A very mild sulfated battery may be rejuvenated according to sales blurbs because ”reguvenation” sounds great. It‘s primarily intended to get you to buy a their charger over someone else’s charger. Not all of what is said within their brochure is all true.
The truth of the matter is that lead acid battery chemistry dictates a slowly dying battery that accelerates degradation if open circuit charge falls below I think 12.2V. With a low state of charge, the plates develope what's called sulfation which is not always reversible. Some say soft sulfation can be reversed but battery chemistry seems to have a different view. Interestingly most would accept hard sulfation is non reversible. The longer soft sulfation occurs, the more it changes chemistry to a hard sulfstion layer. A hard sulfation layer coats the lead plates which means they can't be used to hold change which means the battery capacity reduces proportionally to the plate surface area that is sulfated. It’s just chemistry…
Battery capacity degrades over time even though the open circuit voltage may seem ok… This is why batteries must be load tested to determine what battery capacity is remaining…
There is no point in having an 80Ah battery installed (in a vehicle which requires an 80Ah battery) if the battery is sulfated and can only provide 40Ah of charge. In such instances, the battery may start the car but then will fall short as it’s voltage will drop below the required threshold for all the smarts in the car. That occurs because it doesn’t have the zoom to feed the various systems because an alternator can’t instantly charge the battery. Then your vehicle will start to see all sorts of problems because of the low SOC and low voltage during start..
Also keep in mind that DTC’s are a starting point for diagnosis and don’t explicitly identify a faulty component that needs replacing. That’s just a lazy parts cannon approach to diagnosis which is costly for car owners (but great for unscrupulous mechanics).
If you have suddenly seen lots of DTCs pop up, best to look at a wiring/system diagram and determine what is common between all those circuits. If they share an earth, or an ecu voltage, a wiring loom or such, expect something is wrong with the shared resource rather than individual sensors…
So take forum members advice over a sales brochure whose intent is to sell you some thing… Forum members don’t have a commercial interest in the solution
As a first step, load test your battery and if that’s ok then check common parts of the system (earths, wiring paths, common modules, etc)…
Don't place sales blurbs above the JC collective. You will be assimilated, resistance is futile