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vz power steering

Discussion in 'VZ Holden Commodore (2004 - 2006)' started by markovr, Dec 21, 2015.

  1. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    07vessv 94vr .04vz wgn,93vp wgn,82 vhV6 wgn 88 vn
    I have my power steering rack out to fix a leak from the drivers side of the housing so I was going to take it apart and replace the seals .Went looking on the net for some info .....even a view of all the components.... Next to nothing ... About to change that by posting these so it might help someone else.
    This is a TSSA branded steering rack out of my 2004 vz ...apparently company that made these for Holden went belly up during vz series run and Holden then sourced steering racks from a different company so those later ones will be different from this one.
    Turned pinion shaft so rack bar is roughly in middle so flats on pinion shaft are where they should be when the coupling from the steering wheel hooks up when steering wheel would be centre and measured from edge of rack to end of housing so I know where it should be when I reassemble. So by picture below....pinion will be in the right position with flats on input surface roughly parallel to rack and relief flat in pinion surface for coupling bolt facing in (you cant see that relief flat in picture as its points inboard) and 39mm from housing end to end of rack bar on drivers end.
    [​IMG]
    Found a non genuine vx service manual on line(ellerys?) and most of the steps from the manual are straight forward .....take rack boots and rack ends off ....undo and take the pinion support and bottom locknut ...release top circlip and take out pinion assembly out ..but I have got to the part to remove the rack bar itself from the housing but the manual says to just take it out without saying how.
    Actual rack bar comes out from passenger side of housing but is retained by a plastic sleeve/bush..... Older racks had a steel nut screwed into the passenger side of the housing that was turned using a special tool that had pins that located in the nut to unscrew it and everything just came out after unscrewing it.
    This one has a plastic retainer similar to that nut but with a wire spring on the outside that seems to lock it in place in the housing . Trouble is I cant tell by the directions how this plastic retainer comes out. Can anyone help me? Direction 16 is a bit sketchy to me. It seems to jump between rack types and you have to work out if it applies to yours...... it seems to jump steps and even the pictures are out of sequence.
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    Last edited: Jan 19, 2016
  2. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Worked it out ..made up a tool that is a flat washer with a 3/16 thick steel welded to it in the shape of a cross to locate in plastic rack end retainer. So I pushed the rack bar as far to the drivers side so its clear of retainer and pushed the tool into the slots in the section in the plastic retainer and rotated it until the wire end is visible and guided it through the slot in the body and wound the retainer back until the whole of the spring wire is out the slot and plastic retainer is now loose and comes out with your hands.
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    Last edited: Dec 26, 2015
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  3. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Ok with that retainer out all you have to do is apply considerable pressure to the rackbar end from the drivers end to contact and push the passenger side rack seal out of housing with the rackbar...now you have the rackbar out and all that is left is the drivers side rackbar seal so I modified a washer to closely fit the inner housing and pressed the seal towards the passenger side and it came out. only thing left is the inner pinnion seal that is straight forward ..just knock it out like any seal....or so I thought?
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    only pinion seal left to take out
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    now to replace the seals from this kit
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    Last edited: Dec 26, 2015
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  4. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Pinion bottom seal (I reckon this was the seal that was actually leaking ) didn't want to come out and because it was against the top pinion bearing you don't have much area to push against. Above it there are valve body seal surfaces that can't be damaged . So I had to make a tool from a 12 mm dyna bolt and welded a washer on to it and tapered the edge to bite on the edge of the seal and then cut 3 slots in it so it would move out with the dyna bolt . So I put it inside the seal lip and expanded the dyna bolt by doing up the centre bolt and it gripped on the seal. Then I hit from the bottom of the pinion hole with a drift so as I tapped the base of the dyna bolt it not only pushed the seal out ,but it expanded putting more pressure on the edges of the seal gripping it harder... Out it came. Now to get the new one back in... Again another mission.... Got a piece of threaded rod and found a washer same size as the seal outer diameter and got a swaybar rubber which was a good fit in the inner part of the seal and cut it down to the same width as the seal . Screwed nut on rod and put washer next against seal and pushed rubber over seal to centre the seal on the rod and put it through hole pinion hole until seal was at edge of hole and the thread stuck out and got another washer over rod where it exited the hole and screwed a nut on it and squared up washer and did up nut so it pulled seal into hole until it bottomed. ... Lot of stuffing around but did the job and didn't damage/ mark anything.
