Vt v6 Uni joint replacement

[S/K Commodore]

Hey guys,



I have a question that I’m hoping for a straight answer as I been non stop researching for but not getting anywhere.



Ok, I am going to be replacing both front and rear uni joints on missus vt v6 sedan, (transmission end as well as the diff end.

Now replacing the actual joints is easy but the part I’m not sure about is when it comes to actually removing the driveshaft from the diff.

What I do know is jacking up the rear of the car and blocking the front wheels as that’s what I always normally do.

But I also know and heard that once the shaft is removed from the diff, the car can roll forward due to the shaft being the link is removed so the car is no longer in park, hence why the front wheels blocked.

I know people use jack stands so the car can be placed in neutral with hand brake off so the shaft bolts can be loosened while others use ramps.

Now bolt access for me isn’t a problem, so the question is, (with front wheels blocked obviously), does it matter which is used between ramps or jack stands as the front is blocked or is one preferred or better than the other?

Wanted to know if anyone with vt or any commodore have done uni joints or removed driveshaft and what they used to raise the rear end do remove the shaft between the stands or ramps.



Any thoughts/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[ephect]

Tailshaft out isn't too hard, use stands as you can rotate the shaft to make bolt removal easier. Level surface and chocks under the front for peace of mind.

If series 1, 4 bolts diff and 2 centre bearing brace. And the yoke slides out from the trans. Head of bolt is captive on a lip so don't bother trying to spin it.

Series 2, note the rubber don't arrows before removal.

Replace centre bearing while you're there with genuine

 

[S/K Commodore]

Tailshaft out isn't too hard, use stands as you can rotate the shaft to make bolt removal easier. Level surface and chocks under the front for peace of mind.

If series 1, 4 bolts diff and 2 centre bearing brace. And the yoke slides out from the trans. Head of bolt is captive on a lip so don't bother trying to spin it.

Series 2, note the rubber don't arrows before removal.

Replace centre bearing while you're there with genuine

Thank you for that advice, would it matter and be ok if the surface is on a slight slope? Just make sure the front wheels are chocked. If it is ok with a slight slope and wheels chocked, do you suggest front of car facing the slope direction or the rear? Also do you suggest anything else to help with chocking the front making it more safer due to the slight slope or is it just making sure the wheels chocked. And one other thing, when removing driveshaft, handbrake on or off and transmission is park or neutral? I have heard hand brake off and in neutral when actually removing driveshaft as there will not be any load on the shaft where if there is a load, then there will be a load which means a lot of force which is dangerous due to roll.

 

[ephect]

Hand brake off and in neutral.

If a slight slope is un avoidable, for safety don't do it if the slope is more than 5 degrees. Get a level app on your phone to check.

Position the car so that jacking the rear makes it level when raised.
Slopes down = front of car at top of incline.

Chock both the front and rear of the front tyres.

Please be safe and if it's not, don't do it.

 

[S/K Commodore]

Hand brake off and in neutral.

If a slight slope is un avoidable, for safety don't do it if the slope is more than 5 degrees. Get a level app on your phone to check.

Position the car so that jacking the rear makes it level when raised.
Slopes down = front of car at top of incline.

Chock both the front and rear of the front tyres.

Please be sage and if it's not, don't do it.

So basically when the rear is jacked up making the rear wheels off the ground and the front wheels chocked as they remain on the ground.

The car can’t roll at all as the front wheels are chocked and can’t move/roll when removing shaft. While the rear wheels are off the ground, there is no chance of the rear wheels rolling due to being off the ground.

The only way the car can roll is if the front wheels are not chocked, as the shaft being the link has been removed, making when the front wheels roll, the rear just follows hence why cars roll over people due to not chocking the front wheels.

So if the front wheels are chocked, rear end is jacked up with handbrake off and in neutral, the car has no way of rolling due to the front being chocked so the front can’t roll making the rear not move where as front not chocked, front will roll and the rear obviously follows.

So really when the shaft is removed, the front and rear becomes the childhood game, (follow the leader), front blocked rear blocked (won’t move) and front not blocked, front rolls so then does the rear.

