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Yes, It was the ABS Module

11gothevt11

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Did this work for you???
How do i dissconnect it where is it?
 

amac

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Im having the same problems with warning lights etc, where do i find the ABS module, please
 

accentstencil

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Im having the same problems with warning lights etc, where do i find the ABS module, please

In the engine bay, on the driver's side near the brake master cylinder. It's got about six little pipes attached.
 

lufkin

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just noticed the picture showing the sticker you need to look at when replacing abs module, well i need to replace mine, have taken mine out to find the number on bottom, and it appears the sticker is missing, where to from here? :(
 

Quill

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ABS Control Module

I've just been through this too. The various warning lights, more or less in the sequence described previously, then the (Berlina) gear indicator would come and go, sometimes the fuel gauge wouldn't work, and the trip computer was all up the duff.

After getting the $808 (parts only) quote from the local dealer, I scanned the various threads on several forums, and finally settled for the repair service offered by Iowa8 on eBay (just search for ABS Module Repair Service) for $150. Removal took about 10 minutes, and it cost me a little more than $10 to send the control module Express Post to Melbourne. I got it back, repaired, yesterday (that's about 5 days turn around, with the weekend in the middle) and it was back under the bonnet in another 10 minutes. All problems fixed. I'll let you know if my celebrations are premature...

The removal process is described in other threads, but I have photos if anyone's interested (I'm just not sure how to post them yet... If anyone's interested, yell and I'll make the effort to work out how). You only have to replace the 'electronics', not the whole box and dice.

The bottom line is $808 + labour from the dealer (don't get me wrong, they were really happy to offer advice on doing it myself) or $161 and 20 minutes (DIY-so you know a little bit more about your car when you're done!).
 

Quill

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The following are the photos that might help see what's required.

First up, the ABS control unit, located on the left hand side of the engine bay.

ABS Control Unit.jpg


Pull out the (orange) cable connector lock.

Slide Out Connector Lock.jpg


Remove the main cable connector.

Remove Connector.jpg


Loosen off the two nuts, either side of the top/back of the unit (they're a bit hard to see in the photo below, but you can see them in the next photo), and lift the front of the unit up in the 'mounting cradle'. You pretty much have to do this to get at the bottom two screws that hold the control module to the main unit.

Raise Unit up in Cradle.jpg


Remove the six torx head screws holding the Control Module to the main ABS unit body. The control module will come away easily when the screws are removed.

Note that there is a second cable connected to the bottom left side of the control module. You will also need to disconnect this before removing the Control Module.

CM Removed.jpg


This is what's left after the Control Module is removed. Note the two cables that have been disconnected. I just hung the main cable under the front of the unit and covered everything with a clean rag that I 'stuffed' securely in place. It's fine to drive the car like this. The ABS/Traction Control system won't work of course, but that's all.

Unit wo CM.jpg


This is what I sent to Iowa8 for repair. Although it's difficult to see in the photo, there are a couple of pieces of clear packaging tape stuck across the face of the module to stop the actuators from flapping around during shipping. The tape also kept the face of the unit 'sealed' and clean while it was out of the car.

Control Module.jpg


Just to be complete, this is the product label on my Control Module.

Part Number.jpg
 

jafo

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thanks to this thread and some friendly advice from another person my abs module is now out of the car

only thing i found was the plug at the bottom has 2 wires that are clipped into the casing of the module but they slide out sideways easily enough

do not yank at the module to get it out or you will break the wires
 

MELALF

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Cooking the module

I had the same problem and thought that it may have lost contact between the two points of communication. So removed the module placed it on a cake cooling tray plastic side up then put the cooling tray on a baking tray. Heated the oven to 175 degrees (make sure it is fully pre heated before placing the part in the oven). Place it in the oven and bake for 10 minutes while keeping an eye on it for distortion etc. As soon as ten minutes are up pull it out of the oven with a towell etc as it will be hot and allow it to cool down. Install the part onto the car. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL BEFORE AND DURING WORKING ON THE MODULE. You will have to reset the radio pin as power was interupted.

I completed this and it is still running without any lights or alarms coming on. So far so good, hope it continues. All it cost me was $12 for a full set of hex keys, pretty cheap fix if it keeps working.

It works by setting the contact points together that over time and heat manage to disconnect. All the best but please take care you do not over do it with the heating.
 

sporty custom

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had same prob on vt turned out to be plug wasnt plugged in properly to abs module.
 

Tenthumbs

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Hi Guys,
just wanted to say THANKS!

I have had this problem for months now, have taken it to a mechanic and an auto electrician and they just scratched their heads.

I disconnected the ABS unit today and the only light that come on are ABS, Trac Control and Low Trac. All the others are now safely off, my fuel gauge works, no oil pressure warning, now drive train warning, like a new car LOL...

Will grab an exchage module off Iowa8 on Ebay and should have the problem fixed in a week. Happy days.

Thanks again to everyone esp Quill (for the photos) I didn't even know what an ABS module looked like till today.

Lets see if my ten thumbs can install it properly...
 
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