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    Last edited: Dec 25, 2015
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  5. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Next I lubed the seal lips and put the drivers oil seal over the rack bar (spring end first flat end last )and carefully slid it over the rack teeth and all the different parts of that side of the shaft until it was against the piston and then slid the passenger side seal over the other end of the rack bar a short way along the shaft and got the rack bar with the seals on it and carefully slid it as squarely as I could with a bit of auto oil lubrication into the housing as far as it would go easily with my hands from the passenger side
    Then put the plastic retainer over the passenger end and pressed on the retainer against the passenger side seal into the housing all the way noting how it felt when it bottomed .
    [​IMG]
    Got a large 15mm dia brass bar and pressed on the rack bar end from passenger side to push the driver side seal sitting against the piston home inside the housing all the way so it felt the same when it bottomed like the passenger one did.
    Next to get the rack ends on and get it all together so but on inspection the way they lock the rack ends in the rack bar threads is to put a slot on the rack bar on the end so the metal is fairly thin .So they screw the end in and press on the metal so it compresses and locks the thread... Ok in service but a mongrel if you are taking it apart. That part where it was compressed has damaged the thread on the rack end when I was taking it out and I really can't reuse it ... So I have got some new rack ends coming .They compress the metal quite a bit
    [​IMG]
    and I needed to touch up that part of the thread where it has been compressed on the very edge with a die grinder to make the start of the thread round so I could get a 14 x 1.5 mm tap in there to clean the thread up for the new end...reckon the new rack ends will be done up tight but im going to use locktite instead of compression
    Worked fine .. Saga continues
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2016
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  6. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Next the plastic bush put into its position next to the passenger rackbar seal and wind in the new wire retainer until it's completely inside . Then slide mount over housing on passenger side until it's at the marks you made originally .. You can get it exactly right when it's mounted in the car.
    Now because from factory they put that crimp on the inner rack threads on the original rack ends is trashed so now you have to make a decision on which aftermarket ones you are going to use.
    Do you get the 30 dollar ebay specials or the dearer ebay ones ... Factory ones are out of the question.. So I checked out the 30 dollar specials and they looked too cheap and the ball joint had some play I didn't like so I went with ones I found locally and they gave me the ep0 grease I need for the rack teeth for nothing .
    Put the flat section of the rack teeth in a soft jaw protected vice and with some loctite on the threads screwed both rack ends on to the rackbar and used considerable force.
    So I got the rack and pushed the rackbar as far as it would go to expose the teeth of the rack and coated it in ep0 grease and pushed it back to that position 39 mm rack end to housing and with pinion teeth coated in ep0 ,installed pinion into housing so it was in position as in post #1( took a bit of trial and error). Installed bottom pre greased pinion bearing on bottom of installed pinion and pulled it home with new retaining nut and screwed cover nut on until tight.
    Then I slipped top pinion seal over top of pinion shaft and into housing until it bottomed and exposed the circlip groove and installed the large circlip and then dust cover. Then I got the rack pad and greased the contact surface and installed it against rack bar and put spring in and screwed on adjusting nut. I tightened it to about 10 mn then backed of about 30 degrees and locked it up with big locknut.
    Next I measured the old tie rod ends on the old rack ends so I knew roughly where to install them on the new rack ends.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2016
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  7. adventra lx8