I do apologise for the write up, it’s just with the whole job, it’s that one part I have to make fully sure of the correct and safe way.

Once I know fully and clearly in my head, the rest is easy as, so I do apologise.

I am autistic so I tend to double and triple check first being 100% sure.

I bet anything once it’s off, I will be like, wtf!! That was easy, making all the stress for nothing, so again I apologise if anyone is getting frustrated or anything thinking I am not listening when I am, I’m just clarifying different bits and pieces so it’s all clear in my head as I do NOT ever take safety for granted especially when it comes to getting under a jacked up car. One wrong move and dead, all over no second chance.

I believe there is no such thing called to safe where there is to risky, all about life or death under a car.

As well as never ever being to cautious and safe.



Cheers

 

[ephect]

Yes you are correct if your checking. When the car is raised it should be level, jack up away from the slope. Don't jack it to make the angle higher.

Fronts chocked while removing the tailshaft.

Front and rear chocked when finished.

Also consider your surroundings and neighbours. If you have some dodgy neighbours they may remove your chocks for thr fun of it. Can the car roll away into someone's house or car. Choose your location wisely.

 

[S/K Commodore]

Yes you are correct if your checking. When the car is raised it should be level, jack up away from the slope. Don't jack it to make the angle higher.

Fronts chocked while removing the tailshaft.

Front and rear chocked when finished.

Also consider your surroundings and neighbours. If you have some dodgy neighbours they may remove your chocks for thr fun of it. Can the car roll away into someone's house or car. Choose your location wisely.

What do you mean by chock front and rear when finished?
Also surroundings is all good, never a drama with neighbours, I have had the front and rear of car up doing front and rear sway bar bushes and rear link bushes as well as the starter motor, and will be dropping Diff to replace the diff gasket with no problems which is great.
My driveway does have a small slope from the gate to the road, so I will have the car facing upwards and jacking the rear from the lower point so make it more level.
I do work as a full time motor mechanic, (no not yet qualified), so by all means, I’m far from knowing as much as a qualified mechanic, and at work, I only use hoists unless a jack is needed that a hoist can’t do, so hence why with the actual driveshaft removal part with jack/stand or ramps, I haven’t done before as there is a big difference between a hoist and the ramps/stands, (hoist much easier and safe, hence wanting to know clarify that part to do it safely and correct, but the rest eg, jacking up, removing actual uni joints from shaft when it’s removed is all good on knowing what to do.

 

[ephect]

Like most jobs knowledge comes from performing the work. It'll be a great learning experience.

You need to chock behind and in front of the front wheels to wedge it in.
Rear is lower because of the slope. When you left the rear up, the front wheels will want to roll down the hill so chocking only the front of the front wheels, won't help.

Chocking in front as well as behind is just extra insurance for your safety.

 

[S/K Commodore]

Hey guys,

Quick update, I have just purchased another 2 wheel chocks so I now have 4, which I can now chock both the front and rear of the front wheels.
I also had a better look at the driveway, upon looking at it, at the top of the driveway (probably around the length of a commodore sedan), it’s actually pretty good in being close to level, it’s definitely not flat like a brand new driveway, so it does have bumps in the surface but not really a slope as such.
I recon a sedan length and a little more down the driveway from the top is where the slope starts which to me is still bugger all of a slope, as when parking the car on that slope forward so facing towards the top, as the rear end of the car is not lowered (stock height), you wouldn’t think there is a slope if you were only looking at the car and not the driveway.
I am going to open the gate so allow that little more level surface room.
So in light of this information, as long as the front and rear of the front wheels are chocked firmly, handbrake is released and transmission is in neutral, I shouldn’t have any dramas or worries about the car rolling at all, well there is always a risk in some form of way but the chances of rolling is much much lower if I made sure I follow those few very important steps.
Hoping that sounds about right and on the right path to successfully completing this job, without any dramas or injuries/death and safety is correct.

 

[S/K Commodore]

Hey guys,
Just checking in and seeing if anyone has red my last post and could let me know if I’m on the right track with that job.

Cheers