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What temp does your VS V6 sit at

hako

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I agree Brett.....something I've noticed over 6 years is that despite keeping my cooling system in apparently perfect condition - all new hoses/heater valve/red longlife coolant/new thermostat/waterpump - I notice the temp gauge runs 1 notch higher than a few years ago and when climbing the Toowoomba range with 5 people on board and A/C on in mid-summer she gets up to 3/4 whereas before it would be 2/3rds. I also notice a rust deposit on the inside of hoses I replace but the coolant remains either bright green or red depending on what type I'm using.
Just getting old I figure.
 

Brett_jjj

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Mine gets the same rusty looking slimy buildup inside the hoses and under the radiator cap.I always use good quality coolant for the Commodore/Toyota V6 engine but its still always there.I think this buildup coats the water jackets inside the block as it ages and causes the coolant to be less efficient at soaking the heat out of the block.The radiator tubes are probably coated in the same stuff.Also I think some VS gauges arent the best with accuracy.Mine will only go to half way then the fan cuts in and drops it to a quarter or thereabouts(when Idling).It sits around the 3rd mark when on the highway on a hot day,and then on a cool night on the highway it sits at the second mark. You say that yours goes to 3/4,and a lot of other people say a similar thing.It would be interesting to get 2 VS's that have a different operating temp "place" on the gauges,and measure some temperatures around the engine and radiator etc after a similar run.3/4 doesnt leave much room to go to the hot mark.I wonder if there was a faulty batch of temp gauge senders made,But Id be betting on the gauge being out of whack a bit.It is too common a problem to be the engine running hot or overheating.
 

RX25SE

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Mine runs at about 1/3 but will creep to nearly 1/2 on a hot day.
With a/c on it sits around 1/4.

As the BCM controls low fan operation and PCM hi fan, some times the main earth point near the battery gets a little loose or corroded. This inhibits the low fan relay operation and means only the hi fan will operate at a higher engine temp of around 3/4.
 

fkford

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mine sits just below half on a hot day but if AC is on it sits at 1/4.. used to sit 3/4's - annoyed the crap out of me coz people kept saying that was normal which it WASNT. Ended up being electrolysis
 

sus steven

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hey mate just keep driving to steam comes from under the bonnet then you know it's hot
 

CAMZVS

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started goin back up to 3/4 again. Had it on a scan tool tool and 3/4 on my gauge is 106 degress and the fan kicks in and thats exactly what they should do. so i guess its just my guage playing up
 

nugatory

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Mine used to sit around the 2nd notch on the highway nice and cool then get up to a 1/2 in traffic then the thermo kicks in and cooled it back down to half.

Then after a round at the mechanics it started going up to 3/4's then coming back down to a half in traffic. On the highway it'd come down to about a 1/3rd.

Then the heater tap blew under pressure and the temp was sitting around 3/4's when the water dropped out on the highway, then the motor cooked and was basically stuffed.

So I found a donor car for $500 checking the engine ran good, and I got a good one. I replaced all the hoses, got a new heater tap, etc and did an engine swap and now the engine sits back around the 2nd notch on the freeway and only ever gets up to a half.

It has gotten up to 3/4's once and I thought this was serious because it really should never get that warm. It puts extra pressure on the heater tap and you'll get into strife like I did. That was a really hot day too (Brisbane Heat) during the heat wave and even the power steering overheated that day but haven't had any problems since. I also flushed the power steering fluid after that.

When your car is running at 3/4's, it takes away the feeling that there's something wrong and this could happen to you on the freeway, so whatever it is, get it fixed so that way you can panic when it actually happens.

It's possible the heater tap or thermostat is causing problems, so I'd replace both and get a whole set of new radiator hoses and heater tap hoses.

When replacing the hoses at the heater core itself make sure you cut them off carefully because pulling on these hoses can damage the heater core inside or pull /rip the fitting on the heater box.
 

aceventura

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My sender died about a year ago - I went to Holden and they gave me a sender similar to the second image. When I pulled the old one out I noticed that it was similar to the first image and much shorter than the replacement (VS Series I Berlina). I installed it and took the car for a drive, only to find that normal operating temp was now half way on the gauge (instead of a quarter, when the old one was working).

I went back to Holden and told them the one they sold me was different to the one I removed, and they ordered in a different (shorter) sender. When I installed it, temperature back to normal. I can't say whether the longer sender was faulty or just the incorrect part, but it may be worth considering if you change the sender over and have problems.
 

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CAMZVS

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nah mate its got a new rad, thermostat, hoses, heater tap and everything its just a **** guage that wont move of the stop of until 65 degrees and 3/4 is 106 degrees.
 
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