VT Commodore issues - help!

[nabed4t]

Hey everyone,

I've been having some issues with my 98 VT S Commodore and I am in need of some input and advice.

Problem 1 - Occurs mainly when the car is cold. When driving the car out of the driveway and going over the gutter onto the road there is a clunk coming from the left hand front wheel. When turning right onto the road from the driveway and straightening up the steering there is another clunk from the same wheel. The clunk occurs again when braking and turning a corner and straightening the steering results in another clunk. After the clunk caused by braking has occurred, subsequent braking doesn't result in any clunks until the turning clunks have happened. It seems like something needs to reset for the clunks to happen.
I have changed the tie rod ends and the front shocks, struts and bearings with no improvement.
While changing the shocks I checked the front bushes and everything seemed okay. Any suggestions or advice would be much appreciated.

Problem 2 - there is a scrubbing/scraping noise coming from the right front wheel when turning left or applying the brake. I'm not sure if it's the shifting weight while braking that's causing the scrubbing/scraping but it happens when completing a slow left turn and disappears when driving straight. I have changed the front brake pads with no change.

Problem 3 - Recently the car has had trouble starting. It turns over fine but takes a few seconds of cranking for her to start. Turning the ignition to accessories I can hear the fuel pump prime. If I switch the ignition from off to accessories 2-3 times to prime the pump the car starts fine - I've done some reading that it could be a pressure issues but any suggestions about how to diagnose this problem would be very much appreciated.

Any suggestions to these problems would be amazing.
Thanks heaps.

Dan

 

[devilly]

1. could be ball joints 2. could be the backing plate bent and scrubbing on stuff 3.either fuel or electric problem,put in that fuel injector cleaner stuff,whats the volts on the battery ? might just be that a few hot days and every-one needs to add water to the battery.

 

[nabed4t]

Thanks for the reply. I'll grab some of that cleaner stuff and see what happens. The battery voltage is sitting on around 12v and the battery is an enclosed one so can't add water.
In regards to the ball joints, do you mean the wheel bearings, and the backing plate is that just behind the brake calipers?
Cheers,
Dan.

 

[billythakid]

Check your sway bar link pins for the clunk , get under the front and wiggle the **** out of them and see if they move , the bushes fold abit on full lock
Are your rotors warped ?
Sometimes the brake pads grab and shift in the calliper and it's bloody annoying ! Mine done this for about 4 weeks till pads bedded in properly
Look inside the inner wheel arch for rubbing. , my car rubs about 1 inch sq on the plastic inner guard from turning hard ,

The starting could be anything , battery might be going a battery place will load test it for free most times . What is the CCA of your battery in it ATM , they should be about 550-600 CCA for a v6

Bloke at work his VT berlina cranks a few times before it starts but it has 440000k on it and a new battery and fuel pump so I guess it's just getting old and tired

 

[nabed4t]

Thanks mate, I'll have a look.
Should there be any movement in the link pins?
I didn't notice the rotors when changing the shocks, but then I wasn't really paying that much attention.
I have since my last post bought and put in some injector/fuel system cleaner as per devilly's post to see what that does and I will get the battery tested - she has been run flat a few times.

 

[billythakid]

They usually clunk when the rubber bushes (4 per side )are worn or the actual link pin is bent a bit . Just double check everything under the front . Start with the usual suspects
Swaybar link pins
K-frame bolts
Engine mounts
Tie rod end
Loose pad in calliper

If you fitted bendix DB1331 in them , they had a few issues with the metal tabs being bent down in the packaging causing the pads to shift in the callipers .
Search the inter web for bendix Db1331 issues
Here ya go
http://youtu.be/JutdkAq0lDg

 

[nabed4t]

They usually clunk when the rubber bushes (4 per side )are worn or the actual link pin is bent a bit . Just double check everything under the front . Start with the usual suspects
Swaybar link pins
K-frame bolts
Engine mounts
Tie rod end
Loose pad in calliper

If you fitted bendix DB1331 in them , they had a few issues with the metal tabs being bent down in the packaging causing the pads to shift in the callipers .
Search the inter web for bendix Db1331 issues
Here ya go
Rattling or knocking problem with VT-VZ Brakes - YouTube

Thanks mate, I did check the link pin bushes when I changed the shocks. They seemed okay, although I did notice that the washer that fitted into the top mount of the pin on the strut (it is a concave shape and has a lip that inserts into the hole on the mount that's on the strut) was damaged but still usable - could this be an issue?

I have been thinking about changing the link pins with some Nolathane pins, does anyone have any opinions on Nolathane products?

The brake pads are Bendix, I'll have a closer look the next time I have the wheel off - I have also already changed the tie rod ends so I can cross that off the list

Thanks heaps.

Edit: on closer inspection of the Front Radius/strut rod - to chassis bushing are looking a bit sad. I might change them too, would you recommend changing the back bushes as well (the one in the lower control arm)

 

[nabed4t]

Hey Everyone,

Some new issues have arisen. I've noticed that while driving, if I take my foot off the accelerator the revs drop really low for a second before picking up again, almost to the point where she stalls. I've only noticed it while driving at around 40-60km/hr and while reversing into the drive. Could this be related to the difficult start issue?
Also idling is fine - no issues, revs hold steady.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[devilly]

change the fuel filter, its under the rear of the car behind the fuel tank.also try when you get in the car, lock it and unlock and see if it starts first go.I ended up putting new struts and Nolathane rubbers through my entire front system and then got a wheel alignment.

 

[nabed4t]

I will be nolathane-ing my car this w/e - we shall see if that fixes anything.
When you say "lock it and unlock it" do you mean lock the door or the steering wheel?
I have in the past noticed that if I turn the ignition to accessories then off a few times to prime the fuel pump the car starts easier.