What to add to the oil to clean the inside of the engine on a vt

[Sabbath']

Nolothane castor rod bushes far outlive their rubber, standard counterparts. Replaced a set on a customers car on friday that were rubber and the car was on its second set in 190,000km. Im not expecting to need to change the nolathane counterpart for the life of the vehicle.

 

[devilly]

only problem with nothanine , is if you put it on incorrectly it may compact and damage it,or if you way over tighten it. i used a talk wrench, biggest problem with the vt is the tie rod ends the instructions i got were incorrect, and in haynes and max ellery are both incorrect,i got the instructions from utube nothanie. as the doughnuts go at the top not the bottom.thanks heaps will get and additive when do next oil change, I have vc sle rims and brand new tyres on my vt. The day i see nicer looking mags is the day these will come off.

 

[gossie]

Use a quality engine oil suited to you VT with a new filter, change it at 3 months also with a new filter, then change the oil and filter every 6 months and you will be looking good.

FWIW I have used Magnatec oil in several Commodore's and other cars I've had, and for the price I find it a very good oil........It often comes up on special as well at various places.......Grab a bottle or two when it does.

 

[XUV]

brought a second hand car ,has been not been looked after ,just wanted to fix it clean it and maintain it properly.so far have degreased engine,new engine mounts as right side was broken,new struts, shockys springs and all front end done ,brand new nothanine rubbers on the whole front end,
new brake pads front and back,changed engine oil and filter, new fuel filter, gearbox done.new coolant,new spark plugs, i brought it with a red front bumper,have finished painting and clear coated, just put in fuel injector cleaner,and remember there was a good one for the engine but couldn't remember the name. are there any other things i might want to do to make it a safer and more reliable car ?

How many kays?
Before you do the oil flush, take the rocker covers off and see how much sludge, if any, is there, post a pic.

 

[gm1961]

Hi All

Thats is the problem with used cars ( and no i never bought a new car) , no log books makes it harder , and some times stamped log books can be fake history

Engine flush, yeah well it may or may not work

Why , as mentioned , if the damage is very minor, you can use the additive or cleaner run it up to temperature or follow instructions, then dump the oil and change the filter.
Me i would then add a new cheap filter and some cheap oil and run the car for a few days or 200 k's and then again dump the oil and filter

Why , i would rather waste a set of cheap oil and filter say $30 and have the engine as close to clean as you can with these things , the only other solution is very pricey and involves engine removal and strip down - not practical or price effective.

If you run the additive for a while as mentioned you risk having it 'flake off' and circulating in the engine, this will do more damage as it will get caught in the oil pick up and block it , get caught in the oil filter , and circulate in the engine, this is horrible as it may get caught in the any of the bearings oil feed , they are quite fine and will not take much to slow down the rate of oil or block it.

The gamble is that the engine has slight junk in it and it was cleaned / flushed and dumped , but you will never know.

I high mileage or badly serviced engine has already been damaged by neglect , in some respect most of the junk will be baked on the rockers and top of the head, this is why taking a rocker cover of and having a look and posting a photo will reveal how the rest of the engine will be like.

This is why i like old school and service sticker on the cars windscreen.

If you like next oil change , if you do not want to take the rocker cover of , then get a knife and slice open the oil filter, that will show how much junk it collected.

With most used cars that i buy ( we have 4 drivers in the family ) , i generally do a oil change asap unless it has a recent sticker on it ,then at 3,000 or 5,000 k's do another service and pay attention how the oil came out and i cut open the filter, if it is nice and clean i know there is a change things are fine, or it looks like gravel and mud you know otherwise.

BUT if the engine has good oil pressure and is quiet then it is still fine and regular oil changes at 10,000k's or 4 months will be fine.

Oil is the blood of a engine, even a damaged / neglected engine will run well with fresh oil , the rate of damaged is now minimal.


Diesel and kerosene in the engine is a old fix, in the old holden red 6 , some people added a cup of diesel fuel or kerosene as a thinner to get into the oil tube and have more pressure to blow crud out, this is a wrong long term thing to do, some people are happy to add it the day before a service and do say hours travel or 20 k's

Diesel engine oil is totally different to petrol engine oil , it has some detergents in it used to clean the block as diesel fuel is oily compared to petrol and can leave film / slime in the cylinders

i know of 2 instances where people used diesel engine oil ( 1 on purpose and one by mistake ) and engine failure happened within a month - both these happened in the late 80's

Engine oil will get black fast , it is the in the fuel ( i think the carbohydrates ) , if anyone here has LPG only car, they will advise that there engine oil stays the original yellow / gold for a long time and is still a dark honey colour after a few thousand k's , this is down to the cleanliness of LPG - the same way it does not foul the spark plugs ( and the plugs are a lower heat rating as well , when cars get old and use oil the plugs blacked with oil fumes, going 1 or 2 steps to a hotter plug makes them last longer before fouling up - again my old holden 6 days and carbys )


regards
george

 

[JMP]

When I bought my car years ago it was pretty neglected. I changed the oil and filter monthly for a while to try and get the oil clean (this thing had the blackest oil I've ever seen in an engine), but the oil would go black again within a week of changing it. I gave up on getting it clean so went back to regular servicing, it used to use 4 litres every 10,000 klms so I decided the engine was to far gone to worry about and I'll just replace it when it carks it.
Last year after owning this car for about 8 years and the engine still going as good as it ever has it overheated, it didn't get to red on the gauge but it got pretty hot and it had no water left so the gauge wouldn't have been very accurate anyway. Gave it an oil change, flushed the cooling system and she ran nicer than she ever had since owning her but now my oil can go 10,000 klms and stay relatively clean and it only uses about a litre in that time. I figured that when the engine got hot it must have been enough to thin the sludge inside and move it to the sump, seeing as I changed the oil pretty soon after it overheated I must have got most of it out which may explain why it now stays clean for longer but I'm stumped as to why my oil consumption has dropped and why it runs nicer. I have no doubt the overheating has damaged it in some form but it seems it may have also been the best thing that has happened to it for a long while.

 

[devilly]

ks are 4 something,have the battery disconnected at the moment,been working flat out on it all weekend,taking off the door trims painting the speakers black e.t.c as soon as finished will get pics up

 

[Tsunamix]

I see you commenting this on every post and it is just not true. Poly bushes have come a long way since first introduced and with correct lubrication pose no issue.

In some areas where bushes come in direct contact with the chassis, NVH may be increased but that's it.

Polyurethane is a 2 part epoxy. It comes down to how well they pour the bush, and whether they choose the right hardness of Urethane as to whether it works well or not. Add to that the fact that hard urethanes DON'T pour well into moulds, and you get some real issues.

Most importantly - NEVER lubricate urethane bushes with anything except wax / paraffin based lubes. If it squeaks - use candle wax or dry lube. Grease trap contaminants against the surface, which increases abrasion. While most polyurethanes have decent impact resistance, and good tearing resistance, abrasion is weak (compared to Nylon, Steel, Brass, UHMWPE and ceramics).

It was designed as a liner for coal hoppers initially.