    adventra lx8 New Member

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    hi i know this is an old thread but struggling to find a part and this appears to be the most comprehensive thread about these racks. so the question do you or anyone you know know how to get a new plastic rack end bush/retainer part number 92143485 old part number 92140037 this part was discontinued in 2010 and i rang every holden dealer up and down the coast to no avail and seems to be no aftermarket supplier and all the steering places ive rang dont sell components only complete racks. ive found a vauxhall part number the same and says its a bush but no pics or dimensions so not sure if it would be the same. any help would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.
     
  8. markovr

    markovr Well-Known Member

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    Sorry just noticed this question...I used the old one as it wasn't worn out so I cant help ........but im not very impressed about the rack ends I used..bought from a local steering place who assured me they were quality from taiwan not china but I noticed today some play in the passenger end that the old end didn't have....goes to prove it isn't always the dearer part that is better..actually bought the cheapies and decided against using them...didn't like the way they seemed loose from new but they assured me they are ok..they werent
     
  9. wannaeatyourbrains

    wannaeatyourbrains New Member

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    Thanks, mate. Just had to figure this one out myself. Really nothing to it, with the good help of your write up. Mine was ancient, too.

    The only hard part for me was removing the hydraulic hoses. Brake line spanners just didn't cut it.

    A bit of heat, lubrication and a pair of carefully adjusted vice grips did the trick.
     
  10. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    markovr is the best person... ever.
     
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  11. stick3

    stick3 Active Member

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    this thread should be to the how to section so it easy to find
     
  12. Lex

    Lex Well-Known Member

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    Got to do something about those photo bucket pics before you could put it in the how to section?
     
    Last edited: Dec 5, 2019 at 3:22 PM
  13. stick3

    stick3 Active Member

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    i can see them but i do have photo bucket hot fix extension in google chrome
     
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  14. Fu Manchu

    Fu Manchu Well-Known Member

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    On behalf of every forum user in the world, Photobucket can go suck a fat one. Bloody extortionists.
     
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  15. wannaeatyourbrains

    wannaeatyourbrains New Member

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  16. ant797

    ant797 Member

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    beyond my skills think i would just go to the wreckers myself get a s/h one
     
  17. wannaeatyourbrains

    wannaeatyourbrains New Member

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    Having just completed this mission, I can tell you nothing is easier. Piece of piss. But don't start the mission if you get angry turning spanners in tight places, it is getting dark, or there are mosquitoes.

    Here's how it goes down. Don't forget to disconnect your battery first.

    Oh, by the way, I drive on the right hand side of the road here, so the steering wheel is on the left. You will figure it out. Think opposite to what I am telling you here. Better not do this drunk or high then.

    Remove three small screws, 8mm head, from the power steering lines nearest the radiator. The two held together with the plastic clamps, not the ones on the sump. Two are in front of the harmonic balance, one is under the power steering pump. Get into it with a long extension.

    Get a bit of rope. Attach it to one side of the steering wheel, loop it around the headrest of the driver's seat, and tie it to the other. This way, you know you are not twisting the wheel and breaking the spring inside it as you move it to get the rack out. Don't cross the ropes, right?

    Turn the wheel so the nut under the universal joint that joins the steering rod going through the firewall to the steering wheel to the rack is facing the bell housing. The steering lock holds everything in place, so you will need a bit of deft ignition key work. You can get your 13mm ring spanner in there onto that nut then, between the engine and the rod. Give it a spray with WD40 cause you are gonna want to spin that baby off with your fingers as soon as you can. Remove the nut and pull the bolt out. When you got it off, turn the wheel so where the nut was is directly facing the engine and lock it there.

    Reach down to the top hose nut of the power steering lines with a 16mm spanner and loose it off until it's gonna come out with your fingers. But don't completely undo it yet.

    Loosen your front wheel nuts.

    Jack your car up at the front and put it on stands.

    Cut the cable ties and pull the rubber boots off the side of the steering rack.

    Get a big spanner or shifter onto the steering rack end of the arms that attach to the rack. Get the jack under your shifter before you raise the car, and use the jack to push the end of the shifter up, applying the lever force. It will have those arms loosened in a jiffy, which will otherwise be a pain in the bum if you leave them tight till the rack is off.

    Get under the front of the car and undo the 8mm nut holding the top power steering line you just loosened to the chassis.

    Undo that steering line and pull it back out of the way a bit.

    Pull off the wheels.

    Undo the nuts and knock the joints at the wheel end of the rack arms out. Put an old nut on the top before you start bashing at them. If those tie rod end joints are difficult, you hit the housing sharply on the sharpest end with your meaty hammer. You know, a sharp bash on the housing perpendicular to the bit you want to get out, instead of trying to hammer the joint out like a nail. Pops it out like a curry gooner.

    Twist off the arms to reduce weight.

    Get your 19mm spanner and go in through the wheel arch and undo the bottom power steering hose and push that back out of the way.

    Hold the rack up with a bit of wood and the jack now, and undo the two 19mm bolts either end that fix it to the chassis.

    Tap it out of the end held in there with the bushing.

    Lower it down carefully with the jack. You might have to get up and pull the steering rod off. Mine just falls out of the bracket as I lower the rack down.

    You got it. Wipe all the transmission fluid you've been rolling around in off yourself.

    Undo the hydraulic hoses. If they are reluctant, put a bit of heat on them, and go for some prudent use of vice grips. Don't deform them, you don't have to go that hard. Don't leave them on there, cause you are only gonna **** em up, and ruin your nice job.

