VP V8 clutch fork and throw out bearing adjustment

[MasterOfReality]

Hi guys.

Got a new T5 clutch fork and steel throw out bearing The pivot ball has been pre set at 105 mm and I’m going to install the clutch fork and bearing soon.

With the clutch cable off, should there be a gap between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers?

Thanks!

 

[waikato willy]

I always thought you were meant to have a gap , how wrong was I , regardless of what clutch fork or bearing they are mean to run all the time , this is straight from my hook up at Clutch Industries , that burnt look on the pressure plate fingers is from the bearing constantly trying to speed up when the clutch is pressed , I went through all of this with my set up

 

[MasterOfReality]

I always thought you were meant to have a gap , how wrong was I , regardless of what clutch fork or bearing they are mean to run all the time , this is straight from my hook up at Clutch Industries , that burnt look on the pressure plate fingers is from the bearing constantly trying to speed up when the clutch is pressed , I went through all of this with my set up

Thanks. That makes sense.

I was told by Mal Wood that the clutch takes 12 mm of movement to release, so I could measure from the block face to the fingers to get the initial bearing location on the input shaft. Then adjust the pivot ball to fine tune the position of the bearing.

I guess it’s preferable to have the bite point when the pedal is not far off the floor, as it reduces load on the clutch fingers (if bite point is high and you smash the clutch pedal to the floor, higher load on fingers).

I’ll try the default 105mm pivot ball setting first and see how that goes.

 

[vc commodore]

The way I adjust the clutch with my VC is, have the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal.

If there isn't enough cable sticking through the bellhousing, I'll adjust the pivot ball.....

It is easy with my bellhousing, as it is half a housing...Not sure how yours compares though

I have posted a picture of a bellhousing similar to mine, showing the big gap at the top of the picture, which happens to be the bottom of the housing

I also find, if you can select reverse easy, it generally means you have got it alright


I've never used measurements from any point and so far so good after 15 odd years of manual commodores..

 

[gtrboyy]

I just use factory specs then see how they go...usually fine when all parts are new,

Tbh do think as long as bearing free spins easily when released it should be good.

Vn/p have a measurement from floor to pedal when setting them up.

 

[MasterOfReality]

Ok that's great, thanks. So there should be a little gap between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers when released, or should the bearing be in contact (just) with the pressure plate fingers?

I have the pics from the factory manual for the pivot ball and pedal height so all sweet there.

 

[MasterOfReality]

The way I adjust the clutch with my VC is, have the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal.

If there isn't enough cable sticking through the bellhousing, I'll adjust the pivot ball.....

It is easy with my bellhousing, as it is half a housing...Not sure how yours compares though

From memory I can't get to the pivot ball once the bellhousing is mounted to the box. I'll check when I get back from site.

 

[Smitty]

From memory I can't get to the pivot ball once the bellhousing is mounted to the box. I'll check when I get back from site.

... only possible on early carb engines with 3/4 bellhousings (open at the bottom with the bolt on tin cover)

just NOT possible with later full circle bellhousings ... although I am aware ppl have cut a HOLE (!)
in the top oif the bellhousing above the pivot ball to adjust it. Don't recommend that!

 

[MasterOfReality]

Ok so I used the factory pivot ball measurement of 105 mm, and I basically have to wind the cable right out to get the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal. So something isn't right.

The box needs to come out for other reasons so it will be a good idea to re-adjust it.

Are there any guides on how to set the pivot ball height if the clutch kit didn't come with any specs?

When the clutch cable is hooked up, is there a specific position the fork needs to be in?

Does the throw out bearing need to contact the pressure plate fingers or should there be an airgap? I keep finding conflicting info on this.

 

[MasterOfReality]

Pulled the box back out and dummied up the bellhousing with the clutch fork and bearing installed. Repeated a few times and adjusted the ball height (increased the distance) so when the clutch cable is hooked up, the fork is pretty much parallel to the clutch and the bearing is touching the fingers. The fork position is approx middle of the window.

I think the cable is too long as I had to add spacers and the adjustment is maxxed out to get correct pedal height.

However, it drives and changes gears nicely. The clutch starts to bite at around 50% pedal travel. There is a bit of a ticking/rattle noise when the foot is off the clutch in neutral but it goes away when the clutch is pressed in. Might be the throw out bearing or I just haven't done the primary fork adjustment correctly. Also I don't have the insulating plate and centre console installed so every sound is amplified.

I'll leave it for now, if it annoys me too much or gets worse I'll get a workshop to sort it out properly.