VN fuel pressure regulator

[85commolux]

Yeah I only have the one memcal so I just swap them around. The code is AWUZ which I believe to be 91 VP manual

 

[85commolux]

Just an update if anyone is interested. I think I have found my problem. It is a short somewhere in the wiring in the Hilux. I pulled a 30a fusible link out and away she went, so I need to spend the day tomorrow finding out where the short is, as with it unplugged I have no voltage to my volt and oil pressure gauges. I am however still having problems with the MAP. I checked the voltage to the wires and the reference wire shows 5.0 v, the signal wire shows 4.7 v and 1.6 v @ idle. Still showing up on check engine light too. I have swapped it out for another one off my mates Jeep as they use the same one and its still the same.

 

[Cheap6]

Yep, still interested (I guess that's one ).

Those MAP voltages look OK. I'm guessing that in Tumut you're not at sea level, where the engine off voltage might be closer to the reference - it's an absolute pressure gauge i.e. pressure relative to a perfect vacuum.

One check might be to compare the voltages with the sensor(s) in the Jeep with those from in the Hilux - they should be pretty close to identical. 0.1V or so difference is OK.

Maybe see what happens with the MAP code after the short is sorted.

 

[85commolux]

Yep, still interested (I guess that's one ).

Those MAP voltages look OK. I'm guessing that in Tumut you're not at sea level, where the engine off voltage might be closer to the reference - it's an absolute pressure gauge i.e. pressure relative to a perfect vacuum.

One check might be to compare the voltages with the sensor(s) in the Jeep with those from in the Hilux - they should be pretty close to identical. 0.1V or so difference is OK.

Maybe see what happens with the MAP code after the short is sorted.

I am pretty sure the short is gone, as the circuit isn't operating and the code still comes up. Is it possible for the MAP to read the correct voltages even if it is stuffed? The fan also comes on after its been running, I didn't know because I had it switched off. I am not 100% certain that the MAP I got off the jeep is good either as his car was running off straight gas and disconnecting the MAP made no diff to the engine performance.

 

[delcowizzid]

did you reset the ecu after changing sensors or it will show the old code still

 

[85commolux]

Yeah reset it. The light comes on after about 5 or 10 secs then it starts to run like crap. I checked the vacuum again and its at about 17" Hg @ idle.

 

[delcowizzid]

if its idling at 1.6V its about normal around 30kpa

 

[85commolux]

if its idling at 1.6V its about normal around 30kpa

So I wonder why the light keeps coming on? As I said is it possible for it to read the right voltages and still be buggered?

 

[delcowizzid]

could be a bad earth or TPS sensor effecting it

 

[Cheap6]

Posts #14 and #17 cover the criteria to set the codes. It's what the ECM sees that matters though. The voltages can read fine at the sensor but be something different at the ECM.

Obviously we don't know how you are checking the voltages. Just in case, one way is to use dressmakers pin's pushed in next to the ECM connector terminals, with the anti back out combs removed, (not through the wires as someone else did when I tried to explain the same thing) and measure off them.

The ECM can also be faulty and throw false codes.

The fan will come on in limp home mode with some fault codes and with the diagnostic link shorted, engine off, ignition on.

If it's always on, that's a short to earth on the relay, if it's still wired the same way as in a Commodore. The short to earth can be in/through the ECM.

Perhaps there's more not quite right with the wiring? How did you set it up?