VX SS torque management

[Ginger Beer]

Been talking torque management strategies on another forum

I've been looking at options for my VX SS, aftermarket ECU's for aftermarket traction control

I bought a aftermarket traction control solution a while ago but have had issues finding a shop that will install it (I don't do wiring or tuning, I pay people to do that black magic)

RaceTCS http://www.racetcs.com/

I thought my next stop was a Haltech 2500 +T, but.....

Does anyone know if what one of the boys posted about using a VY ECU is viable?

I want to try and limit the power in the low to mid range to negate wheel spin on a hard launch

Car is VX SS series 2 with a built 4l60e and HarropHTV2300

Quote:

Hey Mark @The Bogan

"The VX SS ECU, it's a cable throttle isn't it?
From memory one of the LS1 engines (VY I think) is DBW, and the ECU uses a torque management tune, rather than matching fuel to air.
Possibly able to swap from VX to VY ECU and DBW easily, and then with HPTuners, part of the torque management strategy will be speed, you just reduce torque requested based on speed and TPS."

 

[Ginger Beer]

Also....My car is cable, do I also need a electronic TB for the VY ECU to work torque management?

Any tips or info most welcome

 

[EYY]

They all have torque management and traction control capabilities. It’s just that they do it in different ways.

VT-VY are cable throttle. Torque management works by regarding ignition timing as the calculated torque limit is reached. This can be adjusted in your tune, as can traction control parameters.

VZ uses the DBW setup, but there’s really no advantage as far as traction control and torque management goes in my opinion.

VT-VY traction control will kick your foot off the pedal using a throttle relaxer. VZ will not - it’ll just back off the throttle blade for you with your foot in the same position.

In any case, a decent tuner will get you sorted with a factory computer.

 

[Ginger Beer]

They all have torque management and traction control capabilities. It’s just that they do it in different ways.

VT-VY are cable throttle. Torque management works by regarding ignition timing as the calculated torque limit is reached. This can be adjusted in your tune, as can traction control parameters.

VZ uses the DBW setup, but there’s really no advantage as far as traction control and torque management goes in my opinion.

VT-VY traction control will kick your foot off the pedal using a throttle relaxer. VZ will not - it’ll just back off the throttle blade for you with your foot in the same position.

In any case, a decent tuner will get you sorted with a factory computer.

Cheers, time to book into the tuner

Many thanks for the info

 

[Ginger Beer]

Forgot about this post, if anyone searches torque management or traction control here is my review

To start, I highly recommend the RaceTCS if you are trying to stick to a certain budget (see below for my initial costing review)

I got the RaceTCS all wired up by my local shop, Autotech Engineering in Sydney

Then, after me testing and sending multiple logs to RaceTCS for "free" support, and getting multiple "free" updates and suggestions back, the settings are now on point for the street tyres

It has 6 settings of control, setting 1 is the most aggressive (wet and icy roads), and allows no real wheel slip % at all, setting 6 is the least aggressive and the most amount of slip % allowed, currently as good as it gets

How good, with settings 6 set up with the last update, and on some fresh 255/40 17 Hankook RS4's the best 0-100kph is a 3.736 seconds on a clean dry bitumen road, to say that I'm happy is an understatement

The previous setting 6 update was a 3.960, the previous to that was a 4.096, the initial settings with it installed gave me a 4.360, same stretch of road, same weather conditions (about 22°c)

I never did a log with it off on street tyres as it was pedal city and would have been pointless, and disappointing

Before, with 500hp and 900nm of PD torque from around 2500rpm, a big hit would just bag the rear without traction control on, with the OEM traction control on, the car would just die as the OEM traction control just shut the throttle killing all power

Now, on street tyres, the car just leaps forward, with the traction control cutting in and out, millisecond fast, you can hear it working, but it just keeps pulling, with a minimal % of noticeable wheel spin

Now, I can just go WOT in 1st, and the car just hooks and accelerates, and when manually shifting down and giving it a big hit from 3rd (even though it is a built 4l60e I don't do WOT hits from 4th, 4l60e's hate that), it just shifts down and takes off
Before RaceTCS , the car would spin hard at WOT from about 60kph, not only is it faster, it is also alot safer

As for the % of wheel slip, as I stated, the slip is barely noticeable, the car just shoots straight and true, but, when you look at the logs, you can really see it working at raining in the wheel slip to only allow the most slip for the most acceleration/power that the tyres can handle

Next step will be hitting WSID on the drag radials, I'll log one run with it off (you can turn it off just like the OEM traction control, which it still retains the OEM traction control, the RaceTCS only works when you turn off the OEM traction control system), then look at the log, to see where how much it is spinning, then log one in setting 6, and see how that effects the 60'

I'll then send that log in and see what they recommend

Honestly though, if settings 6 can put the power down to give me that 0-100kph on street tyres, it probably won't need much, if any, tweeks to control slip on drag radials, but I'll let RaceTCS make those decisions, their updates and recommendations to the settings have been on point every time

Are there "better" options out there, yes, but, from looking at the differences in cost, like a aftermarket ECU plus supporting mods, plus wiring, plus dyno tuning time, plus logging and retuning and adjustments by someone that knows what they are doing, for my "drive in drive out" style, it would have cost between $10-15k just to get it all sorted, right now as it stands, I'm all in and done for around $3k, with free support if required

On a side note: A weird thing, to me at least (#physics black magic), is the additional benefit now when hitting 2nd under WOT, because the road speed from changing from 1st to 2nd is much higher now, and the tyre isn't spinning hard when it changes gear, it limits the amount of wheel spin in 2nd, something about the inertia/weight from the spinning wheels/drive train (again #physics black magic)