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VR Auto transmission problem

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VRBerlina05

Guest
Probably a dumb question, but I noticed some odd behaviour from my VR Commodore Berlina this afternoon. After a short highway stint(about 20 mins) I was sitting at traffic lights when suddenly the engine warning light came on and the engine started racing slightly. The digital fuel usage display start to show erratic figures(it usually shows 0 when sitting idle and in drive). I went to pull off the road to check it and it was very slow to kick into gear. I pulled up and stopped the motor and checked fluid levels, they all seemed fairly normal from what I could see, but the gearbox looked slightly high. When I restarted the car, the engine light was off again and it seemed to be running fine (for about 20 more minutes), when suddenly it seemed to drop in to neutral(or perhaps a heavy kickdown?) and I had to remove my foot from the accelerator to get the gears to engage again.

I get the feeling I may have put too much fluid in the gearbox, but I thought I'd ask here for some opinions in case I'm wrong. I did top it up a few days ago, but I only added about 150mls. I was also curious whether it has any safequards against slight overfills(ie could I have damaged it). I raised the car when I got home and there doesn't seem to be any leaks, so I'm hopefull I can just syphon the excess out of the filler tube and all will be rosey.
 

BlackVXGTS

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Excess transmission fluid can cause erratic shift behaviour. Before you check your fluid level make sure the transmission has been thoroughly warmed up to normal operating temperature. Put the gear selector into the "P" position and apply the hand brake. Check fluid level on the dip stick. Level should be within the "Hot" area on the dip stick.
 
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VRBerlina05

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Thanks, but still no luck I'm afraid. Level was slightly high, but is fine now and it's still playing up. It seems to run fine until it gets warm(about first 20 kms or so) and then it starts disengaging, won't go into reverse etc. Interestingly if I turn the engine off for a moment and restart it it seems to run fine again for a minute or so. It is also making a strange rattling/slurpy noise from the back of the engine when it starts playing up(although I don't think it's engine related- possibly torque converter?)The fluid is only about 4 months old so I'm reluctant to try replacing it again yet, but as I see it I'm guessing one or more of the following.

a) Contaminated fluid
b) Faulty torque converter
c) Faulty sensor and/or wiring

Anybody know of any way to test each of the above. Does anybody know how many external sensors and connector the gearbox has(I can only see the speed sensor near the catalytic convertor-should it be exposed to fluid BTW?)
 

kopper69

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I also have a VR and I also have this problem, well very similar. Everytime i put my foot down a bit too hard instead of changing gears it 'misses' and revs really high. It wont stop until u realease your foot. Also if i sit on or above 90kms/hr the engine light will come on, and when i put it from park to drive it has a hard snap into gear. I have had it for two years now and it drives me insane. I am planning on taking it to an auto mechanic but im told its going to be a full rebuild $1850 + hard parts. I have heard though that if you get a new computer bit that can fix the problem.
 
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womblesa

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Kopper69 I had the same problem in my vs station wagon mechanic said it was the oxygen sensor dont know if this will help
 
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VRBerlina05

Guest
I dropped the sump on the gearbox and there seems to be nothing too obvious. Looked quite clean inside without any chunks and smelt like ordinary tranny fluid, but the colour was quite dark.
Apparently holden stopped making the service manuals for this model a few years ago so the only place to get one now is via bookstores. Anybody know of some good stores I can try, preferably around Brisbane?
 

burnz

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VRBerlina05 said:
a) Contaminated fluid
b) Faulty torque converter
c) Faulty sensor and/or wiring

Anybody know of any way to test each of the above. Does anybody know how many external sensors and connector the gearbox has(I can only see the speed sensor near the catalytic convertor-should it be exposed to fluid BTW?)
the on board puta will store the problem in memory ask it whats wrong.
 
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VRBerlina05

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Thanks burnz, but had already done that and I got code 12 : no faults.

Anyway......
I seem to have fixed the problem for $230 total - YIPPEE!!!!
In case anybody else has similar problems heres a rundown of the problem and repairs.
It seems as though a faulty manifold pressure switch was the cause, but I also replaced the 2 shift solenoids for good messure(expect to pay ~ $35-$40 each), and threw in a new filter, gasket and fluid.
It seems probable, the pressure switch was malfunctioning and sending mixed signals to the computer as to which gear it needs to be in, hence the sudden gear changes and bizarre fuel usage readouts(the computers being told im in 3rd gear, 850 rpm but the wheels aren't moving so I assume it was getting a little confused as to economy calculations)
The replacement switches should cost around $110 - $130 and are fairly easy to install, as are the solenoids but here are a few tips anyway -
- The switch is held on by 2x8mm bolts and 3x10mm bolts, all easily accessable.
- Be careful removing the electrical cable from the switch as the locking catches are prone to breakage. I used a flat screw driver head gently pressing at the side of the plug as I slightly pulled back the catch with my index finger, and had no cable locks break on me.
- Once you have removed the old switch, make sure there are no remnants left on the gearbox itself- notably old O-rings. there should be 5 complete O-rings on the old switch, if any are missing they're probably still stuck to the case
The solenoids -
- Held in by one expanding clip each, easily removed by a flat screwdriver or pliers pulled backward.
- Be sure to hold the solenoids as you unclip them as one of them is spring loaded.
- Apply small amount of transmission fluid to new soleniods O-rings before inserting them.
The filter -
- Make sure you bash that little spacer thingy in good, flush with the other metal. A socket and hammer will do the trick.

The rest of the cost was the filter, gasket and fluids. anyway hope this helps someone, cyas
 
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VRBerlina05

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Kopper69 - From what I learned researching my problem I think you will find you are up for a new/reco box. If the engine light comes on when you are hitting 80-90 kph, that's usually caused by the computer detecting slipping in the box as it tries to lock into overdrive(4th) gear. This is caused by wear and if the torque converters clutch is on its way out your bands most likely are too, because apparently they have a similar lifespan (~200000 km's-give or take depending on treatment). To be 99% certain, you need to check the fault code from the computer. If the code is 68, start saving I'm afraid.
 
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