VS Ute - Front Speaker Pods - 6.5"

[jokerflingo]

The Type-s coaxials will fit straight in *just*. I had them, and with the old style ones I had to bent 1 of the tabs that you use to screw them in, but the new ones fit in fine without any mods.
Just be glad you arent getting type-x's!

If you get splits they will come with an external crossover, and depending where you mount it running the wires for the tweeters can be a bit of a pain, but not too hard

K sounds good, last question then if i buy the Alpine Type S Coaxial Speakers that can i still connect the stock tweeter that is in my VS Ute? If so how do i do this?

I think that question above is the last since the Alpine Type S Coaxial Speakers should hopefully fit in fine without any mods, the Alpine Type S Sub should be great matched with the Alpine Amp.

Thanks again
Matt

 

[Philthy]

The speakers in the doors are seperate from the tweeters, so if you don't disconnect the stock tweeters from the dash then they will still work.

I have never used alpine subs, so I can't say how good they are but I say you can't go past their speakers for the price. You should have a pretty good system after all this.

 

[apoc585]

that whole blue piece u can see comes up. its a bit of stuffing around but not too bad. running wires down is usually ok. And as said before, if u buy splits they come with sperate tweeters, speakers & crossovers. If you want a basic wiring diagram i can whip one up, its not hard.
Where do u plan on putting the sub?

With the placing of the amps, this is where mine was behind the drivers seat. less heat than the floor and plenty of room. ps. the thing next to it is a splitter.

 

[jokerflingo]

Well i reckon since the tweeters in the dash will still work after i wire up these Alpine S Type speakers that i will just leave them and use them like that because quite frankly i didn't even know they were there. My dad and i cant really be stuffed pulling off all the plastic dash to get to these two small speakers and then i betcha it wouldn't be easy to replace them because lemme guess u cant use the original wiring?

As for my sub well that will be going in the back of the tray next to the fuel tank in a sealed box ported through to the cab so no need to worry about that with the amp sitting under the passenger seat in the cab.

On the tweeter note i am hoping the original ones are ok for what they are i mean come on how much better can aftermarket tweeters really be considering there so small so i wont really miss having better aftermarket one would i? Also how do they run anyway off of the head unit? And any recommendations on a top quality head unit too maybe down the track or soon depending on $$$ since the one that came with it is a little worn?
Could you maybe whip up a wiring diagram just so i can get some extra info and knowledge on this topic.

Thanks
Matt

 

[apoc585]

Alright, here's one setup. This is how i ran my old system and it worked a treat.
For the Sub, if your headunit has RCA outputs use them, if not then you can just use the rear left and rear right speaker outputs from the head deck and you'll have to tune the amp to suit.
Using a 4ch 600W amp should do it. 150W rms per channel. ie. the MRP-F600.

 

[NinetySix]

Try running a set of splits that have neodymium magnets as they are a lot smaller... boston pro60 and SPZ60 spring to mind but there might be others


forget about the plastic speaker pods, you really need something solid. i made mine from tracing the outline of the pods onto 6mm MDF and then screwing together 3 rings of 18mm MDF to space it out...


definitely kill the stock tweeters if you're putting new splits in, you dont have to take the dash apart just three screws holding the trim that goes along the front windscreen over the tweeters and it pops out. or leave em in and just disconnect the wiring if need be.

i highly recommend running tweeters down low, even coaxially mounted if they allow for it rather than up on the dash