Welcome to Just Commodores, a site specifically designed for all people who share the same passion as yourself.

New Posts Contact us

Just Commodores Forum Community

It takes just a moment to join our fantastic community

Register

Xenon hod 5500k h3 bulbs commodore

Jimmy SV6

Colours Wow, Now It Glows
Joined
Apr 1, 2009
Messages
112
Reaction score
1
Points
0
Age
39
Location
Hornsby, Sydney
Members Ride
[Black] 05 VZ SV6 [Auto]

VzVzVz

New Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2009
Messages
392
Reaction score
3
Points
0
Location
Port Melbourne
Members Ride
VZ S ute
You're on the right track, but H3 globes are foglight globes. You want the H7 globes for the lowbeams, and H1 for the highbeams. They're pretty easy to replace, just take the battery out and follow the owners manual from there.

I've got white lowbeams with white highbeams and blue led parkers. The parkers give it a nice blue tint.
 

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

I love puddles.
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,166
Reaction score
392
Points
83
Location
Darwin NT
Members Ride
VFII MY17 SV6 (LFX) Sportwagon (SOLD)
Why do you mention, "...just take the battery out and follow the owners manual from there"?
Aside from that, it's pretty darned tight and congested getting to the back of the lights. Probably just luck but I've only had one blown headlight in 25 years of driving and didn't think anything of removing the battery to put a new one in (notwithstanding, 25 years on, it's probably true precautions are necessary with these engines/computers?).
 

richardpalinkas

Blown Alloytec
Joined
May 4, 2009
Messages
2,290
Reaction score
16
Points
38
Location
Gold Coast
Members Ride
Raptor Impulse VZ SV6
Why do you mention, "...just take the battery out and follow the owners manual from there"?
Aside from that, it's pretty darned tight and congested getting to the back of the lights. Probably just luck but I've only had one blown headlight in 25 years of driving and didn't think anything of removing the battery to put a new one in (notwithstanding, 25 years on, it's probably true precautions are necessary with these engines/computers?).

if you can squeeze your hand between the battery and drivers side headlight, i would be amazed. thats why you need to take it out. well not take it out, but move it to the side :)
 

Benboy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2007
Messages
2,466
Reaction score
105
Points
63
Location
Hill River, SA
Members Ride
2007 SVZ Wagon
If you intend to make any modifications (changes) to your headlights, it would pay to study the following information to do otherwise may result in embarrassment for you at time of vehicle inspection (by RTA or Police etc):

Motor vehicles have been required to comply with Australian Design Rules (ADR's) for lighting since October 1991. ADR 13 mandates the number and position of lamp assemblies, ADR 46 prescribes the photometric requirements of the lamp itself and ADR 51 is the standard for filament bulbs.

ADR 51 accepts ECE regulation 37 as an alternative standard for filament bulbs and prescribes the dimensional and photometric requirements for filament bulbs (including headlamps). This ensures inter-changeability and correct functioning when installed in a complying lamp unit.

All complying bulbs sold in Australia would be marked with the "E" mark and possibly the words "Suitable for European Use". The packaging may also indicate compliance with ADR 51 or ECE 37.

When a replacement complying bulb of the correct type (for example H4 45/60 Watts) for a complying headlamp is fitted to that assembly, the light emitted will be within the spectral requirements for white light. This will not be in breach of Section 63 to Schedule 1 of the Transport Operations (Road Use Management- Vehicle Safety and Standards) Regulation 1999.
Although these lamps are a standard fitment to many newer vehicles, a "blue" complying lamp can be fitted to a lamp assembly on a vehicle that was not originally fitted with these bulbs.

It is important to note that ADR 51 limits the power of various bulb types, and bulbs of a similar style but higher power rating will not comply and should not be used. For example, the common H4 bulb that has a complying rating of 45/60 watts, is available in much higher rating of 45/100 watts. The higher powered bulbs produce more glare and the resulting light pattern would not comply with the ADR.

Although regulations do not require drivers of pre-1991 vehicles to fit complying bulbs, consumers should be careful when fitting non-complying "blue" light bulbs to pre-ADR vehicles, as the resulting light spectrum may fall outside the standard for white light (that is, the blue frequencies may predominate).

