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Vs 5.0L starting problem coil? Hall effect? Or ignition Module?

Relax98

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I need help, I have a 98 statesman that has been having intermittent starting issues. No spark and injectors not pulsing. Sometimes after sitting for a while it will start but can't put my finger on the cause. Can anyone tell me how to test the coil dizzy or module, I have read it somewhere on here but can't find it. I dont want to spend money on parts that I dont need. If anyone can help it would be appreciated or any other advice to get this sorted.
 

K-BAGZ

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Ignition coil resistance @ 25 degress C
VS V8
Primary - 0.42 to 0.47 ohms
Secondary - 5940 to 7260 ohms

Spark plug wire max resistance.
V8 - 25000 ohms

Distributor - Connect a voltmeter, ammeter and 1500 ohm resistor.
0.4 volts to 11 volts - alternating as the shaft is turned
20milliamps - at all times.
 

Scrubmonk

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Sounds just like what I went through, and it ended up being the Hall Effect sensor in the dizzy. (Only played up when hot, then mysteriously starts when it has cooled down.)
There is a wire from the dizzy to the ignition module, when it is playing up, check this wire with a multimeter, it shouild be putting out 4.5volts. If you get no reading, it is the Hall Effect sensor, if you are getting a reading it is most likely the ignition module.
 

BlackVXGTS

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There is a wire from the dizzy to the ignition module...............

Just to clarify, looking at my wiring diagram, there are three wires that run from the distributor to the ignition module (via the wide six pin connector):

White wire/black stripe - +12 volts
Grey wire/red stripe - ground
Light wire/white stripe - signal (I presume this is the one you are referring to)
 

Relax98

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Got the problem sorted, It was the Hall effect, I purchased it from Jaycar and fitted it in $28 with express delivery, awesome service. I was only guessing this was the problem as it was one of the cheapest possibilities! I did recieve an Email from a guy who reconditions modules with some directions on testing the hall effect and module but havn't required it. To check the pulse from the hall effect a "LED" test light is required on the second pin from the engine of the bottom plug. The module test did seem easy enough the hard bit would be telling the difference between a .5 second (bad) pulse 1 second (good) or 1.5second (Bad).

The problem was happening worse when hot but also cold. Eventually it stopped all together. When cranking the lights for the lpg were going out, I presume it needs a signal to tell it the engine is cranking, On petrol would be the same.

For some reason I wasn't getting any fault codes, I can't even get a 12 to display. I noticed my ECU has been repaired at some stage (Sticker) this may be why.

Some people on here said to remove the inlet manifold to remove the Dizzy, They must have bigger hands than me! The hardest part was getting the distrubutor bolt loose after that it was a peice of cake!

Cheers
 

yxyx64

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lol .....that dizzy bolt - 9/16 af ringy, cut in half and keep in safe place
 

vl#hsv

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i have a similar problem i have spark but my injectors dont spark constant to keep engine running
..
 
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