Vs 5ltr statesman coil, distributor, relays ?????

[Jeremyjames]

All right this will be my first post here , I recently came into possession of a series 3 vs statesman , 304 roller type engine. No problems for a few weeks, serviced it with oil , oil filter , air filter , coolant. No dramas , doesn't heat , doesn't use anything at all, great on fuel. So this morning I decided to degrease the back side of the engine where it had a very minor tapper cover leak, rinsed it off lightly ( in hind sight a shite idea) and it wouldn't start. So I chucked the workshop heater under the bonnet and it came to life in about ten mins of heating/drying. Drove about 1-2kms, sounded like a slight pop or misfire and died on the spot. That was at 10 this morning about 8 hours ago. Turns over but not firing, wd 40 the ferk outa the electrical areas , ran the battery and a jump start pack flat trying to start it. :/ havnt pulled the dizzy cap ( although I'm assuming there water in it ) or coil yet due to the impossible location and it being on the side of the road away from tools. Just wondering if anyone knows if the existing coil wiring ( + -) will reach to a new coil mounted in an easy to access area, in the strut post or similar ? Aaaaand I have a smaller fuse / relay box in front of the main fuse box that contains 4 fuses/ relays, the two pink ones look to be corroded / blackened on the small conductive piece held right in the middle of the fuse. Is that blown or just old ? Can anyone tell me what they are for? It's my daily driver and I have 3 kids under 6 I gotta transport and shop for. Thanks in advance for any advice , I really appreciate the effort.

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

Considering the dizzy is at the back of the engine, I'd say there is water under the cap maybe. Take it off and dry it out thoroughly.

 

[wildfiremaint]

Hi Jeremy, that small box in front of the main fuse box contains the fusible links

They are the last ditch effort to prevent electrical fires.

The Main 60A is held in by bolts but the others are removable with a bit of tugging so you can remove each one to measure continuity with an ohmeter.

 

[wildfiremaint]

Also the pink ones are for the heater blower and the engine fan so they wont cause problems with starting the engine.
When I had crank-nostart problems it was caused by the connector on the brown wire that goes between the coil and the ignition module.
The engine would just die on the road and nostart but would be OK after waiting 10 mins or so.
Hope I have been some help.
Cheers.

 

[Jeremyjames]

Thanks heaps for all the replies folks , last night I pulled the cap on the side of the road where it was broken down and drown it in Wd40.
Went back this morning with a jumpstart pack and took a random spare spark plug with me too. Gave it a kick over and it still wasn't firing , popped 1 lead at a time and plugged in the spare but no spark at all.
Got a 2nd hand coil from the wreckers this arvo and a new, longer, ignition lead ( old one was full of corrosion when I pulled it from the cap) and pulled the wires off the old coil and extended them to the strut tower. Where I mounted the coil , leaving the old one lost forever in the hose-ish wirey abyss. Hooked it all up on the side of the road and Ferken boom she fired up in one turn like the old days. Replaced the link fuses as they were only 6 bucks each , regardless of function. Done 125km driving no problems , but of arvo traffic , some big hills and gave it a bit of a stab with no dramas. I'm thinking Although the original issue was me drowning the engine bay , I probably burnt out the coil excessively winding the engine over trying to get it to start.
Thanks again for all the replies people.

 

[Nut Kracker]

My coil **** its self not long ago and I put a MSD Blaster SS 8207 on.
Made a huge difference.
$110 from Autobarn. Although you can get them cheaper from eBay. But I was in a hurry.
Might be an option.