Hey All For anyone familiar with a one tonner - the type with wood slats over metal purlins... I could really use some advice on getting the fuel tank out. Discovered a lot of sediment in the fuel tank, via pulling the injectors and finding grit plugging them up. (It ran like a 3 legged drunk centipede.) I know not how the crap got in there ... yet. Tank's very clean except for base which is covered in 'loose dirt'. So I have disconnected all the hoses and removed the fuel pump without too much issue. But I am totally stuck on how the tank is removed from the sub frame. The tank is wider than the beams directly above. But I had figured it can be just manoeuvred around until it can be slid out... wrong! The straps on both top and bottom have been unbolted & removed. The tank can be pulled up about 100mm before it hits the support frame for the back tray. It won't twist in either rotational(z) or xy plane. There's seems just no wiggle room to shimmy it out. Note - I am assuming tank has to come out upwards, as it sits over exhaust and tailshaft, saddle like. The support frame has significant bolts holding a heavy weight so I reasoned that can not be the official method for removing the tank. (Probably take ~2 days just to safely disassemble it all) If you can see the 1st photo (taken from standing above), there's welded support frame all round the tank which prevents it from twisting (and being moved except upward). No detail for 1t in an Ellery's ( and assume Gregories too) Manual. What about Tech Manual ? Would anyone have the page ? Thanks in advance. Matt P.S. there seems to be no filter for this model ?? apart from the filter pad over the pick up on the fuel pump - which was heavily caked in the sediment. Having bought a VY fuel filter I am intending on putting this inline just before the fuel rail under the hood. (I rechecked - no ONE TONNER UTE filter in selection charts. Go figure!)
I've had no reason to remove the fuel tank from mine so I can't give you a definite answer But if you can only get the tank to move in an upwards direction, you will probably have to remove the whole tray and not just the timbers to be able lift it out Aftermarket replacement fuel filters are available for the one tonners Ryco part number is Z710.........….Wesfil part number is WCF138.........These filters suit both the V6 and V8 one tonners and crewmans Personally, I wouldn't be putting a fuel filter under the bonnet right before the fuel rail....Worst case scenario if a leak should ever occur you could end up on fire because you've got hot exhaust manifolds and other parts under the bonnet....I might be a little paranoid, but I'm also in no rush to have burn my car to the ground
Cheers Matt, Yes point taken I guess, tho I'm using same existing connectors to fuel rail that are directly over exhaust pipes. was going to mount it in a sensible place against firewall. Can you tell me where your filter is located ? I traced my lines but no filter at all. Who knows, maybe previous owner reassembled it and that was one of those parts 'left over'. Well I spent one whole day trying to work it out. Guess they must have assembled the dang thing in there before the tray support... as you surmised. I'll do a reassemble vid once I've worked out the best method to take it apart. Matt You know Ima have to change my name now to Matt Tonner2 kekeke
The filter on the tonners and Crewman(s) are in the fuel tank as part of the pump...( I think) On a Crewman you can replace it by unbolting the tray and sliding the tray about 300mm back to get to the tank. There is/was a video on this forum which shows how to. Try a forum or google search. Tonner Matt may remember what I am on about. Edit. just realised that you are probably way past that point in disassembly.
Yeah, the fuel filter is located inside the fuel pump module The module needs to be disassembled to replace the fuel filter These parts should have been inside your fuel pump module when you disassembled it # Pump sock # Fuel filter # Fuel pump
Yeah thanks guys. That's what a clean one looks like Going to replace the fuel pump and put a VY fuel filter in the line - the new sock should keep the pump clean enough for the next 10 years. The old sock and filter were caked in black mud once it dried out. Anyways seeing as the tank won't come out with the frame on top I'm going to cut a section out of the Z-beam on one side. I have a plasma torch perfect for the job... /! In reality a nibbler and jig/hacksaw will have to do. I can then reinforce it with some RHS bolted on to be removable in case later... Matt
Fitting an extra fuel filter inline isn't necessary The only difference between a ute & tonner fuel pump/filter setup is..... # A ute has the fuel filter mounted outside of the tank.....It's behind the right rear wheel # A one tonner has the fuel filter inside the tank.....It's inside the fuel pump module Regardless of being a one tonner or ute, the fuel pump sock will filter the fuel before it enters the pump, then the pump sends the fuel through the filter. The two different setups work the same way, the only difference is the location of the filter
Thanks Matt I hear you , in terms of performance theres no real difference. Would it be your opinion that, that much dirt in the tank (1-2mm layer on the bottom) would accumulate over 15 years? The rest of the inside tank is 'looking as new' as you would expect with a solvent like petrol. I just want an easily accessible external filter vs. the many many hours to take all the decking off - the only way I knew the filter was letting dirt through was the injectors were blocked/failed. Until I find out how that dirt got in the fuel tank I'm going to need an easy frequent check. I am planning on taking the sock off the new pump, and making an inline glass wall filter out of the VY filter, that way I'll know alot sooner (and more easily) if it's starting to be a problem again. It's probably overkill but I'll have greater peace of mind. cheers Matt P.S. in that 1st photo do you know what that sealed box is.. it's mounted just before the spare tire and connected to both the tank and pump secondary... is it some sort of pressure/vapor purge system for the return?
It can quite easily accumulate that much crap or even a lot more in the bottom of the tank after 15 years Dirt contaminated servo storage tanks are common, filling up from jerry cans and drums can also add to it as well I understand your idea and the theory of fitting an external filter, but...... You are fitting a new fuel filter when you reassemble the fuel pump module, your new filter is going to catch and contain any crap that may still remain or get into the tank in the future.....Even if you do go ahead and fit an external filter anyway, when you go to inspect it for any contaminants it will be discoloured but it will be basically clean because everything would have been trapped by the new internal filter. It may take another 10 years for the filter to become choked with crap like it was when you removed it, but now you are aware of what can happen over time, I'm pretty sure you will replace the fuel filter before it happens again Don't leave the sock off the pump....The job of the sock is to keep any crap from getting into the pump and destroying it Modifying the fuel filter to make it see through with some glass is a bad idea, with the fuel pressure that fuel injected cars run at I guarantee that it would leak or burst open creating a major fire hazard That black box in front of the spare I call it a Purge Canister Easiest way I could explain it's function would be to say....It captures and prevents fuel vapours from venting directly to the atmosphere
Hi, I just wanted to follow this one up. I found the way to get the tank out was to undo the 4 x 18mm AF bolts down each side of the tray and use a scissor jack to lift up the drivers side about 200mm to tilt the tank and out. The original problem has not been solved but an unexpected source has become apparent - the line is full of debris, not from the tank but from the pump itself. There was fragments of rubber and fine fragments and shards of magnet (or magnetized iron). Here's what happened (best guess): the pump sock filter over time became very clogged, which meant the pump either cavitated or ran dry on startup. The rubber seals got a little chewed up and the motor bearings failed and the resultant heat and abrasion put iron core / magnet into the fuel stream. After a look at the old pumps condition and repeated attempts to flush out the steel line I deduced that it'd never flush out completely due to the material sticking to the inside of the steel line. One set of fuel lines replaced with temporarily with rubber hose ( and eventually a new line of aluminium/stainless steel ). Now I'm going to start a new thread to cover the next problem of starting then cutting out after 1-2 secs running. Hey my bet is it's still fuel supply... just don't see why ??
Hi Lex , they're clean - I just tested them and they're working fine. Rail got a complete blow through with compressed air too. I have more detail in a new thread.. now that the fuel tank and line are fixed . https://forums.justcommodores.com.au/threads/does-anyone-know-what-kind-of-valve-this-is.274275/
