconnect battery for 10 minutes, unplug the 02 sensor in the exhaust, reconnect battery, start engine? Any difference?
Is the car turbo'd? be worth checking for air leaks.
With your experiments with injector unpluggin, you may have discover that 2,4,6 and 1,3,5 are connected together.
basically if either one from either batch is firing, this illiminates the ECU as a fault.
have you check the ECU for fault codes, sometimes they can help. dial the adjustments gently to the end clockwise (270deg).
the red and green leds flash.
ECU Leds
Turn Diagnostic selector fully clockwise then and start engine.
errors; 11=CAS, 12=MAF, 13=CTemp cct, 14=VSS, 21=ign cct, 23=TPS, 24=Neutral, 31=A/C (ignore), 32=Starter cct, 34=VLT-knock, 44=A/C (ignore).
a red LED is 10's and Green is 1's (eg. error 31 will be 3 red flashes and 1 green then it goes to next error if not then it repeats)
to reset codes, have reds on and turns diag selector fully clockwise for 2 secs and fully anticlockwise for 2 secs then turn off reds.
some codes are normal, speed sensor, neutral, A/C.
Also check nice smooth fuel flow from the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator, no pulses etc. (should be smooth like a garden hose after 7 seconds).
If it still pulses after a 30 seconds, theres a problem. If you try to put your thumb over the hose to block fuel coming out it should turn into an unstoppable fine mist.
when bypassing fuel pump relay, don't follow the service manual they are often wrong and you'll blow ECU pump circuit to another world.
only connections closet to driver and front of vehicle should be connected (terminals 30, 87 on relay).
let us know how you go.
buggar .. took me that long to write this, is it still fixed? often the CAS plugs corode causing intermittent issues. sometime heat related.
I'd like to know if the ECU still works !!! It's a little unusually to kill them both.
step 2. disconnect battery for 10 minutes, unplug the 02 sensor in the exhaust, reconnect battery, start engine? Any difference?
Is the car turbo'd? be worth checking for air leaks.
With your experiments with injector unpluggin, you may have discover that 2,4,6 and 1,3,5 are connected together.
basically if either one from either batch is firing, this illiminates the ECU as a fault.
have you check the ECU for fault codes, sometimes they can help. dial the adjustments gently to the end clockwise (270deg).
the red and green leds flash.
ECU Leds
Turn Diagnostic selector fully clockwise then and start engine.
errors; 11=CAS, 12=MAF, 13=CTemp cct, 14=VSS, 21=ign cct, 23=TPS, 24=Neutral, 31=A/C (ignore), 32=Starter cct, 34=VLT-knock, 44=A/C (ignore).
a red LED is 10's and Green is 1's (eg. error 31 will be 3 red flashes and 1 green then it goes to next error if not then it repeats)
to reset codes, have reds on and turns diag selector fully clockwise for 2 secs and fully anticlockwise for 2 secs then turn off reds.
some codes are normal, speed sensor, neutral, A/C.
Also check nice smooth fuel flow from the fuel rail to the fuel pressure regulator, no pulses etc. (should be smooth like a garden hose after 7 seconds).
If it still pulses after a 30 seconds, theres a problem. If you try to put your thumb over the hose to block fuel coming out it should turn into an unstoppable fine mist.
when bypassing fuel pump relay, don't follow the service manual they are often wrong and you'll blow ECU pump circuit to another world.
only connections closet to driver and front of vehicle should be connected (terminals 30, 87 on relay).
let us know how you go.
buggar .. took me that long to write this, is it still fixed? often the CAS plugs corode causing intermittent issues. sometime heat related.
I'd like to know if the ECU still works !!! It's a little unusually to kill them both.
Last edited:
Munz
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What? 20 days to write a post? lmao
DOORMY
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Thanks for the long post and your time doing so !! the car is still running beautiful !! just put some extractors on it and 2.5 exhaust !!
Changed the rear drums to disc with slotted discs all round !! hsv vt 18 inch rims!! going to put a 5 speed in it as I have 2 spare wagons which
one has the 5 speed! hoping to put an aero kit on it !! back bumper will have to be modified to fit my wagon !! lowered it a bit in the ass and doing the front
soon got the springs though. Want to put a thicker sway bar in the rear !! thinking a vn wagon one might fit !! heaps I want to do.
Changed the rear drums to disc with slotted discs all round !! hsv vt 18 inch rims!! going to put a 5 speed in it as I have 2 spare wagons which
one has the 5 speed! hoping to put an aero kit on it !! back bumper will have to be modified to fit my wagon !! lowered it a bit in the ass and doing the front
soon got the springs though. Want to put a thicker sway bar in the rear !! thinking a vn wagon one might fit !! heaps I want to do.