What is the right process to bleed brakes, Is scan tool required to bleed ABS system?

[3onTree]

I've searched for prior posts on the subject of automatic ABS brake bleeding using scan tool. I cannot find any posts on the subject in the VE forum. So two questions are posed here:

1. On the subject of Automatic Bleeding - can anyone advise when doing an Automatic Bleed using a scan tool is necessary?

2. On the subject of Manual Bleeding of every calliper - I use a vacuum pump but want to know if there is a specific order in which brake callipers should be bled ( which I understand is still necessary)? I've heard all sorts of opinions on the subject. Some techs have told me you need to start from the passenger rear wheel and do the driver side front wheel calliper last. I have also heard the exact opposite. I'm not looking for religion, does anyone know?

 

[ncass11]

manual bleed, you go from the furtherest from the master cylinder, so on a VE you start from the passenger Rear then driver Rear and pass Front then driver front

 

[ncass11]

and if you have air in the system i prefer to manual bleed it by pumping to make sure it gets all the air out, but if your just changing the brake fluid i just use the brake sucker if available

scan tool shouldn't be required,

 

[3onTree]

Thanks , on the manual bleed procedure, it seems your approach is the most common I've heard.

On the auto bleed I've heard / read that manual bleed won't remove trapped air from ABS module - you need to cycle the solenoids to evacuate air in the auto bleed program. Not sure why ABS module would trap air - anyway it's hard to say from user experience - pedal feel is not a VE strong point. Which is why the VF Redline features a revised master cylinder - apparently.

 

[Shorty33]

When my mechanic bled my Omega, he did it the way Ncass11 described: no scantool; with me pumping the pedal.
Used exactly 1.0 litre of fluid.
That was 18,00 km ago - zero problems.

 

[3onTree]

When my mechanic bled my Omega, he did it the way Ncass11 described: no scantool; with me pumping the pedal.
Used exactly 1.0 litre of fluid.
That was 18,00 km ago - zero problems.

Yeah I get the manual side of it. Weird thing pedal pressure and brake performance can be a but subjective at times. At a previous track day I was convinced I had a fault as I sat in the pits and floored by brake pedal. I was so pumped with adrenalin I was mashing my brake into the floor panicking that I would have no brakes at the end of the straight. All was good.

I spoke to a brake specialist today and he told me they only do auto bleed when major work is done to the braking system. So the tried and proven manual bleed will continue.

 

[itsme4g63]

Thanks , on the manual bleed procedure, it seems your approach is the most common I've heard.

On the auto bleed I've heard / read that manual bleed won't remove trapped air from ABS module - you need to cycle the solenoids to evacuate air in the auto bleed program. Not sure why ABS module would trap air - anyway it's hard to say from user experience - pedal feel is not a VE strong point. Which is why the VF Redline features a revised master cylinder - apparently.

Pedal feel might not be strong because of the weak brakes, Redline comes with the brembos up front so you can definitely tell the difference between the two models, especially when upgraded to full all around brembos.

Manual bleeding has never caused us a problem (did a "few" installs) just do it like stated above, furthest from mast first.

 

[ModySLR]

Redline comes with the brembos up front so you can definitely tell the difference between the two models, especially when upgraded to full all around brembos.

I agree that Redline comes with Brembos, but I don't think that they have different brake master-cylinder, as the ALL VE's comes with AP-Racing (Brembo's Brithish division I guess) brake master-cylinders and PBR's (who ever they are) brake calipers & pads.


And by the way, I did a manual brake oil change few months ago, and it still fine. I have to point out that it made a minimal difference to me. I used DOT4 Holden OEM brake oil. I have to try a DOT5 oil as I read that it is much better than DOT4 if you have a "spirited" driving style.

 

[itsme4g63]

To tell you the truth I run ATE DOT4 Fluid (6p/4p brembo combo) on my GTO/Monaro which costs a couple times more than standard brands and for regular driving I can't tell the difference. But when I did take it down the tail of the dragon (spirited 10mile forrest downhill) the difference was very obvious as I was the only one without boiling brake fluid.

 

[phillmac]

I just hook up the vacume air boy to the compressor to bleed all my toys. 1 man, cleaner, quicker and easier and does the same as pumping. Used to give my fav bike 1-2 pumps at the end but no diff so no more pumping for me and only open the nipple once if I get timing spot on. Better do the Holden as service is due and no way are they going to do it.