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WM statesman fault codes out of no where that wont clear. (any advice appreciated)
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StatesmanOwner
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yeah i know but the wiring had been damaged and plug clip was busted and you can trim them back because its length would be too short otherwise. cheaper and easier to get a one from the wreckers
StatesmanOwner
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Its just what the charger says
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With that many fault codes over such a wide variety of items id be looking for a bad ground connection. There is no way all of those codes are showing because of real failures. A bad earth will chuck up a whole bunch of random errors...such as you are experiencing. I've had this before. In my case the earth to the inner guard/negative remote post wasn't contacting properly. Cleaned and tightened and viola... no more error codes.
VF2R
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Oh and btw...a fully charged car battery under no load is 12.8 volts. If its just reading 12 then its basically flat. Less than 12 and its pretty much buggered..I used to build housebus solar setups 
Fu Manchu
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The battery or the charge circuit is the first place to be looking.
A fkd battery is a fkd battery and having a charger that has “magic wand” mode isn’t going to change it.
Great advise on the earths. Go through and check them all. Undo them (with the negative terminal removed from the battery) and clean them and retighten them. That costs some of your time and that is all.
When there’s not enough voltage to go around, the ECM uses switched earths to ration the voltage elsewhere.
As mentioned earlier, get the battery load tested. Have the charge circuit checked. Those two things are super easy to have done. Road side assist can do it. Battery world can load test the battery. An auto elec can check the charge circuit.
There’s a heap of solid advise so far but it’s like theres a bit of answer shopping happening.
A fkd battery is a fkd battery and having a charger that has “magic wand” mode isn’t going to change it.
Great advise on the earths. Go through and check them all. Undo them (with the negative terminal removed from the battery) and clean them and retighten them. That costs some of your time and that is all.
When there’s not enough voltage to go around, the ECM uses switched earths to ration the voltage elsewhere.
As mentioned earlier, get the battery load tested. Have the charge circuit checked. Those two things are super easy to have done. Road side assist can do it. Battery world can load test the battery. An auto elec can check the charge circuit.
There’s a heap of solid advise so far but it’s like theres a bit of answer shopping happening.
StatesmanOwner
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thanks for the help yeah my next step was to be to take it to battery world to get it tested. because it was in the car for 2 years apparently just sitting there not being used
lmoengnr
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Sitting idle for a couple of years will sulphate the battery, and no charger can fix that...
Skylarking
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A very mild sulfated battery may be rejuvenated according to sales blurbs because ”reguvenation” sounds great. It‘s primarily intended to get you to buy a their charger over someone else’s charger. Not all of what is said within their brochure is all true.
The truth of the matter is that lead acid battery chemistry dictates a slowly dying battery that accelerates degradation if open circuit charge falls below I think 12.2V. With a low state of charge, the plates develope what's called sulfation which is not always reversible. Some say soft sulfation can be reversed but battery chemistry seems to have a different view. Interestingly most would accept hard sulfation is non reversible. The longer soft sulfation occurs, the more it changes chemistry to a hard sulfstion layer. A hard sulfation layer coats the lead plates which means they can't be used to hold change which means the battery capacity reduces proportionally to the plate surface area that is sulfated. It’s just chemistry…
Battery capacity degrades over time even though the open circuit voltage may seem ok… This is why batteries must be load tested to determine what battery capacity is remaining…
There is no point in having an 80Ah battery installed (in a vehicle which requires an 80Ah battery) if the battery is sulfated and can only provide 40Ah of charge. In such instances, the battery may start the car but then will fall short as it’s voltage will drop below the required threshold for all the smarts in the car. That occurs because it doesn’t have the zoom to feed the various systems because an alternator can’t instantly charge the battery. Then your vehicle will start to see all sorts of problems because of the low SOC and low voltage during start..
Also keep in mind that DTC’s are a starting point for diagnosis and don’t explicitly identify a faulty component that needs replacing. That’s just a lazy parts cannon approach to diagnosis which is costly for car owners (but great for unscrupulous mechanics).
If you have suddenly seen lots of DTCs pop up, best to look at a wiring/system diagram and determine what is common between all those circuits. If they share an earth, or an ecu voltage, a wiring loom or such, expect something is wrong with the shared resource rather than individual sensors…
So take forum members advice over a sales brochure whose intent is to sell you some thing… Forum members don’t have a commercial interest in the solution As a first step, load test your battery and if that’s ok then check common parts of the system (earths, wiring paths, common modules, etc)…
Don't place sales blurbs above the JC collective. You will be assimilated, resistance is futile
The truth of the matter is that lead acid battery chemistry dictates a slowly dying battery that accelerates degradation if open circuit charge falls below I think 12.2V. With a low state of charge, the plates develope what's called sulfation which is not always reversible. Some say soft sulfation can be reversed but battery chemistry seems to have a different view. Interestingly most would accept hard sulfation is non reversible. The longer soft sulfation occurs, the more it changes chemistry to a hard sulfstion layer. A hard sulfation layer coats the lead plates which means they can't be used to hold change which means the battery capacity reduces proportionally to the plate surface area that is sulfated. It’s just chemistry…
Battery capacity degrades over time even though the open circuit voltage may seem ok… This is why batteries must be load tested to determine what battery capacity is remaining…
There is no point in having an 80Ah battery installed (in a vehicle which requires an 80Ah battery) if the battery is sulfated and can only provide 40Ah of charge. In such instances, the battery may start the car but then will fall short as it’s voltage will drop below the required threshold for all the smarts in the car. That occurs because it doesn’t have the zoom to feed the various systems because an alternator can’t instantly charge the battery. Then your vehicle will start to see all sorts of problems because of the low SOC and low voltage during start..
Also keep in mind that DTC’s are a starting point for diagnosis and don’t explicitly identify a faulty component that needs replacing. That’s just a lazy parts cannon approach to diagnosis which is costly for car owners (but great for unscrupulous mechanics).
If you have suddenly seen lots of DTCs pop up, best to look at a wiring/system diagram and determine what is common between all those circuits. If they share an earth, or an ecu voltage, a wiring loom or such, expect something is wrong with the shared resource rather than individual sensors…
So take forum members advice over a sales brochure whose intent is to sell you some thing… Forum members don’t have a commercial interest in the solution
As a first step, load test your battery and if that’s ok then check common parts of the system (earths, wiring paths, common modules, etc)…Don't place sales blurbs above the JC collective. You will be assimilated, resistance is futile
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