vr v6 commo wont start no spark

[stokedindustries]

I am a mechanic!!!! have pulled spark plug out of block and earthed it while cranking it and completely no spark!! The motor will not fire at all! This has me completely and utterly ripping my hair out!!!!!! Can anyone help??????

 

[PRAVX II S]

Well i am a auto electrician. Did you check the EFI relay?
Check if there is power getting into the DFI module the power wire would be the red one.
Also check for continuity from the crank angle sensor to the DFI module there should be no open circuit there. while your checking continuity check from ECU to DFI module
there are like 4 wires that go from the DFI module back to the ecu make sure there is no open circuit. were all the parts you changed brand new?
This is considering you checked all the fuses?
Good luck

 

[RX25SE]

Can you get hold of a scan tool?

Crank it and look at the live data.

It has no spark, but does it have an injector pulse?

 

[jack of all trades]

ithink this is what my car is doing too an out come would be nice

 

[Smokinvs]

that sound like could be starters or fuel pump problem?

 

[Hangman]

that sound like could be starters or fuel pump problem?

If it's cranking, it aint the starter.

 

[Cheap6]

Might be solved already but...

A fault that causes no spark on the primary side will also mean no injector pulse and the fuel pump on only initially. This is because the PCM needs to "see" an rpm signal from the DFI before it fires the injectors and keeps the fuel pump running. i.e. check spark first from each of the coils (only one wire is needed because both ends of each coil always fire together).

There will be spark (normally) without the PCM, BCM or cam sensor. All that is required is the CAS and the DFI, at least one operating coil and that the wiring between them is intact (and a rotating engine).

There does need to be power to the CAS which is via the DFI. I'd start there, checking for power to the CAS, the earth and that the two signals are switching as the crank is rotated. Jumper wires to power and a test light will do it, made easier with a plug and wires snipped from a wreck.

Damaged fins on the balancer might also stop the CAS signal.

 

[jr689]

Hmm going to dig up an old thread here unfortunately (sorry guys) but it would seem that I have a similar problem to the OP and don't want to go down the path of changing all these parts when they aren't going to fix the problem.

Unfortunately I have already started this process by changing out the crank angle sensor and still don't have any spark coming out of the coil packs, which would then lead someone to think about changing out the coil packs and/or the DFI module...

I'm more inclined to say there is something wrong with the DFI module underneath the coil packs as I checked for a spark out of each pack and there was nothing coming out of any of them and surely not all the coil packs would sh*t themselves at the same time would they?

But basically to give a bit of a background as to what happened last week, I was travelling home from work one night and then the rpm got really erratic (jumping from about 500-2,500rpm whilst doing 80km/h) and there was just no power there however it eventually righted itself. The following day the car just completely turned off whilst going up a ramp, wasn't able to start it with the key and only just managed to get a spark on the third 'reverse' clutch start attempt! Then the next day on the way to work, the car completely turned off while doing 70km/h and I wasn't able to clutch start or start it with the key. Changed the crank angle sensor over the weekend and has a brand new battery in it and here I am now hahaha hoping you guys can spare some of your knowledge for me before I waste anymore money

Thanks guys.

jr

 

[jr689]

Ended up being the DFI module. So if anyone else has similar problems like I had in my previous post, I'd check to see if you are getting a spark from each of the coil packs. If like me, you aren't getting any spark from any of them then I'd say it's a sure bet it's the DFI module. Managed to score a brand new OEM item off eBay for around $100 delivered, genuine apparently costs upwards of $400 from what I've read.

jr

 

[govkgo]

help!!!

Might be solved already but...

A fault that causes no spark on the primary side will also mean no injector pulse and the fuel pump on only initially. This is because the PCM needs to "see" an rpm signal from the DFI before it fires the injectors and keeps the fuel pump running. i.e. check spark first from each of the coils (only one wire is needed because both ends of each coil always fire together).

There will be spark (normally) without the PCM, BCM or cam sensor. All that is required is the CAS and the DFI, at least one operating coil and that the wiring between them is intact (and a rotating engine).

There does need to be power to the CAS which is via the DFI. I'd start there, checking for power to the CAS, the earth and that the two signals are switching as the crank is rotated. Jumper wires to power and a test light will do it, made easier with a plug and wires snipped from a wreck.

Damaged fins on the balancer might also stop the CAS signal.

i have just put a ecotec v6 into a vk and i am getting spark but all at the same time when i stop cranking the engine? can you help me at all PLEASE!!