diysv6
Active Member
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- Dec 17, 2005
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- SEQ
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- VF S1 SV6 STORM A6: VZ S1 SV6 A5
This a bit long - tried to cover the process and record observations.
My front end was getting generally noisy, wandering, moving around under/after braking so I decided to replace all of the Z Bar/ Front Radius Arm Strut Rod (Nolathane speak) bushes in my VZ SV6. (103,000KMs). After my last wheel alignment, my mechanic advised me that my original oil filled front bushes were aged, and would be in need of replacement before the next wheel alignment.
I decided to bite the bullet and replace the oil filled Holden bushes with a Nolathane Caster shim kit #48166, and replace the lower control arm, (LCA), rubber bushes with genuine factory bushes. I was wary of going too firm on the front end, so did not fit the Nolathane kit #48019.
The excess thread past the Nyloc nuts on the Z Bar was the first problem. There was about 18mm on the driver's side and 23mm on the passenger side. I had to buy in a long reach socket (15/16" 3" long) to be able to undo the Nyloc nuts without mangling them. Didn't have a large ring spanner. Needed the socket to torque the final settings. (148Nm).
Removing the original driver's side bush raised a clearance problem. I used an F-Clamp to hook into the chassis and then gently pull the lower control arm back so that I got clearance to remove the oil filled bush. Only needed about 4-6mm. Some contributors have lifted the radiator up and disturbed transmission oil lines etc. The F-Clamp worked OK for me. Tighten the 4 flange nuts to 23Nm. They are known to shear when over tightened, and the job to remove the broken stud is tedious and time consuming.
I cut away the front rubber flange on the control arm bushes, tried to hammer the old bush out. Ended up using a G-Clamp with various sockets to push the old bush out towards the rear of the car. When about half way out I was able to hammer the bush clear. The passenger side bush was looser than the driver's side bush. It appears that badly worn bushes hammer out fairly easily.
I installed the new bushes from the steering rack side of the LCA, using soapy water and a long 12mm hex bolt with about 40 flat washers, and selected sockets, to slowly set the rubber bush in place. I used the Holden flanged nut which "sockets" into the rubber bush to centre the bush as I pressed it into place. (Tighten to 103Nm when finished).
I followed my mechanic's advice about the various configurations of the shims to best suit my car. Front suspension is all original FE2 springs, struts, bushes, bearings etc. Followed the Nolathane instructions which left a bit to be desired for clarity. I have made a sheet up showing the shim locations for my installation and attached some photos. The lubrication rule is to grease any Nolathane surface coming in contact with metal. Had the wheel alignment done. He didn't have to reconfigure the shims during the wheel alignment. Toe out was present as the new bushes had brought the LCAs forward.
I had tried watching the front end dive and bounce back under braking. There was some movement within the wheel arch. The original oil filled bushes seemed intact. I drilled holes in them and was able to get oil from both. I presume the oil filled rubber chamber/s were deteriorated, thus contributing to the front end geometry changes and suspension noise.
Overall, the car is quieter in the front end, there is no uncomfortable physical "feedback" or road-feel back to the steering wheel, steers more positively and feels balanced, turns into corners like it's on rails, (was about 1 rail before bush replacements), steering self centres smoothly after corners, does not drift much on roads with excess camber. (It needed a continuous trim pressure on the steering wheel to stay in the lanes on our SEQ road network). Motorway driving feels more stable. Braking is more precise, no bounce-back on stopping.
Taken all round, the car feels good.
My front end was getting generally noisy, wandering, moving around under/after braking so I decided to replace all of the Z Bar/ Front Radius Arm Strut Rod (Nolathane speak) bushes in my VZ SV6. (103,000KMs). After my last wheel alignment, my mechanic advised me that my original oil filled front bushes were aged, and would be in need of replacement before the next wheel alignment.
I decided to bite the bullet and replace the oil filled Holden bushes with a Nolathane Caster shim kit #48166, and replace the lower control arm, (LCA), rubber bushes with genuine factory bushes. I was wary of going too firm on the front end, so did not fit the Nolathane kit #48019.
The excess thread past the Nyloc nuts on the Z Bar was the first problem. There was about 18mm on the driver's side and 23mm on the passenger side. I had to buy in a long reach socket (15/16" 3" long) to be able to undo the Nyloc nuts without mangling them. Didn't have a large ring spanner. Needed the socket to torque the final settings. (148Nm).
Removing the original driver's side bush raised a clearance problem. I used an F-Clamp to hook into the chassis and then gently pull the lower control arm back so that I got clearance to remove the oil filled bush. Only needed about 4-6mm. Some contributors have lifted the radiator up and disturbed transmission oil lines etc. The F-Clamp worked OK for me. Tighten the 4 flange nuts to 23Nm. They are known to shear when over tightened, and the job to remove the broken stud is tedious and time consuming.
I cut away the front rubber flange on the control arm bushes, tried to hammer the old bush out. Ended up using a G-Clamp with various sockets to push the old bush out towards the rear of the car. When about half way out I was able to hammer the bush clear. The passenger side bush was looser than the driver's side bush. It appears that badly worn bushes hammer out fairly easily.
I installed the new bushes from the steering rack side of the LCA, using soapy water and a long 12mm hex bolt with about 40 flat washers, and selected sockets, to slowly set the rubber bush in place. I used the Holden flanged nut which "sockets" into the rubber bush to centre the bush as I pressed it into place. (Tighten to 103Nm when finished).
I followed my mechanic's advice about the various configurations of the shims to best suit my car. Front suspension is all original FE2 springs, struts, bushes, bearings etc. Followed the Nolathane instructions which left a bit to be desired for clarity. I have made a sheet up showing the shim locations for my installation and attached some photos. The lubrication rule is to grease any Nolathane surface coming in contact with metal. Had the wheel alignment done. He didn't have to reconfigure the shims during the wheel alignment. Toe out was present as the new bushes had brought the LCAs forward.
I had tried watching the front end dive and bounce back under braking. There was some movement within the wheel arch. The original oil filled bushes seemed intact. I drilled holes in them and was able to get oil from both. I presume the oil filled rubber chamber/s were deteriorated, thus contributing to the front end geometry changes and suspension noise.
Overall, the car is quieter in the front end, there is no uncomfortable physical "feedback" or road-feel back to the steering wheel, steers more positively and feels balanced, turns into corners like it's on rails, (was about 1 rail before bush replacements), steering self centres smoothly after corners, does not drift much on roads with excess camber. (It needed a continuous trim pressure on the steering wheel to stay in the lanes on our SEQ road network). Motorway driving feels more stable. Braking is more precise, no bounce-back on stopping.
Taken all round, the car feels good.
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