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Grantis1976
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Sorry mate! YES, stalling will just about cook anything, including your nerves!
Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.
What Oil Is Best For Your Motor
- Thread starter fergi
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T
thespiceweasel
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I use Magnatech.... opinions? The car seems to be the better for it cos after I bought it I don't know what they'd used but the oil was as black as the night sky... after the magnatec change it was all good.... it's expensive but it seems to work!
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thespiceweasel
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Just read Grantis' thread.... interesting
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From a personal point of view and has Grantis has mentioned I have found the Magnatec oil to be great, although on my aging VN I have found it finds leaks at times through the main seal due to being a thinner oil whereas the good old reliable GTX 2 I've never seen is even seep.
Still if you've had the main seal replaced or know yours is in good nick by all means use the more expensive stuff.
You've gotta wonder though what happens to all the metal shavings etc the oil pick up being 'magnetic' and all? They certainly aren't be drained anywhere that's for sure until you dump it all out.
Still if you've had the main seal replaced or know yours is in good nick by all means use the more expensive stuff.
You've gotta wonder though what happens to all the metal shavings etc the oil pick up being 'magnetic' and all? They certainly aren't be drained anywhere that's for sure until you dump it all out.
jetspin_vn
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Valvoline VR1 Racing - Would never go back to magnatec. Costs more and in my opinion was average performance wise.
Mike
Mike
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How are you getting an extra 120kms with a tank of premium?
What car have you got and what added 'features' have you given it? .
I've got a VN with a sports exhaust, two super turbo boxes and a decent air filter. If I put a tank of PULP in it has much better performance and a slightly different note but I still go through about the same amount of petrol.
I'm going to be putting a cold air intake in.
What car have you got and what added 'features' have you given it? .
I've got a VN with a sports exhaust, two super turbo boxes and a decent air filter. If I put a tank of PULP in it has much better performance and a slightly different note but I still go through about the same amount of petrol.
I'm going to be putting a cold air intake in.
Skid Pattern
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G'day everyone........
I know some have said most/all aditives are rubbish,....are we talking the ones that treat the oil only?....
Has anyone heard of ROIL?.......
Its surposed to coat the metal in the engine and not affect the oil.....
Will try to find brochure and post it here.
I think I might have thrown it out though.
Skids.
I know some have said most/all aditives are rubbish,....are we talking the ones that treat the oil only?....
Has anyone heard of ROIL?.......
Its surposed to coat the metal in the engine and not affect the oil.....
Will try to find brochure and post it here.
I think I might have thrown it out though.
Skids.
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300rwhp supra. yay.
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Geez, talk about digging up and old thread......
Have heard of "roil" or something like that, an addative, but only heard bad things. "rooted my oil pressure, way to high" and stuff like that.
Have heard of "roil" or something like that, an addative, but only heard bad things. "rooted my oil pressure, way to high" and stuff like that.
bradcad
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you lot have probably heard me say it before but....
PM Lubricants- I'll back them all the way.
Why?
They test your oil for free every 5 or 10 000ks. If all is running well, and you are not doing short trips or if there is nothing else contaminating the oil, you will get up to 40 000k's on the one sump, after the first change (the first change there is always residual oil from the last lot)
Why I like them so much is because if you tell them you want to change it after 5 or 10 000k's, they actually explain what the oil does and, provided it passes testing, how long it is expected to last.
Quite frankly, an oil change is cheap and easy, at around $55 for 5 litres and a filter. The main reason for undergoing the full testing proceedure is to understand exactly what is taking place inside the motor- are bearings wearing, are you starting to run rich, is the air filter blocked? All of these factors can be found in the testing process.
My favourite test- run the oil you have now. Take it to a lab for an independant analasys (around $33). Then, change to PM and run it for longer. Take a sample to the same lab and get the same test done. They guarantee that even after doubling the distance travelled since an oil change, their oil will show markedly less wear particles.
And they have found most oil additives only last around 3000 k's before it has lost its effectiveness. There was one they said lasted longer but I cant remember its name. It wasnt common though
PM Lubricants- I'll back them all the way.
Why?
They test your oil for free every 5 or 10 000ks. If all is running well, and you are not doing short trips or if there is nothing else contaminating the oil, you will get up to 40 000k's on the one sump, after the first change (the first change there is always residual oil from the last lot)
Why I like them so much is because if you tell them you want to change it after 5 or 10 000k's, they actually explain what the oil does and, provided it passes testing, how long it is expected to last.
Quite frankly, an oil change is cheap and easy, at around $55 for 5 litres and a filter. The main reason for undergoing the full testing proceedure is to understand exactly what is taking place inside the motor- are bearings wearing, are you starting to run rich, is the air filter blocked? All of these factors can be found in the testing process.
My favourite test- run the oil you have now. Take it to a lab for an independant analasys (around $33). Then, change to PM and run it for longer. Take a sample to the same lab and get the same test done. They guarantee that even after doubling the distance travelled since an oil change, their oil will show markedly less wear particles.
And they have found most oil additives only last around 3000 k's before it has lost its effectiveness. There was one they said lasted longer but I cant remember its name. It wasnt common though