If a Licenced Examiner suspects that the light output from a headlight appears blue, the examiner should take appropriate action based on the following summary tables:

For vehicles manufactured on or after 1 October 1991
• Bulb must be marked.
• Bulb must be the correct wattage.

For vehicles manufactured prior to 1 October 1991
• Bulb does not have to be marked.
• Bulb may be alternative higher wattage.
• Bulb must not show obvious blue light (when viewed directly ahead).

Licenced Examiners Action:
If, during the course of an inspection, Licenced Examiners have cause to inspect vehicles modified by changing the original lighting componentry assemblies, they are to ensure that individual vehicles comply with the previously mentioned details. Modifications of this type
which do not comply with the above requirements are to be rejected immediately.
 

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

I love puddles.
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,166
Reaction score
392
Points
83
Location
Darwin NT
Members Ride
VFII MY17 SV6 (LFX) Sportwagon (SOLD)
No, I cannot get my hand behind the light (and I have a pixie's hands!). Not much room I can see to "move it aside". What about just unscrew the light assembly and work from there? Or are there screws galore in hidden, inaccessible places? (Not that I can see: just 2 visible ones...).

That bit about the ADR relating to lights is valuable food for thought. Maybe eBay sellers should publish a caveat emptor to forewarn impinging upon regulations.
 

1FATVZ

New Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2010
Messages
81
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Melbourne
Members Ride
2005 VZ Commodore SV6
I changed my headlights and highbeams with 5000k philips bulbs, they werent hard at all to change over. I just slided the batery back abit and took the intake pipe out on the other side. The parkers were the hardest because it was tight as to turn then pull them but it just takes abit of time. I ended up going with white led parkers as i think coloured ones look too jap.

My 4300k philips foglight globes should be here soon, so ill get them changed also.
 

2004_VZ_Acclaim

Bonkers
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Brisbane,QLD
Members Ride
VZ Acclaim
No, I cannot get my hand behind the light (and I have a pixie's hands!). Not much room I can see to "move it aside". What about just unscrew the light assembly and work from there? Or are there screws galore in hidden, inaccessible places? (Not that I can see: just 2 visible ones...).

That bit about the ADR relating to lights is valuable food for thought. Maybe eBay sellers should publish a caveat emptor to forewarn impinging upon regulations.

Yeah i agree with that, it's either move the battery or remove the front bumper to then remove the headlight assembly,however 2 visible screws are hard to get to though on each light.
 

Big Red VF-SII Go-kart

I love puddles.
Joined
Aug 3, 2010
Messages
1,166
Reaction score
392
Points
83
Location
Darwin NT
Members Ride
VFII MY17 SV6 (LFX) Sportwagon (SOLD)
Is it necessary to actually remove the front bumper/fairing just to remove the headlight assembly? I would presume this is an involved job and has something to do with overall security of fitment (of lights or general access to engine area)?

I upped the bonnet and loosened the battery hold down clamps and was able to effect substantial clearance i.e. enough for my hand, to access the larger cap on the lights. Haven't removed or touched anything, just "feeling around" how things are done. Discovered I have an Ag9 calcium battery and nearby, the alternator is marked 120Amp. What does this latter item suggest??
 

2004_VZ_Acclaim

Bonkers
Joined
Jan 18, 2010
Messages
107
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Brisbane,QLD
Members Ride
VZ Acclaim
Is it necessary to actually remove the front bumper/fairing just to remove the headlight assembly? I would presume this is an involved job and has something to do with overall security of fitment (of lights or general access to engine area)?

I upped the bonnet and loosened the battery hold down clamps and was able to effect substantial clearance i.e. enough for my hand, to access the larger cap on the lights. Haven't removed or touched anything, just "feeling around" how things are done. Discovered I have an Ag9 calcium battery and nearby, the alternator is marked 120Amp. What does this latter item suggest??

Yeah it is necessary.there are four things holding it together,which requires a 10mm socket to remove the headlight assembly (my tool lingo isn't that great haha) 2 are underneath the bumper,one on top of the light and one between the back of the light and battery,at least for my Acclaim anyway. having said that moving the battery would mean you wouldn't have to take the bumper off and remove the headlight itself. no idea on your second q sorry :p
 
Top