VX Series 2 Rack-End drama

[Gw33dz]

The ball joint in the right side rack-end had play, so i went to replace it.
Got it off, which stripped the thread on the old rack-end.
There was no washer or anything I could see, but the new part i bought does have a lock washer.
I couldn't get the new part on, the thread wouldn't bite, I don't have the proper tool, just using a shifter, so trying to start it by hand.
I had to put the old stripped one back on with some loctite in the meantime just to get around my local town which is suss, i know.
I've looked at other posts already.
Basically I think I need to know what size thread it is so i can tap the internal thread of the rack, so i can get the new part on.
I noticed in another post someone said it's M14 x 1.5 thread pitch but they weren't sure.
Just wanting to see if someone knows for sure before I stuff it up again.
It's a VX s2 Acclaim wagon, v6. I'm wanting to tap the internal thread of the rack.
Cheers legends.

 

[bluehighway]

My advice is dont even think about driving it . Get it put on a transporter and taken to a workshop and get them to sort it for you...You only live once.. I say this because it sounds like you cant even change a tie rod end (I dont mean this in a bad way either but fact is even knowing how to do so requires the car to be properly aligned after anyways..) its better to leave it up to a qualified mech...they will be able to sort it all out for you... a good way of saving money is to buy the part and take the car to a good workshop and get them to put the part on for you and do a quick alignment... you could be looking at a replacement rack, let an expert sort it...

 

[Gw33dz]

Thanks for the response. It's not a tie rod end, it's a rack end (inner tie rod end), it's not a matter of not knowing how to do it, it's a retarded method of installation from the factory, the only way to get it off, is to strip it. There's no lock washer, it's like they just dented above the thread on the steering rack to lock it in place. I know it will need a wheel alignment. I'm just wanting to know what the tap size is and i think i found it, just seeing if anyone can confirm it. The old part is stripped, but the internal thread in the rack is ok, it's just that the start of it isn't round because of the weird dent.
M14 x 1.5. I think that's right cause i just found a post that confirmed it. I just wanted to be sure because there are different parts for different models and the other post is regarding a VY. I imagine it will be the same but some confirmation would be good. If i wanted to waste money getting it towed to the local rip off dikk-head f-wit mechanic who i have already fallen out with, I wouldn't be on here asking questions. The guy i see is over 100km's away. Just make with the specs! Lol.

 

[vc commodore]

So just to confirm, it's the rack end where it bolts into the internals of the rack?

That being the case, stuff tapping that....You'll get crap inside the rack, potentially causing it to bind up.....Now that'll be fun

I'd be replacing the rack and not driving it....

 

[Gw33dz]

Thanks for your response. It is an internal thread on the end of the shaft, but debris from within that thread can't get into the rack. There are seals on the outside of that shaft, and that's why you need the boots, to stop dust getting into those seals and into the ball joint of the rack end but the thread is not hollow all the way through so what you are suggesting would not be an issue.

 

[vc commodore]

Thanks for your response. It is an internal thread on the end of the shaft, but debris from within that thread can't get into the rack. There are seals on the outside of that shaft, and that's why you need the boots, to stop dust getting into those seals and into the ball joint of the rack end but the thread is not hollow all the way through so what you are suggesting would not be an issue.

Those boots you refer to cover the internal thread, so how are they going to stop the material you have to remove from the internal threads getting inside the rack?

They aren't.....The material you have to remove to re-create the thread can end up inside the rack internals, causing it to bind up....The binding up generally rears it's head when the insides of the rack move....ie under turning conditions.....

So don't even consider re-tapping the thread....Replace the rack is the easiest option and safest option

 

[Gw33dz]

I don't think that would be the easiest option, definitely not the cheapest option. Why replace the entire rack because of a shot ball joint in a rack end?
After you tap the thread, what you do, is clean it out with some carby cleaner or similar, when you screw the new part in, nothing is coming out of there. I was just trying to get some confirmation on the thread size and pitch required to tap the thread. I've ordered an M14 x 1.5 "Intermediate" Tap. I'll let you know how i get on when it arrives. I will be using the lock washer supplied with the new rack end and also blue loctite. Hope this helps someone thinking of replacing a rack end who doesn't realize that they won't get the new one on, and their old one will be stripped.

 

[vc commodore]

I don't think that would be the easiest option, definitely not the cheapest option. Why replace the entire rack because of a shot ball joint in a rack end?
After you tap the thread, what you do, is clean it out with some carby cleaner or similar, when you screw the new part in, nothing is coming out of there. I was just trying to get some confirmation on the thread size and pitch required to tap the thread. I've ordered an M14 x 1.5 "Intermediate" Tap. I'll let you know how i get on when it arrives. I will be using the lock washer supplied with the new rack end and also blue loctite. Hope this helps someone thinking of replacing a rack end who doesn't realize that they won't get the new one on, and their old one will be stripped.

Your choice....Only mentioning what can occur and the dangers involved with what you are doing.....

 

[Fu Manchu]

It is not normal for the thread to be stripped. It is also not part of the design for the thread to strip in order to remove it. Something went pear shaped there.

 

[vc commodore]

It is not normal for the thread to be stripped. It is also not part of the design for the thread to strip in order to remove it. Something went pear shaped there.

I have my suspicions how it got stuffed up to begin with, but won't comment....

The scary bit is him retapping the thread for starters and using carby cleaner to dilute the power steering fluid when he gets some of the metal out of the rack inners from tapping a new thread.....

Fortunately neither you or I live in his state, so we are safe....