VR Acclaim 6 starting issues/possible solutions.

[Dunlop]

For a few weeks now my VR would periodically not want to start - after a few turns of the key, it would then start. All warning lights would come on, the battery is fine (although reading about 12.45 volts), and battery terminal clamps cleaned. Spark plugs are fairly new and so are the plug leads. This problem occurred about five years ago and I was going to buy a used ignition switch from my Holden mechanic but never did as the problem disappeared.

Tonight I drove a short way to the supermarket, came out to the car, and it refused to start despite multiple attempts As before, all dashboard lights came on but it wouldn't turn over with no 'click' when the key was turned. Cleaned the negative battery clamp (had issues in the past), checked the voltage, still wouldn't start. In the end I called the RACV - the patrol car has to come from a nearby town and often takes 20 minutes or so. Hmmm.

In the meantime I checked the manual which says "If the engine won't turn over, press the black button on the key fob" which I found out should disengage the anti theft system if the circuit to the key isn't connecting to the ignition circuit, so I did - and car started...Called the RACV agent and explained what happened and that car was running - poor fellow had just arrived. Drove home. About two hours later I started the engine again after about two or three key turns and drove a short way to the local pub. Came out a short time later, and the car wouldn't start again... same issue. I was thinking about leaving it there overnight as I didn't want to call the RACV again at 10.30pm.

Then I recalled when I couldn't start the car about five years ago - couldn't understand it. I called the RACV and a rather cluey young Indian mechanic came. He said "Have you pushed the shift lever (auto) right forward to the end (of Park)?" I said "Yes I always do". I thought this was bit odd. So I pushed it firmly right against the edge of the console slot - the engine started... Apparently the switch connected to the base of the shift lever can either wear over time and/or oxidise, so the circuit doesn't complete and the system doesn't think the lever is in Park yet. As a safety feature the engine won't start unless full Park position is recognised. So I tried pushing the lever firmly forward - and the engine started.

If you have this same problem, you might need to spray the lever position switch with contact cleaner or maybe replace it, but in the meantime, try to push the lever as firmly as possible forward to the end of the slot.

If the prob with my starting continues, I'll try to post to follow up, but it looks like this has hopefully solved the problem for the time being.

Hope this helps.

 

[MikeC]

For a few weeks now my VR would periodically not want to start - after a few turns of the key, it would then start. All warning lights would come on, the battery is fine (although reading about 12.45 volts), and battery terminal clamps cleaned. Spark plugs are fairly new and so are the plug leads. This problem occurred about five years ago and I was going to buy a used ignition switch from my Holden mechanic but never did as the problem disappeared.

Tonight I drove a short way to the supermarket, came out to the car, and it refused to start despite multiple attempts As before, all dashboard lights came on but it wouldn't turn over with no 'click' when the key was turned. Cleaned the negative battery clamp (had issues in the past), checked the voltage, still wouldn't start. In the end I called the RACV - the patrol car has to come from a nearby town and often takes 20 minutes or so. Hmmm.

In the meantime I checked the manual which says "If the engine won't turn over, press the black button on the key fob" which I found out should disengage the anti theft system if the circuit to the key isn't connecting to the ignition circuit, so I did - and car started...Called the RACV agent and explained what happened and that car was running - poor fellow had just arrived. Drove home. About two hours later I started the engine again after about two or three key turns and drove a short way to the local pub. Came out a short time later, and the car wouldn't start again... same issue. I was thinking about leaving it there overnight as I didn't want to call the RACV again at 10.30pm.

Then I recalled when I couldn't start the car about five years ago - couldn't understand it. I called the RACV and a rather cluey young Indian mechanic came. He said "Have you pushed the shift lever (auto) right forward to the end (of Park)?" I said "Yes I always do". I thought this was bit odd. So I pushed it firmly right against the edge of the console slot - the engine started... Apparently the switch connected to the base of the shift lever can either wear over time and/or oxidise, so the circuit doesn't complete and the system doesn't think the lever is in Park yet. As a safety feature the engine won't start unless full Park position is recognised. So I tried pushing the lever firmly forward - and the engine started.

If you have this same problem, you might need to spray the lever position switch with contact cleaner or maybe replace it, but in the meantime, try to push the lever as firmly as possible forward to the end of the slot.

If the prob with my starting continues, I'll try to post to follow up, but it looks like this has hopefully solved the problem for the time being.

Hope this helps.

That's a real problem caused by the cheap neutral switches used in these early Commodores. My neutral interlock is really bad after a long run on a hot day. I've replaced and rebuilt these switches several times.

It's so bad I've wired a spring loaded bypass button around it- prevents embarrassment after filling up at a servo.

 

[Dunlop]

That's a real problem caused by the cheap neutral switches used in these early Commodores. My neutral interlock is really bad after a long run on a hot day. I've replaced and rebuilt these switches several times.

It's so bad I've wired a spring loaded bypass button around it- prevents embarrassment after filling up at a servo.

Thanks for that - you've done well. Car started again this morning no problem - I suspect that once the lever is pushed full forward a couple of times, any oxidisation probably comes off and it works fine for some time.

 

[MikeC]

I've actually stripped , cleaned and reassembled these switches and still have them fail after a long run on a 40 degree day- there's a thread on this forum covering rebuilding the switches.

I hope yours is permanently fixed now.

 

[Dunlop]

I've actually stripped , cleaned and reassembled these switches and still have them fail after a long run on a 40 degree day- there's a thread on this forum covering rebuilding the switches.

I hope yours is permanently fixed now.

Thanks for that - I do too. Otherwise I'll have to pull out the console cover and try to fix it.