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Once the handle is correctly assembled, the clip slides in length ways, and hold all the parts together. There is two small holes which it passes through. Check out the images on this eBay listing - https://www.ebay.com.au/p/2006656718

Variable Assistance Power Steering. The steering rack plugs into that connector.

I use the standard VS Pacemakers on my L67 in a VS Calais with variatronic steering. Also has a full bellhousing - T56 and adapter plate - and it all fits with some clearancing of the bellhousing. Have also had a T5 and a VT auto in a similar setup, they both required clearancing of the...

Brace across the tunnel, under the vehicle. Bolts on just behind the transmission mount.

All the diagrams I have, show the same setup for any VS, V6 and V8. Fuse 9 powers reverse light circuit, evap purge solenoid, oxygen sensor heaters, plus an ignition connection to the PCM.

I'd splice straight into rear demister power feed. I can't guarantee it is the same right this minute without a wiring diagram, but I know for certain in a VF, there is no difference in the circuit, besides an extra power feed to each mirror. They are fed off of a relay anyway, the BCM only...

If it is just stock, you won't have power there, but it may be connected to reverse lights. You will more than likely need to run a dedicated supply from the battery.

You cannot replace the whole assembly easily, it is part of the radiator support assembly. Mine has excess wear and causes the spring to get stuck if it goes too far. Ends up with a stiff bonnet release lever, is almost impossible to open. I haven't had an issue again lately, it seems to be...

Possibly a faulty hazard switch. Click it a few times, and make sure it coming back out all the way. If you have the means of doing so, check you have an ignition feed to the flasher unit while the ignition is on. If not, its a good bet the hazard switch is faulty.

I did not use them, but this has definitely given me the push to look at it again! Good to hear yours went well too.

Don't have a diagram in front of me right now, but I'm 99% sure there will not be any wires you can connect to for either of those functions. It is all communicated digitally over the CAN-Bus between modules.

Two black wires are ground, purple is fuel pump positive, and cream is fuel gauge

I've been running VZ trailing arms in my VS now for a while with no issues. Only issues I ran into was driveshaft length, which was sorted with spacers; and the handbrake cable not been long enough, which was sorted by moving one of the front cable brackets. I did it to have the later model...

The main issue is the aluminium fittings corrode, and will fall apart as soon as you put a spanner on them. I'd be getting a new condenser and liquid line fitted as well, cause it is pretty much guaranteed to fall apart.

There is a number of things that can stop the compressor from engaging. Faulty ambient air temp sensor, faulty evaporator temp sensor, faulty pressure sensor. Next point of call would be to connect a scan tool and check error codes and live data for anything out of the ordinary.

I'd be checking body earths around the front end. Smash repairers are notorious for putting earths back onto fresh paint, where they make no contact. The main one to check is just to the side of the battery.

If you are confident the problem is there, I'd just be replacing the connector with a new one. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Connector-Set-For-Holden-Commodore-VS-VT-I-VT-II-VU-Ute-VX-Ignition-Module-/121297601673

So Getrag gearbox? Both speed sensors have the same output, so should just be a matter of plugging it in. May need a speedo corrector, but can't confirm that. Engine light wiring shouldn't change?

100% it won't work. The separate cruise control switch is another level of safety, if the main brake switch fails. Both need to be operating correctly for cruise control to engage, and this includes the complete brake light circuit. A single load resistor, in parallel with a brake lamp globe...

You'll find it shares a fuse with other circuits. If you're chasing a problem, check every fuse. No point looking aimlessly for the one fuse, when you don't know how the circuit is setup. If all the fuses are ok, do you have power to the relay, and is the relay switching on?

Did it happen around the same time as using your wipers? Used to be pretty common for the wiper motor to fall apart. Indicators and wipers are on the same fuse.

The lock for a hard lid patches into the fuel lid lock anyway Not sure where the pickup is for interior light though, unsure if it battery, ignition and maybe park lights?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for half an hour? I've had this same issue with a VE after body repairs, and found other cases where disconnecting the battery fixed the issue.

Are you sure you weren't looking at bank 2, sensor 2? A post cat o2 sensor won't really move much, except under acceleration and deceleration.

I'd be checking the connector on the LH side of the dash, above the ECU. This is a commonly missed connector when refitting and engine and harness, and it may have worked its way loose. It is through this connector that the engine light and diagnostic connector are connected to the ECU...

In the fuse box beneath the column. The noise you hear when the indicators are operated comes directly from the operation of the contacts.

Any scan tool should tell you that. It has been a PID in every scan tool I've used

Anything but R134a is for people that try to cut corners. There is definitely no OEM's using LPG in automotive AC system either, thats for sure.

R134a. You can buy the gauges all you want, but the gas is a restricted product, you must be licenced to purchase it.

has it been tuned? if so, disconnect the battery, then reconnect it again. turn key to on for 1 minute, then off for a minute. do this another 2 times. i have to do this with mine whenever the battery has been disconnected.

I've done it in mine, with turquoise LEDs in a custom holder. Wired to the rest of the interior lighting, it dims and turns off at the same rate as the door handle lighting. from memory, positive is a yellow wire going into the door harness.

no problems at all! your description of the issue made it a pretty simple one!

it sounds like it might just be a coincidence that this has happened now. from what you are saying, i would be checking the main earth between battery and the engine. sounds like the engine was trying to earth back through the small ECU earths.

You will have a single filament globe in one of the stop/tail lamp holders.

The correct way to do it is having the switch in the high beam switching wire, but if your switch is rated to the current of the lightbar, there is technically no issues.

If you have very low fuel, and SVS warnings, it sounds like a faulty ECU. Pretty common fault with VZ V6's.

Does the handbrake light also stay on?

Are you sure you are not getting confused with VX Series 2, which they do definitely not fit? I had a look at some eBay listings, and didn't find any that mentioned not fitting Series 2 VS. Another thing you can do, is go to a wrecker, and get the later model VX-VZ switch and wiring...

depending on how you are testing the fuses, you were probably seeing the backfeed voltage on the blown fuse, making it test 'ok'

I can just about guarantee you they are the same all the way from VR to VX Series 2. There is no difference, they all have generic GM part number on them. If you want, I'll even check part number between a VS Series 1 and VS Series 2 unit.