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vn overheated now not running

E-T-H-A-N

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i picked the car up today, dropped the water and it runs. not well, but it runs. the next step is to pull the inlet manifold off and heads off. either way i want to pull it apart. its the head im sure of it.

yeah its a s1 with a s2 rad lol, didnt even notice that.

yeah the oil is milky.

so i should get the heads off assap and suck all the water out ?
 

pjdm1980

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With whats happened to this motor your throwing good money after bad trying to repair this motor just grab a $200 low klm motor.
 

E-T-H-A-N

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it hasnt really been through that much though, i found out why it was overheating, the inlet manifold was leaking something chronic, and the water jets are caked with **** pretty badly. we wont know untill i have the heads off though, im hoping to have them off tomorrow night.
 

E-T-H-A-N

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i got the left hand side head off, no signs of water in the bores, no obvius signs of a leaking gasket, will get the dirvers side off tomorrow and send them away to get crack tested, i dont see the point in getting another motor when i want to cam and port, polish and deck the heads on this, so if i bought another engine i would still have to pull the heads off anyway ?
 

Jxfwsf

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get a vr v6, better more refined base to start with, better still get an ecotec, if the engine has been cooked it's a waste of time, vr heads will bolt straight onto that block with the vp/vr inlet manifold if you intend wasting time and money on the weaker s1 engine.
They refined it to the ev6 for a reason instead of going through with the late 80's design, probably cheaper to buy vr heads with factory roller rockers 2nd hand than send the crappy s1 heads off apart from they're cast iron and chances of them cracking in a stock engine are pretty slim even if they were abused......... not to mention the crap 2 piece rope rear mains seal that always leaks and requires the engine to be pulled out of the car and crank shaft removed to replace in the s1 boat anchors.

As for over heating unless the coolant pipes are rerouted correctly (more trouble and to much stuffing around to do, much easier to put the proper rad in) when putting a s2 radiator into a s1 that'll cause half the issues, in a s1 it continually cycles the water and bleeds automatically, putting a s2 rad in and just blocking off extra hoses stops that and you'll likely get air pockets in the heads and manifold as the s2 manifolds route the coolant differently and have the manual bleeder.
 
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E-T-H-A-N

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its costing nothing to get the heads done lol. my best mate is a machinest. i wont go eco because if i want to boost it later on its a huge head####, the buick is far better because they already run a map sensor.

the right head is fine... it was never cooked id say, although the water jackets are caked as all hell, the shitty running was coming from else where. but heads are off now, may aswell get them done now.
 

Jxfwsf

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thrashing the crap out of it for half an hour till it turns into a steam engine then ceases to run after wards, sounds like it got cooked to me, just cause it turns over and kinda runs now without water doesn't mean it's a good basis to get going again let alone build a boosted v6 like you want to with it eventually.
I must've misunderstood the meaning of
any input would be appreciated!
as not just myself have mentioned problems with that setup you have, good luck with your adventure.... hopefully it runs okay for you and you don't have to come back here asking more questions at why it doesn't run properly or continue to overheat........
 

VTSSDUDE

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It's a Holden engine, it will be right.
 

Jxfwsf

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It's a Holden engine, it will be right.

lawl, the old holden red 6's were bullet proof these aren't so much :p i once seized a 202 from the sump plug working it's way loose, heard a funny dry lifter noise multiplied by 12 followed by a pretty quick stop in a 100km zone... threw it in gear when i was being towed home and dumped the clutch twice, got her spinning again, put more oil in it and away it went again, couldn't do that with a buick 3800 :p
 

VTSSDUDE

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Do a compression test after putting your heads back on, if all good. I can't see why the engine wouldn't be okay. I imagine boosting the engine you will be replacing your internals on anyway.
 
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