Your stereo history...

[Fun_Bucket]

First ever ecounter with car audio was an 8" tornado sub, sitting in the bottom draw of my desk, wired up to a home Hi Fi lol..

VW Golf
Stock head unit
$30 pioneer speaker in the left door (couldnt get the right door trim off lol)
Upraded them to Soundstream 6.5 coaxials (and finally figured out the right door trim )
Cheap,and i mean cheap, Clarion 6x9's on the rear shelf
Entry level Pioneer head unit (which i somehow managed to blow the ouptut's on..)
Replaced with entry level Sony head unit
Kenwood KFC 3011 12' sub, pre-fab arepro sealed box
Dub mag audio 2 channel amp (ashamed of myslef lol) i even displayed the sticker on my windshield !!!

2x Blaupunkt vw 250's 10'
2x Clarion AP mono block amps

VP Commodore (current car)
Pioneer DEH 3000IB
Alpine 4'' coaxials dash mount locations
Sony XSDI 6.5' splits
Kicker KS series 6x9's
Kenwood KAC8404 amp
Boss 2 channel amp
Soundstream 15''SPL sub
Clarion APX1301 mono amp
Beva sealed enclosure (which collapsed WTF lol)

Removed Dash speakers and 6x9's, and 4 and 2 channel amps
Front pods, still under construction
18mm MFD ported enclosure as per Soundstreams 40hz enclosure, (to be resined aslo and trimmed)
Clarion AP mono amp
Pioneer GM5200t amp

 

[acarmody]

Don't think a full tutorial would be needed, so I'll give a quick rundown.

Needed:
-Vinyl, I used the Zephyr stuff from Spotlight.
-Good knife, I find the $15 Kincrome foldaway knife that comes with 10 spare blades excellant value and extremely sharp (When bored I cut my nails with this knife, it is very sharp!).
-Contact bond, I used 'Sellets Kwik Grip Advanced Contact Adhesive', comes with spreader, but many brands just as good.
-Finally Sub-box, duh .

1. PLAN out the dimensions for the box/vinyl, you want the seams at the back or underneath, somewhere invisible. Planning is where I failed on the first box and I'm unhappy with the results.

2. Cut vinyl to shape.

3. To apply contact adhesive, you put a thin layer (only holding vinyl no need for massive amounts) on both surfaces you are sticking together, so vinyl AND box. Allow contact adhesive to become to clear or touch dry, read product label. FAIR WARNING when both surfaces with the semi-dry glue touch they will NOT seperate, be careful and take your time, this stuff instantly grips. I find the front of the box, aka, where sub goes in, to be the best side to start with, just vinyl over sub hole and when dry cut hole out with knife.

4. Do each other side, one at a time. So apply, spread, let semi-dry, press, and ready to start next side. Takes about 20 minutes to semi-dry, depends on product and weather, cold, humid nights take longer than say during the day.

5. If you want a plush look you can apply foam to the wood and then the vinyl to the foam. But the foam absorbs huge amounts of the glue, so you will need heaps. Also takes *hours* for the glue to semi-dry, and frankly all the extra cost and trouble isn't really worth it (in my opinion).

Need any more help just post up and I will try to answer.

 

[SPLcamry]

Thanks for that. It's bloody so easy to do. Il give it a try when i get the MDF for my box tomorrow.

 

[Nathan_Vs_1996]

i sadly still havent even been able to get a new system got the old holden tape hahahah

 

[White Tiger]

1974 triumph 2500tc
alpine mp3 hedunit
2 alpine Eclass 6" rear parcel shelf

1989 vn executive wagon
same head unit
100watt 4" yokahoma splits in dash
6" stock speakers in front door pods from vr
pioneer 310watt 6" by 9"s powered by pioneer 300watt amp in back
fusion 10" active tube sub

1996 vs executive sedan on gas
stock till i put all the stuff from the wagon in it except the 4"s and stocky speaks

to see first 2 go 2 White Tiger's Pictures - MySpace Photos