    Get your big old allen key and remove that huge allen key bolt. You'll need a man-size allen key for that. You can easy tell this car was designed for Australians. I stuck it in there, braced the end in a hole in a manhole cover on the road, and then used the long end of the rack as the lever to twist it. Just pushed down on it. No need to undo the lock nut them, which is a bastard. Whole lot comes out so easy.

    Knock the steel doodad under it out by hitting the opposite side lightly with your mallet. Make sure you're away from the road so nothing rolls down the gutter.

    Undo the 19mm cap over the pinion nut. You'll find it, cause it's the only one on there. It's just a cap. Bit of heat helps if it is stuck, one of mine was.

    Undo the 17mm nut on the end of the pinion inside.

    Undo the two bolts with your allen key holding the pinion housing onto the rack chamber. Tap it with a rubber mallet, off it comes. Pull out the pinion.

    Observe where seals and stuff are so you can put it back together. There's that diagram above too.

    Go to the long end of the rack. Look in there, you'll see the nylon end cap. Clean everything in there really well, and hit it with some DWD40, if dirt got in your rubber boot.

    Cut a nail to fit across the slots of the cap, and you can easy twist it with big pliers or multigrips to spin the wire circlip out of the hole. Just spin it anticlockwise till you see the end of the clip, pry it up with your screwdriver, and keep spinning. It's soft and easy. Scared of the big allen key, see. Out if comes. Use a pair of long nose pliers if you got the end cap with just holes, not slots. Put the points in the holes and twist, using a screwdriver as a lever if you need to.

    If you stick your broomstick into the pinion hole, sit in a chair and put your leg over the broomstick, and hold the rack between your legs, this twisting game is a breeze. I found my long nose pliers with the slot cap went either side of my piece of nail and down the hole in the rack arm, and - using a breaker bar as a lever - cracking it initially to get it spinning had it submissive in no time.

    Pull the nylon cap out if you want but you don't need to. You can just grab it with your long nose pliers. If it's reluctant leave it there for a stricter lesson.

    Then, just pull hard on the end of the rack arm where the end cap was, or use it like a slide hammer - or, if it hasn't learned yet, tap at it with your broomstick and mallet from the other side - and the whole kit and caboodle will come out. Be careful power steering fluid doesn't fly out the hydraulic hose holes, ha ha, if you are doing the slide hammer thing, and you are working somewhere your wife gets angry about. Sshhh...

    Then get a wooden broom stick and knock the seal out of the other end, the pinion end.

    All the other seals in the pinion housing etc. come out easy if you just gently lever them out with your long nose pliers.

    Observe how it was all put together.

    Change all your seals and O-rings etc., and put it all back together.

    Pretty much these steps in reverse.

    Honestly, it's an easy job.

    Best thing is, it's like brand new again, for $35. Sweet. I hate spending money on cars.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019 at 11:53 AM
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  18. wannaeatyourbrains

    wannaeatyourbrains New Member

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    I would like to add, I greatly regret buying an entire seal kit. Why spend unnecessary money? If you mark out where the arms go onto the rack and where you got the bush holding the rack to the chassis and line it all up when you reassemble, you don't even need a wheel alignment after this job. If you are careful and precise with everything, and do it slowly and patiently, this is just an undo and put back together job you could do again and again with the same bits.

    I fitted a new power steering rack a year ago because the edge of my old one got chipped by a rock when I drove off the road. So all the seals in it were still good. They are in there now, and it's not leaking a drop. I changed the two seals either end of the rack chamber, that go on the rack arm, but the rest was all fine. Really, I only needed to change one, the one that burst when I hit a speed bump too hard.

    In retrospect, I didn't need to mess around sourcing a seal kit and spending $35 to buy a whole bunch of stuff I didn't need. I could have gone down to the nearest industrial area or got online and bought a seal for $2, and a bottle of DEX III down the road for $3.

    I am kicking myself I spent $35 on something should have only cost me $5! The old power steering rack had probably been in there a decade, and it was the same seal gone on that one too. The rest was fine.

    I know complete disassembly is an easy job, by the way, because I practiced on the old one before I got stuck into the new one. I am gonna try fixing that one too by using some alloy braze I just ordered for next to nothing to mend the chip, cause it's only a little hole stopping the dust boot from completely sealing things off. I know a place out the back of some repair shops where there are power steering rack parts lying around in the pebbles like nuggets of gold, and I am gonna go get myself a chunk and shape it up with my angle grinder, see if that doesn't sort things out.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2019 at 11:52 PM
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